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For your 2-3 hours for me probably doubleA few weeks ago I did the front diff bushings, this weekend I decided to knock out the steering rack bushings. Was not bad at all, maybe 2-3 hours.
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For your 2-3 hours for me probably double
Hah, I'd probably spend the first hour just cursing at it
For your 2-3 hours for me probably double
I chamfered the outer edge of the small bushings (only on the side the goes in first) and the made it super easy to get them started. Oh, and douse it with silicone to make it easier to slide it in.Lol! Yeah, when I first looked at it I was wondering how the heck I was going to get this done. Once you start putting your tools together and removing the lower engine covers it all starts to click and make sense.
I know there's quite a few "step by step explanations" out there on how to do this but they leave a lot to the imagination. The tie rod ends DON'T have to be removed and the OE bushings are NOT 2-piece like the aftermarket ones. They do get pressed out from the bottom using the floor jack / flat head trick.
I did struggle with the front top bushing getting pressed in cockeyed 3 times, 4th was the charm...
I also followed this explanation to the letter for pressing in the lower and top bushings (plus the metal sleeve).
(Press in the lower bushing > Press in the metal sleeve > Press in the top bushing)
If I didn't follow this, I probably would have spent another hour running around the garage looking for a long bolt, nut, and washers.
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SuperPro Polyurethane Bushings For LC 100 Series
We have been memebers of this forum for few years now. I would like to bring it to your attention the different bushings we carry for the Toyota 100 series. Just a little background on SuperPro. SuperPro polyurethane bushings are made in Australia and are being distributed in the USA by...forum.ih8mud.com
I had to do that to the front top bushing. It was getting pinched at the back for some reason.I chamfered the outer edge of the small bushings (only on the side the goes in first) and the made it super easy to get them started. Ih, and douse it silicone to make it easier to slide it in.
I’ve had the cold start tick ever since I bought my 03 LX three years ago, and always assumed that it was a cracked exhaust manifold. But I kept coming across the “Check your spark plugs” thread, and also seeing reports of burnt or cracked coil pack tubes, possibly due to loose plugs. Then, when I replaced my muffler with a Magnaflow unit I got a check engine light suggesting an O2 sensor problem. So I decided I’d start rectifying all the potential sources of bad combustion, starting with the symptom I’ve had all along, the tick. Bought all new plugs, as I couldn’t see any record from the dealer of plugs having been replaced (PO had the truck serviced by the local Lexus dealer), and three Denso coils. Every single plug creaked as it came out (“gosh, I hope this doesn’t twist off”) and looked to be in really good condition. None were what I’d call loose, though one was torqued somewhat lower than the other 7. All the coils were fine- new looking, even. Glad to not find any problems (257k), but really want to figure out this CEL. O2 sensors next, I guess. Heading out for the evening, so will post if anything has changed.
I had codes 0430 and 0420. New rear O2 sensors seems to be the trick.
So you reuse the brain plug and replace the washer? I need to do this soonFront/rear/transfer/engine oil changes. Front looked good. T case wasn’t great but not terrible. Rear fine. Debating wheel bearing check and repack and ball joints.
Had what I thought was a small chunk of something in the rear. Once I wiped it, literally paper thin. Nice little shaving, and I’m glad it wasn’t a chunk of something. I’d appreciate the lockers if it was (not that you can gears right now).
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I like that drain plug. Care to share the source?Did probably the most boring things I'll do to my LC. Installed a new transmission check/overflow plug. The original was stripping out bad. I nearly ruined the new one as I wasn't paying attention to the torque wrench I was using and almost overtightened it. 15 ft lbs for anyone curious. It got a new crush washer too.
And the other day I was going to rotate my tires but couldn't find the key for the dumb locking lug nuts. I'm guessing it stayed on the lug nut the last time I torqued them down after I removed torque wrench, and then probably fell off down the road somewhere. Anyway, got some aftermarket lug nuts. They seem okay. To get the locking lug nuts off without the key I hammered a 19mm 12pt socket on to each one. While that worked well, I couldn't get them separated after they were off, so I bought three cheap 19mm sockets so I could do the rest.
And while I was at it, I threw on one of the 16" OEM LC wheels that I plan on switching to. I'm still deciding on tires, but I think 295/75R16 is leading the way, maybe KO2's. Wanted to make sure it looked the way I thought it would and that they fit okay (I knew it would, but peace of mind before sending off to powdercoat and order tires). On that note, it seems like the center caps on the 16" wheels doesn't fit as snug as the 18" center caps. It could just be that these caps are pretty worn. Anyway, I like the look of the 16" wheels better so looking forward to getting that done. The cheap Sailun tires were new on the truck when I bought it and have been surprisingly good. 20k miles on them and a ton of tread left.
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For the diffs, you have to. Crush washer.So you reuse the brain plug and replace the washer? I need to do this soon
Thanks!For the diffs, you have to. Crush washer.
The transfer case has an aluminum washer that isn't the crush style, but I venture on the safe side because the torque value is pretty low, and I would prefer having a fresh washer with the right amount of compression on it every time. At less than a buck a washer, no sense in not doing them.
Front and rear diff are a must though.
To avoid confusion, it is the overflow plug not the drain plug. On the later LC's they didn't have a dipstick to check the ATF level, you use this overflow plug. The drain plug is different, OEM 90341-10011.I like that drain plug. Care to share the source?