What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)

[Jordan345]

Over the last couple weeks I have been executing my winter maintenance and started my winter build plans.. maintenance items completed:

• new TPS
• replaced inner and outer front bearings, regreased
• greased prop shafts, rear Upper and lower Control arms, panhard rod
• rebuild starter
• cleaned alternator
• replaced fuel tank primary fuel filter
• removed all carpets, cleaned and dried
• wire loomed all exposed wiring under carpets (running to aux fuse panel and dual amps/sub)
• greased BIOR rear bumper spindles, pull pins with copper based anti seize
• removed skid plates and cleaned mud/debris from undercarriage
• removed rear speed sensor, DS side - was throwing a code.. cleaned it, put it back in, still throwing code.. new sensor on order
• cleaned throttle body
• cleaned all fuse boxes under the hood from swamp sludge (100 went swimming last month)
• cleaned all electrical connections, sealed with dielectric
• replaced two seized pullies - tensioner idler and one ordinary idler (it seized and blew my serpentine apart)
• new serpentine belt
• removed rear cargo system for repainting/rubberizing

Parts being installed now:

• front and ear TJM pro lockers
• master install kits
• Slee UCA's

Items still to complete:

• fix pesky rear right speed sensor
• rebuild rear end
• clean seatbelts
• repaint and touch up sliders/skids/bumpers
• install front and rear lockers
• install slee UCA's
• alignment

 

[2001LC]

Over the last couple weeks I have been executing my winter maintenance and started my winter build plans.. maintenance items completed:

1. replaced inner and outer front bearings, regreased
2. *** rear Upper and lower Control arms, panhard rod
3. cleaned alternator
4. replaced fuel tank primary fuel filter
5. replaced two seized pullies - tensioner idler and one ordinary idler (it seized and blew my serpentine apart)

Nice work and in just a couple of weeks. By spring you'll be in great shape to go at the trail again.

I have a few question, if you don't mind?

1) Any pictures of old wheel bearings & components?
Also; when were they last serviced, what were they torque too then and tire size?
2) Are these OEM?
3) How did brushes & bushings look?
4) Was fuel filter clogged, why & pictures?

5) Not a question but a money saving suggestion; Replace just bearings next time, cost ~$5 ea and often last longer than OEM pulley assembly replacements.

 

[paflytyer]

Today, I took some parts off my DD 100 and installed them on my trail 100. I bumped it up a notch.

 

[paflytyer]

Bumped a rock on the trail this week. This one wont buff out.

 

[mcgaskins]

Bumped a rock on the trail this week. This one wont buff out.

No sliders?!

 

[paflytyer]

No sliders?!

They were off of the trail rig getting cut and re-welded to bump them up closer to the body and get some additional clearance. Shoulda taken them off the other truck.

 

[bluecruiser]

No sliders?!

exact question I had. Figured you had them getting bumped or something like that.

 

[mcgaskins]

They were off of the trail rig getting cut and re-welded to bump them up closer to the body and get some additional clearance. Shoulda taken them off the other truck.

Ugh that's a bummer

 

[paflytyer]

Tough luck on that one. Would bumping your pressure up or down helped at all?

I went down to 18 to soak up the bumps. That's lower than I usually go but these 315s are huge. I think I could have bumped it down to 16. You think that's too low?

 

[bluecruiser]

I went down to 18 to soak up the bumps. That's lower than I usually go but these 315s are huge. I think I could have bumped it down to 16. You think that's too low?

well, that's a really good question. You may have bumped a little low. But I wouldn't strictly blame the big bump for that dent, though. Maybe you were distracted?

 

[paflytyer]

well, that's a really good question. You may have bumped a little low. But I wouldn't strictly blame the big bump for that dent, though. Maybe you were distracted?

I was worried about my bumper bumping a rock on the drivers side and not paying enough attention to the passenger side. Your bumper would have cleared for sure. Wanna trade bumpers?

 

[bluecruiser]

I was worried about my bumper bumping a rock on the drivers side and not paying enough attention to the passenger side. Your bumper would have cleared for sure. Wanna trade bumpers?

Wow, trading bumpers? Might be worth it. I could bump it over to you, you could push it harder than most, then we can meet up, post our findings, and revisit your original question. Do you think that being regeared would have helped at all?

 

[Jordan345]

Nice work and in just a couple of weeks. By spring you'll be in great shape to go at the trail again. I have a few question, if you don't mind? 1) Any pictures of old wheel bearings & components? Also; when were they last serviced, what were they torque too then and tire size? 2) Are these OEM? 3) How did Nice work and in just a couple of weeks. By spring you'll be in great shape to go at the trail again5) Not a question but a money saving suggestion; Replace just bearings next time, cost ~$5 ea and often last longer than OEM pulley assembly replacements. rushes & bushings look? 4) Was fuel filter clogged, why & pictures? 5) Not a question but a money saving suggestion; Replace just bearings next time, cost ~$5 ea and often last longer than OEM pulley assembly replacements.

It was a hectic couple weeks, season ending blues. the pictures below are of the wheel bearings.. the bearings were in good shape with the exception of the outer drivers side.. there were two rollers that had damage on them. you can see them in the photos clearly. the remainder of the bearings were in good shape, and every season i check and regrease. Last season, they were all good, so the damage would have occurred this year. Looking back, i had some clunking in the front i could never figure out - replace hub and did alignment, steering rack bushings, checked the front end out, replaced shocks, double checked droop etc.. had a toyota trd guy have a look on the rack, nobody could figure it out. I wonder if the wheel bearing nuts weren't tight enough. I always thought toyota's recommended ft lbs were too low, but i did follow their recommendations when i reinstalled and regreased last year. This time, went tighter to 30 ft lbs. there is no more clunking.. and with the new bearings, i hope the problem won't reoccur. it could be possible that too loose may cause unwarranted play and result in damaged bearings. beats me. I am just happy the noise is gone. tire size before was 33 inch, i've been running 35's for about 2 months. The originals are oem, although this time i went and picked up timken (which i believe are oem anyway). As for brushes and bushings, the alternator contacts were completely white from water. a couple week prior i got into a little too deep of water and submerged over the hood, began floating and had to be pulled out. It isn't my first starter rebuild, in fact the third time. the alternator bushings were likely fine, i replaced it only 6 months earlier with a new denso unit. It was just full of dried mud and weeds from water crossings. the bushings on the rear u and l control arms /panhard rods were fine, although i dented both lower control arms, even with the added steel support to the front as transition. the new ones have the nice johnnie joints and are made from dom tubing. the fuel filter was not clogged, but as a pm and 30 bucks, i don't mind pulling it out and changing it. .i had my carpets out anyway for cleaning. The pulley was just easy to buy as an assembly and not too worried about the cost aspect. i'm into the truck for nearly 20 over the purchase price, what's 70 bucks. ironically it turned out the pulley assembly was the wrong size and not for the 100. i pressed out the bearing anyway and reinserted it into the original, reinstalling and buttoning it back up. Its a fun journey building this rig, although there is still a bunch of body damage i'd like to repair from trail damage. I envy the rigs that look pristine and shiny, although for me, i'd rather get it in the bush and wheel hard but try to be as careful as one can be with such a large rig.. our trees are very tight, a lot of rock and water.

 

[1loudLX]

Today, I took some parts off my DD 100 and installed them on my trail 100. I bumped it up a notch.

I should have brought mine down and we could've had a party.

 

[paflytyer]

I should have brought mine down and we could've had a party.

We could have made a 400 Series. It'll pretty much go anywhere.

 

[2001LC]

*****

I wonder if the wheel bearing nuts weren't tight enough. I always thought toyota's recommended ft lbs were too low, but i did follow their recommendations when i reinstalled and regreased last year. This time, went tighter to 30 ft lbs. there is no more clunking.. and with the new bearings, i hope the problem won't reoccur. it could be possible that too loose may cause unwarranted play and result in damaged bearings. beats me.
*******
a couple week prior i got into a little too deep of water and submerged over the hood, began floating and had to be pulled out.
****
the fuel filter was not clogged, but as a pm and 30 bucks, i don't mind pulling it out and changing it.
****
The pulley was just easy to buy as an assembly and not too worried about the cost aspect.
***

50K miles ago, I replaced bearing of my tension pulley by pressing in NAPA bearing. The idler bearing was not readily available so I just used OEM pulley assemble. Interesting I just check with my stethoscope and the NAPA bearing sound smooth, but the OEM has a tick. I'm going with $5 bearing this time, if I can find it.

Fuel filters are not a PM according to factory, that's why I asked if clogged. I've been think about doing same and was curious if you found it clogged at all.

I assume it was the inner nut you set to 30 ft lb & 47 ft lb on outer nut. With over-sized tires I'm betting your good to go with that higher than FSM recommended torque. I'm of the opinion FSM torque spec is to loose, which will cause the wheel bearing assemble to chatter. This will often show-up in claw washer.

This was one of my claw washer with 128K miles on it. Which had 30K on it since previous service at which time some minor scoring was observed, so i flip it then, and set to FSM torque. Will see next service if the higher torque of 12 ft lb i used now is adequate to corrects chatter issue, with the new claw washer I installed.

 

[jemsec]

Replaced radiator hoses, all heater hoses to the rear heater. Those two straight ones, behind a heat shield half way between the tees and rear heater, were a real joy. Had previously replaced the hoses meeting at the new plastic tees, with 5/8" and 1/2" stock and they were forever leaking. They just don't fit well and could never get them all to seal at the same time. Ordered OEM hoses and they fit and don't leak at all. Looked for metric hose stock and never found any. Also replaced the fuel filter and had crud draining out of the old one.

Put something like a folded heavy moving pad on top of the engine with the engine cover off for a cushion.

 

[Jordan345]

50K miles ago, I replaced bearing of my tension pulley by pressing in NAPA bearing. The idler bearing was not readily available so I just used OEM pulley assemble. Interesting I just check with my stethoscope and the NAPA bearing sound smooth, but the OEM has a tick. I'm going with $5 bearing this time, if I can find it. Fuel filters are not a PM according to factory, that's why I asked if clogged. I've been think about doing same and was curious if you found it clogged at all. I assume it was the inner nut you set to 30 ft lb & 47 ft lb on outer nut. With over-sized tires I'm betting your good to go with that higher than FSM recommended torque. I'm of the opinion FSM torque spec is to loose, which will cause the wheel bearing assemble to chatter. This will often show-up in claw washer. This was one of my claw washer with 128K miles on it. Which had 30K on it since previous service at which time some minor scoring was observed, so i flip it then, and set to FSM torque. Will see next service if the higher torque of 12 ft lb i used now is adequate to corrects chatter issue, with the new claw washer I installed.

I'll pick up the napa bearing next time, i didn't spend the time to check and simply think through getting just the bearing. The fuel filter wasn't clogged at all, although it was tinged yellow/orange. No harm in replacing for me. I had it sitting for some time in the garage waiting for a chance to do it. I didn't see anywhere in my claw washer, I'm surprised at the wear!! but in reality, only rebuilt the hubs about 10K ago, early in the season. I'm going to use your torque recommendation and double check and reset everything. Just so i'm clear, you set the inboard nut at 30 and the outboard at 47.

 

[2001LC]

***** I always thought toyota's recommended ft lbs were too low, but i did follow their recommendations when i reinstalled and regreased last year. This time, went tighter to 30 ft lbs. there is no more clunking.. and with the new bearings, i hope the problem won't reoccur. it could be possible that too loose may cause unwarranted play and result in damaged bearings. beats me.****

******
I assume it was the inner nut you set to 30 ft lb & 47 ft lb on outer nut. ***

******. I'm going to use your torque recommendation and double check and reset everything. Just so i'm clear, you set the inboard nut at 30 and the outboard at 47.

NO my inner nut is currently torqued to 12 ft-lb & outer at 47 ft-lb. with stock tire size. That said if you go to: SEE Wheel Bearing: FSM Torque to Light or just Right you'll see a discussing wherein wildsmiths' is using 35ft-lb on inner nut with over size tires.

My vin # records show 30K mile service done by PO at a cost of ~$500, I assume wheel bearing done at that time. At ~100K (not near soon enough) I serviced wheel bearings and found PS looked ok, but DS was in bad shape. My thinking at the time was shop over-tighten DS. I now believe my I thinking was wrong and shop just didn't bend tabs on DS lock washer and so it loose-up.

Two of the top mechanics in Denver one a shop foreman at large Toyota dealer service center & the other a Lexus mechanic with the most stars (Lexus rating system for years on job) in the state, both agree FSM torque is to loose. The mechanic said they believe using FSM torque spec on the wheel bearings and they'll chatter causing scoring, heat and failure. I believe very few shop even look at FM spec they just use old school technique of setting bearing preload.

So now I'm using 12ft-lb on inner nut as a test, which I'll check once 30K on them. One mud post stated: once claw washer(s) scored near impossible to stop. Although I replaced the DS claw washer and reconditioned the spindle & bearings as they seemed serviceable. The PS did get some minor scoring while set to FSM from previous 30K while torqued to FSM spec. So my test may be skewed somewhat, as I don't have all new components in wheels hubs.

I'm no expert, but the look of your bearing it may have failed do to defect in materiel, or by very hard contaminant. Some mechanics (not myself) do not clean bearings of DD (daily driver), they only repack. A shortcut they justify by stating re-mineralization, the same principle as moly grease.

I apologize if I've steered from OP's post of this thread, maybe anymore discussion on this should be moved to above link.

FWIW: Greasing thrust bushing & needle bearings of axle and setting snap ring gap are also very important and often missed.

 

[paflytyer]

Two of the top mechanics in Denver one a shop foreman at large Toyota dealer service center & the other a Lexus mechanic with the most stars (Lexus rating system for years on job) in the state,

Who says these are the top mechanics in Denver? The internet?