What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (60 Viewers)
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Looks lovely! Change the relay under dash. I forget which one but I got mines on superbrite leds.
I was just given a 1999 LC with a few issues, plenty of dirty carpets, and past due maintenance, but, she is RUST FREE and now passes smog and runs, 
I have new tires and many maintenance items shipped from the Toyota factory and I'm waiting to install them! Besides baselining the LC mechanically what would you guys do to your rig first that is a nuisance fixer as I am new to this generation of LC?
I have new tires and many maintenance items shipped from the Toyota factory and I'm waiting to install them! Besides baselining the LC mechanically what would you guys do to your rig first that is a nuisance fixer as I am new to this generation of LC?
This worked on my 06 LX, and I’m sure there are some alternatives on Amazon. It’s an easy swap under the dash.
CF18-08 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher - 8 Pin Toyota Flasher - Black
Pin Diagram Legend L = Load R = Load T.S. = Turn Signal H.S. = Hazard Switch I = Ignition Description Electronic LED Flasher Relays have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or with out LED bulbs.
@mckunz I must say that’s a well organized garage. Start off with draining/flushing all the fluids and replace them with fresh ones. Make a thorough inspection throughout the whole vehicle for any leaks so you address them immediately and prevent breakdowns. Next are your consumables- brake rotors, pads, intake and cabin filters, wipers, etc. Once baselining is done next part is the fun part -upgrades!
Finally got my sliders installed. Said very few bad words despite doing it solo and dealing with AHC impediments.
Metal tech?
Yep yep.
Installed Tough Dog Cell foam shocks. 41mm front and 45 mm adjustable rears. Also, took care of the surface rust on the shock mounting brackets.
One of the rear shocks came out busted! Only 12 months and 8k miles!
One of the rear shocks came out busted! Only 12 months and 8k miles!
So how do you like them?
I finished a 3 day exterior detail. This included a lot of wet sanding, some dent pulling, a fair bit of paint touch up, a roof rack delete, some hopes and prayers, then a ceramic coating at the end. All in all, for a trail truck that's had some character added, it turned out great. Almost all of the big scratches sanded and buffed out. I had a few down to primer and they filled in pretty well with touch up.
Someone will ask:
Started with a stripper wash. Then Black Fire iron remover. Then I used my nano-skin pad on my PC to 'clay' the whole truck. These are cool if you've clayed the vehicle recently, but not as effective (IMO) if paint is really contaminated. In my case, it was relatively clean in that respect. I used 3D One hybrid compound/polish on mainly buff 'n shine MF cutting and polishing pads. My first time using either of these. The 3DO goes from removing sanding marks down to final polishing, just swap your pads to decrease cutting power. Really, really nice product. I did find that my PC didn't have the nuts to remove the sanding marks without taking forever, so I bumped to my Makita rotary for those spots. I did the whole truck twice, basically. Once with the cutters and once with the polishers. Next was a prep wipe with Gyeon Q2M prep spray. Smells good, does it's job, I guess. Then I did my touch up. I ordered a Dr Colorchip kit as everything I found online looked great. The paint match is dead-on. For individual spots, I'd go with the blob/sand/clear method as it's the best, but I had so much road rash in the front after 250k, I'd rather repaint it than hit them all one at a time. Then a real quick second prep wipe, and coated with McKees 37 SiO2 ceramic coating. I've been pretty old school with my LSPs, favoring oily carnubas or sealants like KSG. This was my first shot with a coating. I figured, with the abuse the truck gets, I may as well try the most durable protection. This was on sale and I liked the cheapish price (~$40?) for a first attempt. It goes on easy, comes off with a little elbow grease. It did a great job literally 'adding gloss' to portions of the lower cladding with failing, faded clear coat. I'm really impressed here, and am looking forward to seeing how it holds up. Tomorrow after 24 hours of curing I'll wash it again and hit it with their SiO2 booster spray.
Someone will ask:
Started with a stripper wash. Then Black Fire iron remover. Then I used my nano-skin pad on my PC to 'clay' the whole truck. These are cool if you've clayed the vehicle recently, but not as effective (IMO) if paint is really contaminated. In my case, it was relatively clean in that respect. I used 3D One hybrid compound/polish on mainly buff 'n shine MF cutting and polishing pads. My first time using either of these. The 3DO goes from removing sanding marks down to final polishing, just swap your pads to decrease cutting power. Really, really nice product. I did find that my PC didn't have the nuts to remove the sanding marks without taking forever, so I bumped to my Makita rotary for those spots. I did the whole truck twice, basically. Once with the cutters and once with the polishers. Next was a prep wipe with Gyeon Q2M prep spray. Smells good, does it's job, I guess. Then I did my touch up. I ordered a Dr Colorchip kit as everything I found online looked great. The paint match is dead-on. For individual spots, I'd go with the blob/sand/clear method as it's the best, but I had so much road rash in the front after 250k, I'd rather repaint it than hit them all one at a time. Then a real quick second prep wipe, and coated with McKees 37 SiO2 ceramic coating. I've been pretty old school with my LSPs, favoring oily carnubas or sealants like KSG. This was my first shot with a coating. I figured, with the abuse the truck gets, I may as well try the most durable protection. This was on sale and I liked the cheapish price (~$40?) for a first attempt. It goes on easy, comes off with a little elbow grease. It did a great job literally 'adding gloss' to portions of the lower cladding with failing, faded clear coat. I'm really impressed here, and am looking forward to seeing how it holds up. Tomorrow after 24 hours of curing I'll wash it again and hit it with their SiO2 booster spray.
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Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I recently ordered the recommended clamps from McMaster Carr, and they fit great. Much more secure than a zip tie. McMaster part numbers 5574K25 and 5574K16.
Just drove it abt 20 miles. First 20 miles at the hardest/sportiest setting and it was way too bouncy. My heart sank thinking that $700 and 5 hours of labor were all for naught.
Then switched to mid setting (4 clicks back) and it made all the difference in the world. It is very composed on highway and fairly compliant on our broken and patched streets.
I am planning to post more thoughts once I have a bit more miles on this set.
Then switched to mid setting (4 clicks back) and it made all the difference in the world. It is very composed on highway and fairly compliant on our broken and patched streets.
I am planning to post more thoughts once I have a bit more miles on this set.
A little birdy told me that setting them down pretty low (like 2-4 clicks from 0) feels really nice.
I can confirm, it feels really nice. Cushy for sure. Wallows like an old Cadillac. I keep mine at like 5-6 I think.
Nice job. I’ve never used McKees coatings but most coatings I use recommend not washing the vehicle for a week. May want to look into it further before washing the truck immediately after the cure period.
Painted the bumper and installed it this morning.
Thanks. I'll double check that. I think I'd read 24 hours for this one, could be wrong. I mainly want to rinse the residues out of the cracks where towels don't go.
Did you cut the tabs off the ARB? I just installed mine and I removed the grill brackets so when I open or close I push the grill in. I was about to cut the tabs but decided to try this for sometime.
