What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (100 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Working through a good list of maintenance items during the lockdown, but here was the first - which also led to the 2nd:

Swapped the exhaust with a Borla Cat-Back system. Here's my post detailing the install #32 on this thread:

and while I had the truck in the workshop for the exhaust, the starter STB, leading to my first ever tow on the 100. a strange circumstance, probably related to low voltage in the start battery due to sitting more than normal and age - 250k and now it has an new OEM starter:
 
Installed the Crux Bluetooth adapter. Stoked to finally get some tunes going.

IMG_20200421_134751.jpg
 
Long time lurker first-time poster. I took a trip down to the freight terminal in SOCAL to pick up a load. Ironman Foam Cell Pros all the way around, coil springs, torsion bars, and a nice cowcatcher for the heck of it. Trail Tailor diff drop is OTW. Good deal overall with the current sale going on. I was hesitant with the bumper purchase at first as I have always planned on going with the ARB, however, it seems like a quality piece and comes wired with lights.

I went with the 2.5" lift / constant load option as I will be adding runners, rear bumper and roof rack in the near future.

Cali truck. Second owner 99' 100 Series w/ 147XXX on the clock.

It should be a fun weekend. Any tips for the install would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything ya'll do here on MUD.

Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Classic Off Road Bumper
BBCD006​
Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Foam Cell Pro 2" Suspension Kit - Constant Load (440-880LBS)
TOY050CKP​
View attachment 2281503View attachment 2281504View attachment 2281507View attachment 2281506View attachment 2281505
Is that not a rebadged ARB bumper? It sure looks similar. For the shock replacement, there are a bunch of good write-ups on here. For the rear shocks, I recommend the technique that's described in some posts here where you jack up the rear as high as you can and put it on tall jack stands on the frame, remove the wheels, and jack up the wheel opposite the one you're swapping the spring on. Drop the spare tire and you'll have tons of room to sit in there and access the top nut on the shocks, and to take off a few small bolts for the emergency brake cable etc so you don't stretch anything when you're swapping the springs.
 
Is that not a rebadged ARB bumper? It sure looks similar. For the shock replacement, there are a bunch of good write-ups on here. For the rear shocks, I recommend the technique that's described in some posts here where you jack up the rear as high as you can and put it on tall jack stands on the frame, remove the wheels, and jack up the wheel opposite the one you're swapping the spring on. Drop the spare tire and you'll have tons of room to sit in there and access the top nut on the shocks, and to take off a few small bolts for the emergency brake cable etc so you don't stretch anything when you're swapping the springs.

Well, it sure looks familiar. ha! I've personally never compared the two models (other than aesthetics) but it wouldn't surprise me if it came out of the same factory. Thanks for the advice!
 
Is that not a rebadged ARB bumper? It sure looks similar.

Nope, not rebadged. There are some big differences between the two. The winch mount is completely different for starters. The IronMan lacks the lower bar that crosses below the headlights and connects the outer bullbar upright across to the other for another. The IronMan bullbar extends thru the bumper and is additionally welded there as well as on top. The IronMan doesn't have the 2 aux mount tabs on the center bullbar element. Instead, it only has the one on the driver side bullbar element. Very similar looking designs no doubt with identical aims in terms of front end protection. But, the IronMan is it's own entity. Both are solid choices in the more "traditional" looking bullbar arena. TJM T13 is another great option. For the price, though, the IronMan is amazing IMO. I might be biased though :)

LED Light Posts.JPG
 
Ordered a “OEM” replacement idler pulley off ebay it was pictured and came in a Toyota box but I’m sure this is a China knock off , the bearing is quite a bit different and the casting rougher than my stock one ,or on the Toyota ones I checked pics of. I was stupid thinking g I’d get a OEM part for 1/4 what it goes for at the dealer. I didn’t even put it on, and ordered a genuine part. The box looked genuine but I guess they counterfeit those as well. I’d keep it as a spare but requested a return because I hate this kinda thing

95AE8C3C-6AB8-4BD2-9AD3-B1BA8A06A6E6.jpeg


8CA2773F-AC2D-44C0-B8DF-BC84F8632207.png
 
Ordered a “OEM” replacement idler pulley off ebay it was pictured and came in a Toyota box but I’m sure this is a China knock off , the bearing is quite a bit different and the casting rougher than my stock one ,or on the Toyota ones I checked pics of. I was stupid thinking g I’d get a OEM part for 1/4 what it goes for at the dealer. I didn’t even put it on, and ordered a genuine part. The box looked genuine but I guess they counterfeit those as well. I’d keep it as a spare but requested a return because I hate this kinda thing

View attachment 2282430

View attachment 2282431
Good call I would’ve done the same. It can cause more problems down the road say if it caught you in a peculiar spot (off-grid during an adventure trail). As the saying goes “cheap parts break hearts”
 
Long time lurker first-time poster. I took a trip down to the freight terminal in SOCAL to pick up a load. Ironman Foam Cell Pros all the way around, coil springs, torsion bars, and a nice cowcatcher for the heck of it. Trail Tailor diff drop is OTW. Good deal overall with the current sale going on. I was hesitant with the bumper purchase at first as I have always planned on going with the ARB, however, it seems like a quality piece and comes wired with lights.

I went with the 2.5" lift / constant load option as I will be adding runners, rear bumper and roof rack in the near future.

Cali truck. Second owner 99' 100 Series w/ 147XXX on the clock.

It should be a fun weekend. Any tips for the install would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything ya'll do here on MUD.

Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Classic Off Road Bumper
BBCD006​
Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Foam Cell Pro 2" Suspension Kit - Constant Load (440-880LBS)
TOY050CKP​
View attachment 2281503View attachment 2281504View attachment 2281507View attachment 2281506View attachment 2281505
Curious if Ironman had released a rear bar for our 100 series?
 
New oem throttle body. Fun times.

B23981C7-7A8D-4B3D-BE38-41B6A6914F9B.jpeg


AD56E9B6-C24B-4569-B4E9-101C43A8AA3D.jpeg
 
I wrapped up my latest group buy purchases:
  • Huracan tailgate lid
  • Raingler cargo net
IMG_20200422_195004.jpg

IMG_20200422_195102.jpg


And since I hated how Raingler suggested installing the cargo net with the seat installed, I threw caution to the wind and made a few cuts.
IMG_20200422_195020.jpg
 
Ordered a “OEM” replacement idler pulley off ebay it was pictured and came in a Toyota box but I’m sure this is a China knock off , the bearing is quite a bit different and the casting rougher than my stock one ,or on the Toyota ones I checked pics of. I was stupid thinking g I’d get a OEM part for 1/4 what it goes for at the dealer. I didn’t even put it on, and ordered a genuine part. The box looked genuine but I guess they counterfeit those as well. I’d keep it as a spare but requested a return because I hate this kinda thing

View attachment 2282430

View attachment 2282431

I just noticed this part from partsouq in UAE, where I have purchased real OEM parts, has the quality lot number stamped in the lower right corner.

The lot number was clearly stamped after the label was printed. I've found counterfeit parts will NOT have this control number as a separate stamping.

Partsouq uses a complex watermark to prevent counterfeiters from sealing their pictures of genuine product. I can see their watermark over the black on the pulley.

1587628951328.png


This looks like a counterfeit parts box.

1587636773675.png




Here's a counterfeit injector from a 5VZFE-FE without the control number. I made these injector pictures after I was burned by the counterfeits.

1587629604207.png


Here's a genuine injector with the control number that was clearly stamped after the part number using a different process.


1587629947334.png
 
Last edited:
That’s great info and something I need to check in the future. Thanks.
I just noticed this part from partsouq in UAE, where I have purchased real OEM parts, has the quality lot number stamped in the lower right corner.

The lot number was clearly stamped after the label was printed. I've found counterfeit parts will NOT have this control number as a separate stamping.

Partsouq uses a complex watermark to prevent counterfeiters from sealing their pictures of genuine product. I can see their watermark over the black on the pulley.

View attachment 2282773

This looks like a counterfeit parts box.

View attachment 2282787



Here's a counterfeit injector from a 5VZFE-FE without the control number. I made these injector pictures after I was burned by the counterfeits.

View attachment 2282774

Here's a genuine injector with the control number that was clearly stamped after the part number using a different process.


View attachment 2282775
 
Got any pics of your anchor points for the Raingler? I just installed mine and am open to other approaches....including new holes.
I did 4 modifications:
1. Starting from the top - I selected the net kit for rigs without the rear handles. This provided me with a set of D Ring straps that Raingler suggests installing at the top of the pillar with the seatbelt. I simply mounted it further back. I did not want to use the handles because the net gets tilted further back than I like and am dreaming up other uses for the handles.
C100 Stainless D-Ring Strap Set for Cargo Nets or Anchors

2. I ordered this Square ring strap assembly and mounted it using existing threaded holes under the rear window. I am not sure what the tread size or pitch is, but I used the bolts from my subwoofer enclosure when I removed it.

3. Instead of using the seatbelt bracket on the pillar, I used it at the floor. This replaces the 1/2 hole and plastic toggle assembly Raingler suggests you drill through the lower panel. The way Raingler suggests would work, but you would have to get new plastic toggles every time you remove the panel. Since I have aftermarket wiring behind that panel, I found another way.

4. The new mounting method resulted in excessive loose webbing. I looped the top and bottom straps through the D ring mounts and buckled them together using this buckle which helped close that gap my dogs can squeeze through.
Sea to Summit Field Repair Buckle

1587654735861.png
 
I did 4 modifications:
1. Starting from the top - I selected the net kit for rigs without the rear handles. This provided me with a set of D Ring straps that Raingler suggests installing at the top of the pillar with the seatbelt. I simply mounted it further back. I did not want to use the handles because the net gets tilted further back than I like and am dreaming up other uses for the handles.
C100 Stainless D-Ring Strap Set for Cargo Nets or Anchors

2. I ordered this Square ring strap assembly and mounted it using existing threaded holes under the rear window. I am not sure what the tread size or pitch is, but I used the bolts from my subwoofer enclosure when I removed it.

3. Instead of using the seatbelt bracket on the pillar, I used it at the floor. This replaces the 1/2 hole and plastic toggle assembly Raingler suggests you drill through the lower panel. The way Raingler suggests would work, but you would have to get new plastic toggles every time you remove the panel. Since I have aftermarket wiring behind that panel, I found another way.

4. The new mounting method resulted in excessive loose webbing. I looped the top and bottom straps through the D ring mounts and buckled them together using this buckle which helped close that gap my dogs can squeeze through.
Sea to Summit Field Repair Buckle

View attachment 2282982
Love it. Mine’s still a work in progress—used roughly the Raingler instal plan, but found I could flatten and then ream out one pair of mounts to fit around the c-Pilar mounting bolts and height adjustment bits. Straps ended up too long so just got a shorter set from Raingler. Used another set of the same straps to go over the bottom seat belt bolts rather than using the through-the-panel approach. And ended up trimming the hardware at the top of the c pillar so the strap can emerge without causing a big gap. The install still ends up kind of wrapped around the seats but gives good coverage at top and sides, and is super solid so I’ll probably roll with it as is for a while.

20E781D0-FA14-4BA3-B81D-FA340A4E5969.jpeg


A71AFE24-6D4C-41B7-8E28-719BCBD52B53.jpeg


8F44F47D-E880-4D9E-B665-A49A8A8753B2.jpeg


4F2CE167-AB9E-4464-A7C1-EBE2827542E9.jpeg
 
Ordered a “OEM” replacement idler pulley off ebay it was pictured and came in a Toyota box but I’m sure this is a China knock off , the bearing is quite a bit different and the casting rougher than my stock one ,or on the Toyota ones I checked pics of. I was stupid thinking g I’d get a OEM part for 1/4 what it goes for at the dealer. I didn’t even put it on, and ordered a genuine part. The box looked genuine but I guess they counterfeit those as well. I’d keep it as a spare but requested a return because I hate this kinda thing

View attachment 2282430

View attachment 2282431

Report the counterfeit parts here-

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom