What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (69 Viewers)

[surfpig]

Absolutely going with OEM. The air con belt doesn't look very bad. All 3 belts were replaced spring of 2021 approximately 40,000 miles ago. I want to go ahead and replace them all but being on a budget sucks

I don't know the p/n, but are the two idler pullies the same? I have a '97 as well, so I'm curious. If I recall, if one of them seizes up, people just remove them, at least temporarily, and just tighten up the belts a bit. No biggie.

When I had my FJ55, I would carry an extra belt for when the smog pump seized up, because they suck, and I could just bypass it. LOL

 

[Surfdc]

Continued brake work after new booster and mc last weekend.
Hit a couple dirt lots then actuated the abs via a thread I found on here. Worked well since I dd my 80 and live in an urban area.
Then replaced my LSPV as it was found faulty according to the fsm. Then reassembled spring with rebuild kit (04477-60010).
Then added @landtank drop kit but only installed the frame side not the axle as guided my Rick as my lift is barely 2”. Then Bled. Now to test drive!

 

[ofer bruhis]

A few more photos
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Sunrise at 11,000ft
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Red beans and rice with fresh grouse breast
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On a tech related note I have been getting a noise on and off that sounded belt or pulley related all summer. Everytime I tried to find it with the stethoscope it would go away. The A/C didn't seem to affect it either. Well today it was bad and it sounded like it was coming from the A/C area.

I got home a few hours ago and I went ahead and pulled the A/C belt and idler pulley. I am pretty sure I found the problem.



Anyone got a part # handy for a new A/C idler pulley for a 97?

Also, what's the recommended service interval for belts?

Thanks

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=8844026090

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I don't know the p/n, but are the two idler pullies the same? I have a '97 as well, so I'm curious. If I recall, if one of them seizes up, people just remove them, at least temporarily, and just tighten up the belts a bit. No biggie.

When I had my FJ55, I would carry an extra belt for when the smog pump seized up, because they suck, and I could just bypass it. LOL

Two different pulleys for sure.

88440-26090 appears to be the part # for the AC belt idler pulley.

16603-66010 should be for the alternator belt idler pulley.

I found all 3 belts and both pulleys on fleabay for $160.00 shipped.

I hesitate to use ebay for parts anymore because of all the counterfeit crap. Although I make sure to find sellers with great feedback and no reports of counterfeit parts in their negative feedback.

 

[ERG80]

Anyone got a part # handy for a new A/C idler pulley for a 97?

Also, what's the recommended service interval for belts?

Thanks

I replaced the bearing in the idler with an nsk 6301. Works perfectly and has been quiet. I believe I got the info here:

Just generally looking over the engine compartment this morning and reached down to spin the A/C tensioner pulley. It didn't make any noise BUT it spun a bit too freely meaning the bearing was low on grease or the grease had migrated away from the ball bearings and dried up.

I don't remember having replaced the bearing or pulley in the 20 years I've had my Cruiser so....off it came for a clean up and new bearing.

A definite plus of not living in the rust belt...is that parts are normally easy to remove and nuts and bolts, etc....can just be wiped down and reused. I'll put a light coat of paint on the pulley and install the new bearing when it comes in.

I have the bearing ordered.....but for those needing to replace theirs...I can save you the trouble of looking it up:

NSK 6301 DDU (12mm x 37mm x 12mm). It is a deep groove bearing with seals on both sides.

Just remove the snap ring that retains it, turn the pulley over, tap it out with a drift punch.

View attachment 2339776


Edit: Something in the back of my mind (tiny as it is) was telling me I already had a 'spare' tensioner pulley. So I got to looking around in my parts box and sure enough...there it was. Oh well....I will put this one on and still have a 'spare' when the new bearing comes in. Why didn't my mind 'nag' me BEFORE I pulled this one apart.

View attachment 2339880

Maybe I should check and see if I've got a Spare Land Cruiser back there someplace. The older you get the worse your 'CRS' gets.

 

[suzuguru]

My 80 is still down for a full engine rebuild. I'm having total cruiser withdrawal, especially this time of year. So..... I went out and bought something to tide me over. Don't flame me for it. Some Jeeps need love too.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I replaced the bearing in the idler with an nsk 6301. Works perfectly and has been quiet. I believe I got the info here:

I did that same thing to an idler pulley on my 91 and it failed 6 months later. I guess all bearings are not equal. And now I live in the middle of nowhere with no access to a press or a bearing shop. I will just get a new pulley this time but thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Alexh85]

Cant complain, the first thing to wear out on my 1HDFT is the throttle cable

 

[ofer bruhis]

Cant complain, the first thing to wear out on my 1HDFT is the throttle cable
View attachment 3743976

Get a few. This engine will last a few cables. It was designed at Toyota finest hour. Best engine they ever made.

 

[jpoole]

@suzuguru nice M38. My 2nd vehicle, behind my 80, is an M38 and I'm a big fan of both. Lot's of connections between the old flat fender jeeps as inspiration for the early LandCruisers per my understanding as well. I look at the M38 as the best of the flat fenders and the 80 as the best of the evolved full-time engaged, solid front axle platform.

 

[jpoole]

Checked my nuts after noticing some seepage when inspecting and adding grease to the knuckles.

The paint marks on the nuts all still lined up but a gentle knuckle nut torque test revealed a failed knuckle stud. A little heat, reverse drilling and extractor luck allowed relatively easy stud replacement until I have time to do a full service and stud replacement.

 

[Surfdc]

Checked my nuts after noticing some seepage when inspecting and adding grease to the knuckles.

The paint marks on the nuts all still lined up but a gentle knuckle nut torque test revealed a failed knuckle stud. A little heat, reverse drilling and extractor luck allowed relatively easy stud replacement until I have time to do a full service and stud replacement.
View attachment 3744074

Always good to check yer nuts. Might l suggest this nifty doodad for your bottle jack-

LCP - Jack Adapters

Check out the 3rd generation jack adapters we are currently selling with the zinc finish for long-lasting durability!

sites.google.com

 

[jpoole]

@Surfdc Thanks, I have one of those tucked in with the factory jack, should have dug it out...

 

[jfz80]

How thick is the housing. I’m welding some gussets and a diff plate and wasn’t sure how thick the housing material was.

Sorry Joe. Had to pickup some batteries for the calipers. Not as thin as I had thought.

5mm

shoot me a message if you need other spots. No real plan to cut open further but can if needed.

 

[AK Troutbum]

Cant complain, the first thing to wear out on my 1HDFT is the throttle cable
View attachment 3743976

Oh hell, there's plenty of life left there! I wouldn't replace it until it starts giving you problems.

 

[JoeCova]

Sorry Joe. Had to pickup some batteries for the calipers. Not as thin as I had thought.

5mm

shoot me a message if you need other spots. No real plan to cut open further but can if needed.

View attachment 3744592

View attachment 3744594

Awesome thank you. Agreed I was expecting it to be thinner.

 

[GORDA91]

Left in the garage and took my new Colorado ZR2 on shakedown trip to Colorado.

 

[efjayatee]

Please be aware:

I shipped my 80 to Colorado last week using Xpress Auto and to let folks know that Transport fees have VERY little difference in real price from one shipper to another. Those ULTRA LOW prices are just BAIT and SWITCH. They lure you in, get you to agree to a non-refundable deposit to trap you and then raise the price in the last minutes. This happend to me.

 

[davidp14]

Please be aware:

I shipped my 80 to Colorado last week using Xpress Auto and to let folks know that Transport fees have VERY little difference in real price from one shipper to another. Those ULTRA LOW prices are just BAIT and SWITCH. They lure you in, get you to agree to a non-refundable deposit to trap you and then raise the price in the last minutes. This happend to me

@Beach80

 

[Beach80]

Good times