What does a "Top End" job imply? (1 Viewer)

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I have my 81 2F motor out of truck and considering removing the head and taking it to NAPA to have reworked. That being said I don't really understand what is being reworked.

What exactly is a "Top End" job?

What steps do I need to take before removing the head?

i.e. Do I need to align some timing mark on crank gear etc.


Im sure this is a aggrevating question to you Master Mechanics, but it's not my expertise. Thanks in advance....
 
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in my little world
remove head and take to napa thats all. if you take it to a motor builder shop you can always have them do a little extra for hp since its already off as in port it, when you take it apart make sure you get the push rods and what ever esle back in the same spot. the push rods are mated to the lifters. unless the cams on top
 
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You could align to TDC on the compression stroke. Do a search. Remove the tension on the valves that are depressed (loosen rocker adjustment). Remove the rocker assy. per manual. Take a block of wood and drill 12 holes in a row. Number the wood 1 to 12 and pull the push rods and stick them in the holes. Put the wood block someplace where it won't tip over.;)
Loosen the head bolts in order per the manual.

2X with 1911, top end job is rings. Lower end is bearings. Head job is rebuilding the head.
 
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You don't need to align any timing marks to do a valve job on a 2F because it is push rod design with the cam in the block.
 
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If you're getting a quote (or have been offered a certain price) for a "top end job" then be wary because it can mean different things to different people and gives them too many options to rip you off.

Ask them to be specific on what they intend to do and on what their price actually covers and doesn't cover.

My 2c.
 
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When someone tells me they are doing a "top end" job... I would think that meant pistons, rings, and a head rebuild. Leaving the "Bottom end'" crank and bearings alone. I am a old dirt-bike guy so maybe I am screwed up.:meh:
 
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I think what I need is a head job. No pun intended.:hmm:

But I will replace rings while I'm in there. If after I pull the head the cylinder walls are scored then I guess I will go balls out and rebuild the whole shooting match. I did inspect the lower bearings and they appeared to be fine.

Can the cylinder walls be honed without removing the crank and pistons?

I have an older thread where I posted pictures of the bearings and it was the consensus of many to just run them. That being said the pushrods and rocker arm assembly look pretty black as if oil hadn't been changed often by P.O. Or is that normal?

I see pictures of others engines and they seem much cleaner and shiny, not like what I've found. Also, I failed to run a compression check before removing motor. I am a self described amatuer.
 
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Once you get in there you can determine the life of the rings by how much ridge you have at the top of the cylinders. No honing until the pistons come out, the crank can stay in. Black on rockers is typical, lower quality oil will give more.
 
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Ahh, now i get it. I was trying to do everything from the top in my head !

Since now I 90% from total rebuild, is there something to look for when visually inspecting crank?
 

1911

chupacabra
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Today I called a fairly well known Land Cruiser vendor in my area and asked for name of good mechanic to do a valve job in my 2F head. He immediately suggested I not fool with it unless i was prepared to do a complete rebuild.
:bang:
His thought was if I freshen up the valves and head but use old pistons and rings I ran a very high chance of blowing the motor with weak lower end components. So unless I'm willing ti spend the Jack on complete overhaul then it's not worth doing anything at all.

So now I'm back to just running the motor!
 

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