What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)

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Jack has been good, replaced an older style HF jack that was leaking. I got it on a coupon, which they only do coupons for those a few times a year. And last I looked, they've really shot up in price, think I paid about $100, looks like they're $170 now.

Oh, and end results of Costo. They begrudgingly mounted them off truck, when I went to pick them up the manager conceded defeat, told me to bring the truck by so they could verify torque and no rubbing and they'd honor the full warranty.


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Bravo with Costco! What was your final method of success?
 
Another milestone passed. Success was assured due to my new @yotamd key!
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Going to tackle the front speakers today/tomorrow

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Driver's side was in pretty bad shape (understatement), passenger side was intact.
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Then as I was buttoning up the door panel I noticed something odd when i was cleaning up the panel. TIRE WEIGHTS!!!! What the actual f did they think that would help solve? Throw out your guesses.
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I'm going to let it cure overnight before I crank up the volume. Good times to be had
 
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Threw on some new Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 in 285/75/16. I was coming from the A/T G013’s which were excellent tires and I actually ran through 3 sets, I just really wanted a M/T and 33’s (or 32.8” if you want to be technical). Plus Discount Tire price matched them at $220/ea which was awesome. Love them so far!

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Threw on some new Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 in 285/75/16. I was coming from the A/T G013’s which were excellent tires and I actually ran through 3 sets, I just really wanted a M/T and 33’s (or 32.8” if you want to be technical). Plus Discount Tire price matched them at $220/ea which was awesome. Love them so far!

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They look great. That's a smoking good deal.
 
Somebody talk me out of selling my Nitro 4.88 regear kit.

I feel like the $1600 could be better used elsewhere, and after just tackling a regear job with a buddy I don’t know that I want to go through that again. I think I’d rather rebuild an engine than have to regear again. I know there’s a market for gears right now so selling probably won’t be an issue.

Which leaves me with 3 options really. I could sell the regear kit and just install the lockers, which I know I can do myself after having just done that job. I could try to save enough to pay someone to set up the gears (it’s so hard with gas prices and 12 mpg if I’m lucky, I don’t really make that much $) and do everything else myself to make it as cheap as possible. Or I could just do the regear myself.

Honestly the third option I don’t really even want to entertain, such a PITA.

FWIW I have 33s now but will likely upgrade to 35s in the next year or 2, when these ones wear out. Which would be painful with stock gearing. Doing nothing isn’t an option, I need to upgrade my weak front diff that owes me nothing at this point, given all it’s been through. I feel like at nearing 400k it’s on borrowed time. And if you’re going to install lockers, might as well regear while in there if you plan to go to 35s. Already have the adjustable UCAs...

Did I just talk myself out of selling it?

Ok, good talk.
 
Somebody talk me out of selling my Nitro 4.88 regear kit.

I feel like the $1600 could be better used elsewhere, and after just tackling a regear job with a buddy I don’t know that I want to go through that again. I think I’d rather rebuild an engine than have to regear again. I know there’s a market for gears right now so selling probably won’t be an issue.

Which leaves me with 3 options really. I could sell the regear kit and just install the lockers, which I know I can do myself after having just done that job. I could try to save enough to pay someone to set up the gears (it’s so hard with gas prices and 12 mpg if I’m lucky, I don’t really make that much $) and do everything else myself to make it as cheap as possible. Or I could just do the regear myself.

Honestly the third option I don’t really even want to entertain, such a PITA.

FWIW I have 33s now but will likely upgrade to 35s in the next year or 2, when these ones wear out. Which would be painful with stock gearing. Doing nothing isn’t an option, I need to upgrade my weak front diff that owes me nothing at this point, given all it’s been through. I feel like at nearing 400k it’s on borrowed time. And if you’re going to install lockers, might as well regear while in there if you plan to go to 35s. Already have the adjustable UCAs...

Did I just talk myself out of selling it?

Ok, good talk.
Are you regearing because you are currently experiencing a lack of power on hills or because you would like to go to 35" at some point in the future and feel that is a necessary combination?
 
Are you regearing because you are currently experiencing a lack of power on hills or because you would like to go to 35" at some point in the future and feel that is a necessary combination?

My thought was that with 35s, the stock 4.3 gearing would be unbearable (based entirely on others opinions on this forum and elsewhere). It’s noticeable with 33s, especially in the mountains around here. Can’t imagine how bad it would be with larger tires. Was hoping to improve mpg as well, but the jury seems like it may still be out on that one.

Either way, with 35s an inevitability it just felt like the best course of action. It’s a daily driver, and I tend to take it to the east coast and back annually, definitely more of an overland adventure truck than a trail rig.

The other thought was my gears are nearing 400k and 23 years old. Maybe they’ll make it another 400k, maybe not. Might be an unfounded concern though, these trucks are overbuilt that’s for sure. Well, maybe not the heater T’s...
 
New Toyota AHC Coils
Ironman 30mm spacers
Replaced broken FL AHC height sensor linkage.
Adjusted torsion bars
Pressures in check. Feels good.

Rear shocks still need to be replaced though ☠️

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View attachment 2561918Picked up a set of Dick Cepek Trail Country EXP'S for $170 a piece and had them installed Wednesday. My KO2'S were ready to be changed out after about 50k. So far I really like them. Much beefer tread than the KO's and more aggressive looking. Definitely a little louder but nothing crazy. I'll be interested in seeing how the hold up over the next few years but happy today! Apologies for the dirty rims...
Wondering how these have done for the past year (almost exactly!)?
 
My thought was that with 35s, the stock 4.3 gearing would be unbearable (based entirely on others opinions on this forum and elsewhere). It’s noticeable with 33s, especially in the mountains around here. Can’t imagine how bad it would be with larger tires. Was hoping to improve mpg as well, but the jury seems like it may still be out on that one.

Either way, with 35s an inevitability it just felt like the best course of action. It’s a daily driver, and I tend to take it to the east coast and back annually, definitely more of an overland adventure truck than a trail rig.

The other thought was my gears are nearing 400k and 23 years old. Maybe they’ll make it another 400k, maybe not. Might be an unfounded concern though, these trucks are overbuilt that’s for sure. Well, maybe not the heater T’s...
Regearing is my favorite mod on my 100 with the 4 speed transmission. It makes the drivibility a lot better with my 33's, it should feel like a stock 100 on 35's. You might want to buy someone's 4 pinion front who's bought a front locker for their 00-07 100.
 
I agree, but for the 5spd as well. Averaged a solid 12 on 4.30s and 35s (regeared once to get the OEM factory rear locker), now always 14+, and sometimes 16 (rare, but possible if you keep speeds down on long highway trips). 4.88s now.

Did it DIY—it's tedious the first time around, but nothing scary. ZUK has put so much info out there for free—read through enough of his installs, and you can start to anticipate the patterns you read.

I mean I'm pretty married to this particular truck now, but I don't think I'd ever consider lifting another truck without also regearing it at the same time. It's night and day.
 
Steering rack bushings came in today and loncky wheel cover coming in tomorrow so will be having an adventure packed weekend along with repairing some things on my BMW </3
 
My thought was that with 35s, the stock 4.3 gearing would be unbearable (based entirely on others opinions on this forum and elsewhere). It’s noticeable with 33s, especially in the mountains around here. Can’t imagine how bad it would be with larger tires. Was hoping to improve mpg as well, but the jury seems like it may still be out on that one.

Either way, with 35s an inevitability it just felt like the best course of action. It’s a daily driver, and I tend to take it to the east coast and back annually, definitely more of an overland adventure truck than a trail rig.

The other thought was my gears are nearing 400k and 23 years old. Maybe they’ll make it another 400k, maybe not. Might be an unfounded concern though, these trucks are overbuilt that’s for sure. Well, maybe not the heater T’s...
I found this gear ratio calculator to be interesting.

It's helping me come to terms with whether I should go with 40" tires that I need for off-roading versus keeping my 33" and driving on more reasonable trails.
Adding only 1" inch of ground clearance by going with 35" tires does little for my clearance problem.

Another "devil in the details" factor that I need to consider is with changing "rotating mass" where a lighter wheel and tire take less energy to accelerate (+/-), whereas the heavier wheel takes more energy. A large portion of my driving is on hills and curves. So I am constantly accelerating and braking.




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Steering rack bushings came in today and loncky wheel cover coming in tomorrow so will be having an adventure packed weekend along with repairing some things on my BMW </3
do not be surprised if you have to redo some sections, i did on the lower portion at 7 o'clock only because i didn't like the stitching
 
do not be surprised if you have to redo some sections, i did on the lower portion at 7 o'clock only because i didn't like the stitching
This is my experience too. I had to kind of learn how hard to pull on the thread as I was doing mine. It'll put up with a surprising amount of hauling on it (and actually takes some to get it tight), but if you go too hard and break the thread and/or pull out the provided eyelet/perforation, then you gotta go back, refigure, tie off, etc.

I'd probably do a substantially better job on my second one, but the first one cured the OEM steering wheel leprosy up pretty well and looks pretty OK, so it can stay.
 

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