Let me know how those Yokes work out for you. Been eyeing those as my next tire. What size did you go with? I'm considering 295/70/18.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (67 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Let me know how those Yokes work out for you. Been eyeing those as my next tire. What size did you go with? I'm considering 295/70/18.
Did you fab up the hoop yourself? Looks great.
Got it from Ben at dissent off-road. Waited 3 months for it.
took the family down to Savannah (8hour Drive)
when I went to level the truck I pressed the brake pedal and it went straight to the floor. Left sid is the line that busted. Right side is my trail fix. Luckily the dealer has both right and left I can swap in.
when I went to level the truck I pressed the brake pedal and it went straight to the floor. Left sid is the line that busted. Right side is my trail fix. Luckily the dealer has both right and left I can swap in.
Looks great. I had the same thought and took a shot on this one Jeep Light Bar (RC Bumpers) instead.
Lines up pretty well on the bumper and was only $89 bucks. I have had it a year and need to take the time to install it...
Definitely a Dissent weld! Looks awesome - well done
They were not cheap, but are the lightest & quietest easiest to balance M/T among them all according to multiple hours of investigation. 295/70/18
I like them! I've had to rebuild one shock over the past 3 yrs
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,024
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
- Website
- www.facebook.com
Trail Tailor rear upper control arms. OEM arms had 224k on them
Wire wheeled. Applied POR15.
This truck lived in CT (in a climate controlled garage) from 2003-2017 and moved to PA (my garage) from 2017-current.
Mostly surface rust on the weld seams and body mounts, the worst of it being the typical area - the rear axle and pumpkin
Found a new to me gas tank skid cover from FL in perfect condition (straps & hardware included). Coated it and the front skid in POR15 and chassis paint
This truck lived in CT (in a climate controlled garage) from 2003-2017 and moved to PA (my garage) from 2017-current.
Mostly surface rust on the weld seams and body mounts, the worst of it being the typical area - the rear axle and pumpkin
Found a new to me gas tank skid cover from FL in perfect condition (straps & hardware included). Coated it and the front skid in POR15 and chassis paint
Last edited:
^^^ looking good bro, should withstand winter from years to come, it's a lot of work but the end result is satisfying.
Thanks man! I remember when you did your first white LX. You said it was a pain - and you weren’t exaggerating.
Dude ... you’ve had 4 100 series cruisers - I have to remind you which one I’m talking about
Last edited:
you sprayed so much that your face came off!
I'm not sure I want to try that stuff
I'm not sure I want to try that stuff
I started a new business that doesn't require me to commute anymore, so I'm pretty much home all the time now. Because of this, I've been getting a little stir crazy...
Today I did the finishing steps on the cap I ordered from @BenCC . This was an idea I've had for a while, and when he started producing all those great parts, I figured it was a good time to give it a shot.
The final product was printed in black resin. He made me a few in ABS to practice on as well. I just used an old trick that hot-rodders and firearms enthusiasts use for recessed lettering. Just 'fill the well' of the letters with your nail polish, and come back with a lint-free, low-knap cloth wrapped around a cork, moistened with polish remover, and clean off the surface. It took me about 5 'coats' to get the lettering filled juuuuust below flush. A shot or two of some clear coat and a dab of adhesive, she's back in action.
Today I did the finishing steps on the cap I ordered from @BenCC . This was an idea I've had for a while, and when he started producing all those great parts, I figured it was a good time to give it a shot.
The final product was printed in black resin. He made me a few in ABS to practice on as well. I just used an old trick that hot-rodders and firearms enthusiasts use for recessed lettering. Just 'fill the well' of the letters with your nail polish, and come back with a lint-free, low-knap cloth wrapped around a cork, moistened with polish remover, and clean off the surface. It took me about 5 'coats' to get the lettering filled juuuuust below flush. A shot or two of some clear coat and a dab of adhesive, she's back in action.
I also tried my luck at a little PDR and some testing of my new MF cutting pads and 3D One polish.
The dents were pretty bad, pretty deep. I'd been told by 3-4 PDR pros that it was just too much for them to try out, so I figured I'd give it a shot for the $60 the tool kit cost me. I was just looking for 'better', definitely didn't expect 'perfect'.
Beginning. Notice the big deep scratches in the dents where the door rubbed a tree root about 5' off the ground:
So I tried a little bit of everything the kit came with. I had a slide hammer, a little gun looking thing, and a metal 3-footed whatchamacall it. I've never done any kind of dent removal before, so this was completely new. If anyone here is an expert and has any tips, I'm all ears. For now, I'd say it was worth the $60 I paid and the ~30 minutes spent.
I also wet sanded the scratches and buffed. the MF pads on my PC weren't cutting it (pun intended) so I switched to my old Makita with a foam cutting pad and that made short work. Followed up with the MF pad on the PC, 3D One polish, and it came out really well. This is all just preliminary work before a full weekend worth of buffing and paint correcting. At least now I have an idea of how the paint reacts to various tools and products.
The dents were pretty bad, pretty deep. I'd been told by 3-4 PDR pros that it was just too much for them to try out, so I figured I'd give it a shot for the $60 the tool kit cost me. I was just looking for 'better', definitely didn't expect 'perfect'.
Beginning. Notice the big deep scratches in the dents where the door rubbed a tree root about 5' off the ground:
So I tried a little bit of everything the kit came with. I had a slide hammer, a little gun looking thing, and a metal 3-footed whatchamacall it. I've never done any kind of dent removal before, so this was completely new. If anyone here is an expert and has any tips, I'm all ears. For now, I'd say it was worth the $60 I paid and the ~30 minutes spent.
I also wet sanded the scratches and buffed. the MF pads on my PC weren't cutting it (pun intended) so I switched to my old Makita with a foam cutting pad and that made short work. Followed up with the MF pad on the PC, 3D One polish, and it came out really well. This is all just preliminary work before a full weekend worth of buffing and paint correcting. At least now I have an idea of how the paint reacts to various tools and products.
BenCC
Supporting Vendor
What adhesive did you use to glue it to the lever?
