What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (43 Viewers)

[OwnerCS]

The fun begins. My hood stays up ON ITS OWN now, and the blinkers all work. Big, fancy stuff at Jake’s place.

Question for the hive mind. My suspension creaks on this thing like crazy. Are there any common breakage points or things that get particularly old and dry under these... or is it just a matter of tracking down what bushing needs grease/ replacement and getting that done? I know previousowner got some things replaced as needed, but there sounds to be something else still in need.

On the Hundy, I found front stabilizer bar links and bushings to be in bad shape. Though not noisy, they were in serious need of replacement.

Some years ago, had a "hard to find" suspension creak that I could only diagnose by using a chassis ear. The noise turned out to be from poly stabilizer bar (the ones that mount to the frame) bushings. Poly end link bushings were ok since they don't rub against a rotating bar.

Eons ago in my youth, I worked at an old time full service gas station. We did things to prolong car life like changing brake fluid that you only see happening around car clubs today.

We would spray RuGLYDE on bushings to lubricate and keep them quiet. I keep a gallon in my workshop. I put it in a spray bottle and use it periodically clean and lubricate rubber suspension parts. It still works.

 

[Catskills]

Another all girls' float yesterday.

Love that my girlfriend @kasassy has a fun vehicle I have to drive for the shuttle.

 

[suboptimusprime]

Got my Dissent bumper and 12k winch installed. Took a very full half a day but we were drinking and BSing a good bit. Biggest hiccup was that the tacked on capture nuts on the underside of one frame rail had somehow gotten buggered and broke loose after a few on/off cycles with the main supports. Tried various things to rescue them but in the end that side is just supported by the two horizontal bolts. Everything lined up well despite everything. Cut a little slot out of the trim support to allow mounting the control box on the motor (Smittybuilt X20) right behind my daughters feet. Looks tidy enough--maybe I'll mask everything off and paint that strip black at some point.

Kids are pleased to have another thing to climb on and wasted no time christening the new armor. Gotta wire up the lights and figure out what to do about blinkers. I've never done any wiring before but MUD has gotten me into and out of many firsts at this point so I'm sure it'll be OK.

 

[DeereMechanic]

Was finally able to get some projects done yesterday, I installed my Prinsu Rack and ARB Awning, was also able to get my new grille installed from Landcruiser Grilles.

 

[Keowee]

Eons ago in my youth, I worked at an old time full service gas station. We did things to prolong car life like changing brake fluid that you only see happening around car clubs today.

We would spray RuGLYDE on bushings to lubricate and keep them quiet. I keep a gallon in my workshop. I put it in a spray bottle and use it periodically clean and lubricate rubber suspension parts. It still works.

I did the same thing after school and weekends. It was a great way to learn car maintenance.

We brushed the tires with RuGLYDE after a wash job. Made them look almost new.

It made those squeaky front bushings quit chirping until the next oil change.

 

[abuck99]

Been wanting to install stainless brake hoses for a while now, and bit the bullet. There's a couple of good threads on install and different experiences with various brands (stoptech, goodridge, safebrake, custom made) do a search if your curious; but I went with Slee stainless steel brake hose kit since stuff with their name on it typically works well and is good quality: Made in USA and DOT approved, the kit is 6pcs; 2 for the front and 4 for the rear. The rear dropdown lines are extended for lifted trucks to allow for the added droop. They come with new copper washers for the banjo fittings and new hose end clips: $180. I actually bought these from Cruiser Outfitters since I was ordering some other stuff.

I pretreated all the flare nuts with Kroil a few days prior to this job and you know after 15years they still gave up a little fight but eventually came loose. Often times one or two of the fittings are overtorqued from the factory and separating the hose from the line can be a "un-fun" challenge. (link to that thread Here) Thankfully the brake line ends slid right out of the hoses and install of the Slee lines went smoothly.

It's been less than 2yrs (10k miles) since my last complete brake system flush and the fluid was registering less than 1% moisture so I didn't see the need to waste a bunch of fluid to refresh. FWIW when you remove the banjo fittings at the calipers you loose about 8oz +/- combined from all four calipers, and very little fluid volume in the hoses themselves. So you can get plan on having at least 16oz of fluid on hand for this job- more if you're doing a full system flush. I only used about 12 oz Toyota DOT3 to bleed front & rear lines and top up the reservoir. I saved some fluid loss by capping the end of the line while I was working on cleaning up the fittings and installing the line. Just do one line at a time and it goes pretty easy.

Pro Tip: You can see in the picture above the slight damage to the flare nut from the poor quality HF flare nut wrench I used. Get a decent set of Flare nut wrenches ahead of time: The HarborFreight flare nut wrenches I bought are crap- nearly 1mm play which left the flare nuts looking a little rough- thankfully none stripped. You get what you pay for sometimes, and at 14.99 the HF FNW's are junk.

 

[Thatonedude]

Breaking out tech stream because my CEL, VSC Trac and VSC off light just came on, on my 2006 LX.. also, I notice when I drive slow (below 5mph) I can hear like a slight squeaking noise coming from on of the tires on a full rotation.... Guess we'll see what codes I'm getting...

 

[Soul Rebel]

Also tonight did some rust remediation (found rust under a quarter window seal) and bolted up one of my new @TRAIL TAILOR shock protectors—these things are works of art; I feel so bad about what’s going to happen to them....

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How did you clean up the rust and how hard was it to pull the seal and reinstall it? I’ve been neglecting this bit of bubble rust and want to try and handle it soon.

 

[Zer0zg]

Finished my timing belt/water pump install and it runs! Will check for leaks tomorrow when the FIPG cures, but it was a productive weekend

 

[KraziAzn]

Got bored and plasti dipped the emblems

 

[ticoman]

Had a funky smell when A/C is on (all the time here) and also a slow drip from the bottom of the a/c box, I removed the glove box door,the black shield above the opening, 2 10 mm bolts from the bottom corners of the opening, then removed the antenna relay(elec box in the middle of the A/C door) as well as 2 other little connectors . Now remove the 8 screws surrounding the A/C box , one of them is a bit tough s it is in line with the lower lip of the glove box opening. Gently pull on the glove box lower lip and you can wiggle the lid off of the A/C box. Chances are you will dislodge the gasket at the bottom edge so be careful.
I lined the foot well with a garbage bag and set a small bucket under the unit to catch the waste . I sprayed diluted Purple power degreaser in the opening and got everything as much as I could, then used big bottle brush to clean the housing and fins of the evaporator. Now I used garden hose sprayer to rinse it all away out the overflow tube (check to make sure it is running water and not plugged.)
The gasket was pretty compressed and saturated, but as I had no way to get a new one I used a bead of blue gasket goop as well as the old material. Put everything back together (about 15 min) and I was good to go.
Smells much better now and no more leaks. Sure wish it cooled as well as my 80 does but, no big fan up front, and with the intercooler in the way, no room to install one.

 

[gkaan]

Finally put this on my old peeling steering wheel. The color matches the seats and carpet better than the wheel but it is a huge improvement.

 

[ls6]

Greased some zerks

 

[OwnerCS]

Greased some zerksView attachment 2325672

I think I recognize that grease. I've been using it for years. Good stuff. Don't get any of it on you or your clothes. It is hard to wash out.

 

[mdcoa]

How did you clean up the rust and how hard was it to pull the seal and reinstall it? I’ve been neglecting this bit of bubble rust and want to try and handle it soon.

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Is that rust bubble spot below the rear quarter windows? If so you may just need to pull the belt moulding below the windows and not the seal itself. But I think both involve similar amounts of work—in both cases pulling the upper and lower internal trim is the hard part. Window comes off with two nits up front and two at the motor in the rear. Just have new belt moulding on hand because by all accounts you’ll destroy the original removing it.
i used a dremel tool flap wheel to grind the rust away and Eastwood’s rust encapsulate spray. I’ll let you know in five years how it worked!
Thread about the overall job here: Replace Moulding, Quarter Window--the trim at the front of your rearmost window

 

[Thatonedude]

Breaking out tech stream because my CEL, VSC Trac and VSC off light just came on, on my 2006 LX.. also, I notice when I drive slow (below 5mph) I can hear like a slight squeaking noise coming from on of the tires on a full rotation.... Guess we'll see what codes I'm getting...

Ran tech stream... Throwing codes P0430 and C1201.... Any body familiar? From what I'm seeing, P430 is most likely the bank 2 down stream 02 sensor... And the C1201 could be a wheel speed sensor?? I did just get the brakes fully changed (Rotors, calipers, and pads on all 4 corners,) do you think it's possible they damaged one?

 

[SETXCruiser]

Dissent skids installed

Do the skids have to come off for oil changes?

 

[BadReligion]

Do the skids have to come off for oil changes?

No, but it only takes a few minutes to drop the section that covers the oil filter. Makes it easier to clean everything up with the skid plate out.

 

[wrigh003]

Larry the LX needed a bath. He wasn't filthy, per se, but I wanted to clean up some wheel grossness (corrosion/ embedded iron/ brake dust/ dirt) and just get a basic wash in, so I tried a new-to-me product while I had the pressure washer out. Worked a treat. Spray on, wait, marvel at the nasty goo streaming away, rinse. Still not perfect, but for about $5 worth of product and no scrubbing, not bad. I wish I'd taken a good picture of what that particular wheel looked like before. It was mostly brown inside the spokes, and that stuff had been cooking on/into there for a while.

The rest of the truck cleaned up pretty well, too, but I'll be running a polisher over it soon anyway. There are a couple places (hood, front of roof) where the clear's gone. Polish won't cure that, but since I'm planning to plastidip the whole car as soon as I get a couple other minor things squared up... it'll be best to spray that over the smoothest surface I can get. Unless it cleans up real nice... and then I might just dip the grille/ plate surround/ wheels(?) and call it good.

And, yes- lugnuts are on the way and the studs to go with em are already here. I ordered the wrong shape last week. :/

 

[tewald]

Finished up my Switch-Pros install so now I can finally get the rest of the lights that have been sitting in boxes for 6 months installed. Fabbed a quick mount out of 3/16ths and secured with a nutsert and treaded rod into an existing spot in the wheel well. So far I have the ARB air Compressor and under-hood work lights wired up. I love the RGB options on the controller, they match well with the OEM green interior lights.