What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (76 Viewers)

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I towed mine (approx same weight) from Cincinnati to Newport News, VA. not too long ago. AHC went into "lo" most of the trip.. Sometimes after topping off with fuel I would restart the truck and it would hold it in "N", other times "lo". I am gathering parts slowly to add spacers in the rear and the air lift bags. Overall though it tows great and has very predictable road manners with the WD setup.
 
taco47001 said:
I towed mine (approx same weight) from Cincinnati to Newport News, VA. not too long ago. AHC went into "lo" most of the trip.. Sometimes after topping off with fuel I would restart the truck and it would hold it in "N", other times "lo". I am gathering parts slowly to add spacers in the rear and the air lift bags. Overall though it tows great and has very predictable road manners with the WD setup.
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I have had the same experience in the past (AHC dropping to low) without air bags and heavy loads. Many here claim no problem, I can only imagine what there AHC pressures are.:eek: I have good AHC readings using air bags and will continue to play the safe card and use them.

I do agree 100% WD set up, even though the trailer is heavier than my boat I liked the way it went down the road.:)
 
CatskillsRunner said:
Since I never talk about mods and I recently shared this with a friend, I figure I should share it here too.

The switches are not the ones I wanted. I have some sitting on my office floor which are so dreamy and Land Cruiseresque but my husband was worried about how they would look mounted. The ones he used ended up looking really clean and I like the fact that you don't notice them at all in the driver's seat. They control the front floods and spots, and rear floods. I wanted them where the ashtray was located, so my husband fabbed up a piece of metal, painted it, and placed the switches there. There is a ton of room behind that ashtray and I'm sure I'm not the first one to come up with the idea to put switches there.

Then, we put CBs in the same place in both LCs. I had a big box connected to the one I had in my 4R and it took up a lot of room. I've gotten a little snotty about how well things mesh with my LC and while I love modding it I still want the interior to look beautiful. I think this cb works well in that capacity.

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looks good!
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Continued testing the capabilities of AHC and the vehicle itself. Estimated 750 - 800 lbs of tongue weight with a trailer weight 6500 - 7000lbs.
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Good looking combo- but man, that is a lot of trailer for your hundy. Anti sway bars? Does that thing wag your truck around?
 
RyanStl said:
Cool to see the front sway bar removed like that. I just ordered new bushings from Amazon (AC Delco). My passenger side sway bar link broke, so I'm waiting for that part to come in. I kept hearing a donk sound when turning left and found the link bolt sheered.
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This is the rear sway bar that is removed. The only bushings that I had to replace on the front were the ones that mounted to the frame. Because of this I did not see it necessary to completely remove it. I have heard people say you can't remove the front one without removing the torsion bars but I believe that is BS. I may not have removed it but I did took a long look at everything and thought through all the different ways it could be twisted and I could definitely remove it without touching the TB's. The rear was removed because I saw the rust and decided to wire wheel and paint it. Plus, since I was replacing everything except for the bar itself and bracket mounts it was much easier to just drop the whole assembly.
 
abuck99 said:
Good looking combo- but man, that is a lot of trailer for your hundy. Anti sway bars? Does that thing wag your truck around?
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Too much trailer for a 100 IMO especially without trailer brakes:eek: I just was moving it

Surprisingly it towed nicer than my boat but it will not be towed with the LX470 in the future, a one time stupid tow.:hillbilly:
 
TheForger said:
This is the rear sway bar that is removed. The only bushings that I had to replace on the front were the ones that mounted to the frame. Because of this I did not see it necessary to completely remove it. I have heard people say you can't remove the front one without removing the torsion bars but I believe that is BS. I may not have removed it but I did took a long look at everything and thought through all the different ways it could be twisted and I could definitely remove it without touching the TB's. The rear was removed because I saw the rust and decided to wire wheel and paint it. Plus, since I was replacing everything except for the bar itself and bracket mounts it was much easier to just drop the whole assembly.
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I completely refurbish my front sway bar and then while I was doing to rear I decided to just leave it off. It feels a little sloppy but the rear is definitely more compliant feeling off-road. I'm actually thinking about pulling the front bar and trying without it also. Probably have to drive slower everywhere else but it's not a fast truck anyways.
 
Went to change my front brake pads only to find out I had the wrong pads:( Not to waste time I did some Jack Adapter testing. With the LX470 lifted by the diff drop it is as solid as my floor jack. With some stands under for safety I tried to get the jack to move, no way. I would not lift my cruiser at these points without it, looking at the pics I think you can agree. The head is slightly larger than the jack post so it can pivot and conform while the jack remain straight.

Simple to make if you have the skills, tools, and time. If not send me a PM and I can help.

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I "Bodywork" my first car part in about two decades and it came out more than okay, no bondo at all, just a house hold hammer and a Urethane industrial wheel with a steel core, no dents, no bumps, work great

Well the cheap rattle can white paint does not match at all but is okay for now....



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Did the AHC service using the 1 can method by @PADDO (linked below)
In the past I used the FSM method and I find the PADDO method easier, faster, and felt really good about the results.

Added note: If you have done the sensor mod you need to pay closer attention so you have enough. When the wife was not looking I stole a ML measuring cup and it worked out fine. Thanks PADDO for posting a nice and faster method.

AHC Fluid Change How To -- Need Input
 
I did the timing belt and water pump. The previous owner did the t-belt but not the pump at 95k miles. I just rolled over 200k. Thanks the the FAQ's and Mud it really was a one banana job, just really long.

I started at 5:30am and finished at 11:00pm. I can probably knock out another in 4 hours next time, but I was obsessive about labeling, cleaning, and learning techniques. The hardest parts were actually getting the fan clutch off, pulling the crank pulley without a tool, the two bolts on the sides of the fan bracket. I reached those from above the oil filter, but it was definitely a learning process.

The VVTI cams spun a few degrees on me when my clamps slipped and I definitely puckered a little when I started her back up, but meticulous labeling and care installing the belt got me through. I replaced every tensioner and pulley as well for less than $550 in OEM parts.
 
repacked the wheel bearing on the wifey cruiser. he driver side nut was crazy loose....last noted people that worked on it was downtown toyota in spokane. replaced the inner seal and reinstalled. the passengers side was loose also but not as loose.
this also solved the weird pushing brake pedal issue
 
I got my cargo area 12 volt system wired in, and the LED spot lights in the lift gate. I went with the "warm white" LED's due to their similarity to incandescent lights. And it's a great amount of light! I also fabricated a simple panel to hold the 12 volt charging ports. (usb and the standard type), and a volt meter. I wired in a momentary switch so the meter only comes on when I need it. It all came out very clean!

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Kind of busy this weekend:

Installed my Metal Tech Sliders- I had been waiting for months to get availability of them and they finally had a set come available from an order that didn't get paid for. Lucky me. They aren't making them regularly for the 100 anymore, and I think they are going to be redesigned. So these might have been the last ones of the current design.

Finally got around to installing my rear coil springs and finishing my lift. Ironman Toy13B (0-200kg additional weight). They were approximately the same length as the factory springs but- they sure didn't let the back end compress much. No doubt they yield at bit over 2" of lift, since I couldn't get out of my garage- lol- I had to remove my rhino cross bars from the factory rails, and even then I only had a few mm of clearance.

While underneath there, I also replaced the sway bar links with Mana-Fee extended 80 series links, and replaced the sway bar bushings as well. It was all going well until one of the bolts holding the bushing brakes froze, and then snapped. That took another 30min to drill that out and clean up the threads. Back end sure handles differently with new springs & sway bushes.

Picked up some Metaltech upper & lower links, and a whitline adjustable pan hard while they were on sale, and waiting to install next time I have a day to spend crawling under the truck. Ready for rear bumper & drawers to settle that back end down.
 
@Haring Bagsik looks sharp.

Paint the whole thing? Or trouble spots? Or what?
 
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