Are you thinking about lifting the car up from a ditch or just a tire change, in terms of being adequate?
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (169 Viewers)
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Are you thinking about lifting the car up from a ditch or just a tire change, in terms of being adequate?
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
I've been a busy bee chasing a snap in the front end when its under steering load or articulation. Replaced the steering damper and bracket (original one was bent badly), I also replaced both ball joints with OEM joints on the steering tie rod... the snap is still there, I think it might be in the tie rod between the tires or a spring but IDK at this point. I might put the gopro under the truck and try to zero in on the issue. Its obvious that I still have some leaks huh?
I also replaced the lower control arms (bent the stock ones on the chinaman's gulch run) in the rear with some wicked SPC 3/16" DOM control arms from Mr. Slee they have ball joints on the axle side for extra flex. And my drivers side rear wheel bearings grenaded themselves so I am waiting on seals and bearings from Mr. T.
I also replaced the lower control arms (bent the stock ones on the chinaman's gulch run) in the rear with some wicked SPC 3/16" DOM control arms from Mr. Slee they have ball joints on the axle side for extra flex. And my drivers side rear wheel bearings grenaded themselves so I am waiting on seals and bearings from Mr. T.
Check your front radius arm bolts. A friend of mine had a seruious "POP" that would happen that we were chasing. Turned out to be bolts on the lower radius arms on the front that were not adequately tightened after his lift. He had to re-torque all of them and found two that were fairly loose.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
60 inch is the way to go, especially if you have at least a 4 inch lift or larger and 35s. I have a 4 inch Slee and 315's on my rig now and when I was trying to lift it off of the ground, it was almost over half way up the Jack. You will need every bit of a 48 inch Jack to get a cruiser off the ground.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Good question really. For general purposes a 48" would be fine 98% of the time.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Been getting my 1994 FZJ-80 in perfect mechanical condition all winter prior to a planned hunting trip. I just returned from a 2400+ mile trip through Western Alberta and into Western British Columbia. This was a trip to do a spring black bear hunt. Although, I never had a chance to pull the trigger, the 80 performed perfectly. I literally did not have one single issue with the vehicle and it was wonderful. I have included a photo below as a small example of the country I toured through with this wonderful vehicle.
So, just now, angry at not being able to adjust my driver side headlight vertically, I removed the adjustment screw mechanism completely and used a needlenose vice grips coming in through the back of the assembly, in front of the battery to grip the little slotted thingy and finally turned the lamp up where it belongs. I was just about to pay $$$ to buy a new headlamp assembly too, when I thought up this fix.
It's counter-clockwise to go up and clockwise to go down, btw.
It's counter-clockwise to go up and clockwise to go down, btw.
I don't have that big of a lift.
Got the measuring tape out to estimate what lift I need.
The 48" lift only goes up to 37.5 - 38.5".
I have the ARB front bumper. If I get the "Lift-mate" attached to the hi-lift and the bumper, plus an estimated 4" suspension travel before the tire comes off the ground, I think I only have about 1" left for the tire to clear the ground. Of course these are rough estimates after 1.5 pints of Mojito.
I think the 60" would be better. Or get the Hi-Lift Jack Mate http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...spx?t_c=18&t_s=190&t_pt=10044&t_pn=ARB3500040 or the Slee Jac-Kof Tool http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_jackof_detail.htm
which both will give me more travel with the 48" lift.
This is all based on pavement of course. Off road things might changed a bit.
Get the 60" I can not get my wheels off the ground with 2" lift and 33".
The front almost the rear no ways.
The front almost the rear no ways.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Installed some new to me wheels....
It's a $30 difference between the 48 and the 60... Get the 60" Hi-Lift X-TREME !!The 48 is fine most of the time.
As mentioned, check your radius arm bolts/nuts for proper torque, but also check your track/panhard bar bolts - they are a likely source of popping as well.
Eliminate the suspension travel by ratchet-strapping the axle to the frame before you jack the truck up... then the 48" will be fine. Hi-Lifts are unsafe enough, so the less you have to raise the truck the better.
Went out see how the J's and 35's will play out. Some rubbing on all the flares. They will definitely come off before Rubithon before they take themselves out! Lol.
I couldn't do 4wheelling so I did 3 instead...
I couldn't do 4wheelling so I did 3 instead...
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Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Let us know when you figure out what the noise is from. I've got a pretty serious clunk from my front end as well when turning (usually just when turning while stationary). I've checked the panhards, but I'll be checking the radius arms tonight.I've been a busy bee chasing a snap in the front end when its under steering load or articulation. Replaced the steering damper and bracket (original one was bent badly), I also replaced both ball joints with OEM joints on the steering tie rod... the snap is still there, I think it might be in the tie rod between the tires or a spring but IDK at this point. I might put the gopro under the truck and try to zero in on the issue. Its obvious that I still have some leaks huh?
I also replaced the lower control arms (bent the stock ones on the chinaman's gulch run) in the rear with some wicked SPC 3/16" DOM control arms from Mr. Slee they have ball joints on the axle side for extra flex. And my drivers side rear wheel bearings grenaded themselves so I am waiting on seals and bearings from Mr. T.
