Fixed my hard to shift transfer case shifter. Pulled the shifter, cleaned and lubed the shaft.
So much smoother now, amazed how easy it shifts.
So much smoother now, amazed how easy it shifts.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (37 Viewers)
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What type of lube is best used here? I hadn't really thought about it but mine is kind of hard to shift too.
I’m not sure what’s “best” I polished mine and put a film of moly grease on it.
@Coin @RuskiE39 @MechE30
On my 2000, install was not bad. Like 2-3 hours! Much easier than the “can’t be done with the rack in the vehicle” crowd would lead you to believe.
Hit this thread (particularly page 2):
Replace steering rack bushings question
Jim, I can give you some pointers on the install for 98-02 model years... I used Whiteline bushings and do recommend them. I did not remove the rack but swapped out the bushings on the vehicle. The large one is relatively easy, no explanation needed. I suggest removing it first, then work on...
forum.ih8mud.com
Lessons learned:
-Some of the wrench/hand angles are pretty tough, flex head wrenches/ratchets would help but I managed with normal wrenches, and 3/8” and 1/2” universals for my ratchets and sockets.
- The rear bolt on the passenger side is easy to get from the top with a bunch of extensions and one 3/8” universal joint.
- Remove the passenger side first.
- On the drivers side, remove the front bolt, but just loosen the rear enough to get some movement out of the rack.
- Then just displace the rack slightly so that the edge of the inner sleeve lines up with the bolt hole. Then knock the bushings out with a large screwdriver - or punch - and hammer. Mine literally popped out with 3hits. Way easier than any bushing I’ve ever worked with.
- There is no metal sleeve around the bushing to cut/press, just rubber.
- Only tricky part: (possibly unique to my cruiser) On reassembly, I discovered that my passenger mount was not square with the bolt holes -spread too wide- and the bolts wouldn’t line up. After lots of sweating and finger pressing, attempting to use a clamp, etc, and of course some general grumpiness, I just grabbed my floor Jack and pressed it against the frame to bend it a bit…. That worked.
- I did not need to lift the engine.
- 74lb/ft torque on the bolts.
#1- Just get under there, get your hands dirty, and figure it out, it’s easier than you think!
@RuskiE39
It’d be easy to do them at the same time as the front diff bushings, having those out would clear up a little space for your hands.
I used these ($24).
Limited-time deal: Nolathane REV190.0044 Black Steering Rack and Pinion Bushing (Front) Amazon product ASIN B06XXYS3D5
After a couple days of drive time I can say that it is an outstanding fix to the sloppy steering I had, and while there is some additional road feel transmitted through the wheel, I note no additional noise or harshness. (Though I have no basis for comparison with anything other than the originals in my rig)
Yes, I would prefer a fresh OEM rack, with fresh OEM bushings… but that’s not $24!
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Long weekend and a lot of work!
I finally decided to finish the sound deadening/stereo upgrade that I started a few months ago.
I had already replaced the radio with a Carplay unit years ago when I first bought it.
Fast forward to 6 months ago, I was given a bunch of sound deadening materials in exchange for my helping him swap CV's on his 4th gen runner. I also ended up ordering a set of JBL components, which I slapped in and called it done.
This weekend, I decided that I was going to do it all. I had grown sick of the road noise and was not happy with the components I had put in.
Started with the rear cargo area. Used butyl tiles, about (75% coverage) with 100% coverage of closed cell foam tiles over that. I also did the cargo areas, behind the subwoofer and around the rear AC. I also replaced the two stock 4" subwoofers with Dayton Audio drop in replacements, I'll get to that later.
(sorry for the s*** pics, some of them were take at night, absolutely none of them were made a priority)
Next I moved on to the doors. I went with Morel Maximo 6.5" components in the front, Morel Maximo Ultra 6.5" coax in the back.
On the front doors, I did butyl tiles, again 75% coverage, with two large CCF tiles on each doorskin. I also used butyl tiles to "seal the inner door. Then did a layer of CCF, adhered to mass loaded vinyl in-between the door and its panel.
On the rear doors, I did the same, minus the liner between door and panel.
To test everything out, I gave it a good solid 45 minute drive through the city and spent a good amount of time on the highway. I was pretty happy with the sound deadening. My tires are loud, that will make a big difference when I finally replace them. The speakers sounded fantastic, however, I was disappointed in the bass. I hopped on FB marketplace, found this JL 10" enclosure with built in amp, picked it up and installed it. Made such a world of difference.
It's not a "quiet" vehicle, to todays standards, but it's 20 years old. I'm happy with the results. I'll probably start thinking about lighting it on fire again before too long as the remaining squeaks will probably drive me crazy (mostly just a rattle in the dash and the back seat squeaking).
This project is no joke though. I spent a lot of money and a whole lot of time, at least 48 hours. As it always goes, I could do it faster if I were to do it again, but I hope to never do this again.
I finally decided to finish the sound deadening/stereo upgrade that I started a few months ago.
I had already replaced the radio with a Carplay unit years ago when I first bought it.
Fast forward to 6 months ago, I was given a bunch of sound deadening materials in exchange for my helping him swap CV's on his 4th gen runner. I also ended up ordering a set of JBL components, which I slapped in and called it done.
This weekend, I decided that I was going to do it all. I had grown sick of the road noise and was not happy with the components I had put in.
Started with the rear cargo area. Used butyl tiles, about (75% coverage) with 100% coverage of closed cell foam tiles over that. I also did the cargo areas, behind the subwoofer and around the rear AC. I also replaced the two stock 4" subwoofers with Dayton Audio drop in replacements, I'll get to that later.
(sorry for the s*** pics, some of them were take at night, absolutely none of them were made a priority)
Next I moved on to the doors. I went with Morel Maximo 6.5" components in the front, Morel Maximo Ultra 6.5" coax in the back.
On the front doors, I did butyl tiles, again 75% coverage, with two large CCF tiles on each doorskin. I also used butyl tiles to "seal the inner door. Then did a layer of CCF, adhered to mass loaded vinyl in-between the door and its panel.
On the rear doors, I did the same, minus the liner between door and panel.
To test everything out, I gave it a good solid 45 minute drive through the city and spent a good amount of time on the highway. I was pretty happy with the sound deadening. My tires are loud, that will make a big difference when I finally replace them. The speakers sounded fantastic, however, I was disappointed in the bass. I hopped on FB marketplace, found this JL 10" enclosure with built in amp, picked it up and installed it. Made such a world of difference.
It's not a "quiet" vehicle, to todays standards, but it's 20 years old. I'm happy with the results. I'll probably start thinking about lighting it on fire again before too long as the remaining squeaks will probably drive me crazy (mostly just a rattle in the dash and the back seat squeaking).
This project is no joke though. I spent a lot of money and a whole lot of time, at least 48 hours. As it always goes, I could do it faster if I were to do it again, but I hope to never do this again.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Well, I didn't get new tires today. Ordered 285 KO2's on a deal from Costco, went to the install appointment today and they refused install. Apparently they've had a long standing policy that they won't go over 3% either way from OEM size. 275 to 285 is just over 5% according to their calculator. This is despite the fact that the truck currently has 285 Revo's on it that they installed, as well as the KO2's (285's also) the set before that. Counter guy said it's ultimately tire manager discretion. Going to call around to the other 2 Costco's in town to see if they have different discretion, but bummed if they won't, Costco's road hazard warranty was excellent.
I have had always get Discount Tire to match Costco's price and include the road hazard warranty. DT has been excellent in their service and usually doesn't raise a stink abt slightly larger tires.
I know it's a pain, but I've heard of folks taking in only the tires, off the vehicle, to have mounted and balanced. What they don't know won't hurt them.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
^ yeah, that's actually plan B
Changed passenger side CV axle, swapped out the sway bar end link. The CV took me forever- I just couldn't get it all lined up to come out clean to start with (that axle completely came apart when I started removing it, so it was... well past time), and was sort of figuring it out as I went. After being covered in grease so long and just tired of fooling with it, I knuckled under and took it to the shop for the other side, plus tie rod ends and an alignment, AND (turns out) my driveline vibration was a bad U-joint, maybe two. They called with the "can we do this too" and I said "yeah just make it right." Picking it up this afternoon- looking forward to having a correctly functioning truck again and mmmmaybe getting back to the fun parts- driving it, slowly adding fun stuff.
To do list still, though:
Gosh it never ends.
To do list still, though:
- AHC refresh (have the globes and fluid, just need to do)
- Heater tees
- Potentially drive flanges, but I'll only do those if the clunk hasn't been resolved. OEM looked/ felt OK, even at 230k. Otherwise I'll hold those for a later day.
- Wheel spacers to fit the 200-series LC wheels I have and then... tires.
- Oh and a little body/ paintwork.
Gosh it never ends.
Looking sharp! Any rubbing?Finally got around to mounting the Rays on the Cruiser, wrapped in some Cooper STT Pro 285s..still deciding what lift to go with
View attachment 2899359
Got around to changing out my cabin air filters today, noticed that the last person touching this area did NOT put a screw back into the black trim that holds the airbag connector, that's mildly annoying. Then noticed why my glovebox was not aligned as well as it should (left side sagged a bit). The person that lost the screw just tapped a new hole SMH, I realigned it and the gap is a lot better up top now.
Not as dirty as I had expected but compared to the brand new WHITE filters this thing looks nasty.
Not as dirty as I had expected but compared to the brand new WHITE filters this thing looks nasty.
Thanks! Only on sharp turns but it’s been pretty manageable for now. And as long as I don’t hit hard dips
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Installed the hover mod.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Must be nice on the washboard
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How do you like that floor jack? Been needing a new one and the Harbor Freights looks pretty enticing. Is yours the 3T long reach model?
I have the same jack, it’s a few Years old and has lifted stuff it shouldn’t have been lifting. Still works great.
I just bought one (3T long reach) a few weeks ago, after finding that (duh) a jack that's good for an S2000 not as great on a 4x4 SUV.
Does what it says, has the right amount of lift, stays up/ doesn't leak down. Worth the $$$.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Jack has been good, replaced an older style HF jack that was leaking. I got it on a coupon, which they only do coupons for those a few times a year. And last I looked, they've really shot up in price, think I paid about $100, looks like they're $170 now.
Oh, and end results of Costo. They begrudgingly mounted them off truck, when I went to pick them up the manager conceded defeat, told me to bring the truck by so they could verify torque and no rubbing and they'd honor the full warranty.
Oh, and end results of Costo. They begrudgingly mounted them off truck, when I went to pick them up the manager conceded defeat, told me to bring the truck by so they could verify torque and no rubbing and they'd honor the full warranty.
