What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (71 Viewers)

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Fit these 5.5" Infinity speakers in all 4 doors. Fronts clear the dash by a playing card. Tight fit🍑
Note: It does clear the chrome trim on the front door

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Parts list:
Infinity Primus 5.25" 2-Way Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP5TFRW
Silicon Baffles for water protection: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJY2ZH4G
1/2" Spacers for window/regulator clearance: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGPHT9P?th=1
Generic grills: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXLFJNLT?th=1
 
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Fj80oregon said:
Take it easy on that motor with all that new powerrrrr!!!
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Easier said than done...lol...but yes, took it pretty easy as most of the time it was just cruising at speed (60-75 mph) for the trip back home. Having a quality engine rebuild married up with a quality turbo and other enhancements is living the dream! Thanks Wes!
 
highsierra4x4 said:
How do you like those seats? Do the sit lower than factory?
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Coming from a guy with some hardware in his spine, I think they’re fantastic. I’ve had a hellacious week with some back pain, but I found a way to do 5+ hours to cover 11 miles on the trail yesterday regardless.

I’m using Planted seat brackets. Check ‘em out.
 
spazzyfry123 said:
View attachment 3713336

Coming from a guy with some hardware in his spine, I think they’re fantastic. I’ve had a hellacious week with some back pain, but I found a way to do 5+ hours to cover 11 miles on the trail yesterday regardless.

I’m using Planted seat brackets. Check ‘em out.
Click to expand...

I have the Scheel-Mann seats and Planted brackets as well since I have a really bad lower spine issue along with going in for hip replacement surgery in 2 days, and I wasn't sore or cramped at all during the entire drive back from the Overland Expo Mountain West event outside of Denver to my home in Albuquerque which is a ~7 hour drive. Same for my 6 hour one-way drives to Moab; they are a bit pricey but well worth it if you value comfort as well as feeling planted in the seat when off-roading.
 
texfj80 said:
Fit these 5.5" Infinity speakers in all 4 doors. Fronts clear the dash by a playing card. Tight fit🍑
Note: It does clear the chrome trim on the front door

mk6y6M9.jpeg


eeHh8Qr.jpeg


2K1TyyL.jpeg


sGYdodo.jpeg



Parts list:
Infinity Primus 5.25" 2-Way Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP5TFRW
Silicon Baffles for water protection: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJY2ZH4G
1/2" Spacers for window/regulator clearance: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGPHT9P?th=1
Generic grills: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXLFJNLT?th=1
Click to expand...
This is what I need to do! Thanks for the parts list. Are you planning on replacing any of the other speakers, and how do the new ones sound? Also, is this with the stock stereo?
 
efjayatee said:
Do you gain anything when it's bored over in this case?
Click to expand...
You gain displacement makes it a 4.6 but hard to tell if it’s noticeable. You also gain some compression because of shaving the block .003 thousandths or whatever it takes to get it flat. You can definitely tell it has more pep but that could be because everything is new and tight.
 
HighDesert Dawg said:
I have the Scheel-Mann seats and Planted brackets as well since I have a really bad lower spine issue along with going in for hip replacement surgery in 2 days, and I wasn't sore or cramped at all during the entire drive back from the Overland Expo Mountain West event outside of Denver to my home in Albuquerque which is a ~7 hour drive. Same for my 6 hour one-way drives to Moab; they are a bit pricey but well worth it if you value comfort as well as feeling planted in the seat when off-roading.
Click to expand...
I have one also and it is the best money spent for comfort hands down. You get what you pay for on this one.
 
Fj80oregon said:
You gain displacement makes it a 4.6 but hard to tell if it’s noticeable. You also gain some compression because of shaving the block .003 thousandths or whatever it takes to get it flat. You can definitely tell it has more pep but that could be because everything is new and tight.
Click to expand...
If you are looking to make more power go forced induction, but if you want to stay naturally aspirated I believe Crower Cams makes cams for both naturally aspirated and turbo cams.
 
AK Troutbum said:
This is what I need to do! Thanks for the parts list. Are you planning on replacing any of the other speakers, and how do the new ones sound? Also, is this with the stock stereo?
Click to expand...

The under-dash tweeters and 3rd row pair fine. I popped off the covers and they look... newer than normal for 30 years old, but not aftermarket.

New speakers sound great, better than the old Kenwoods it had ( same as here but age / weather got to them: 80 Series Speaker Upgrade - The Final Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-speaker-upgrade-the-final-thread.481148/ )

Couple notes:
-Previous owner installed a Kenwood stereo (I replaced w/ this: https://www.amazon.com/Double-Stereo-Compatible-Control-Carplay/dp/B08SM9N9DG/ ). Why? $139 and I can mount an under-carriage camera for crawling + my normal backup camera. It's $139, so if it dies - it dies and I buy another. Also has Waze so I don't really need a phone mount anymore)
-It's running off, from what I can tell, the stock wiring... They sound great especially with the silicon baffles installed (had to trim the silicon a bit).
-Speakers are just running of the headunit for now. I have a spare 1000w amp sitting around but don't care to install mega-stereo equipment in my LC. P/O cut the stock sub/amp I believe.
-My doors were previously tapped for 5 1/4" speakers... You might need to drill & grab some 1 5/8" self tapping screws to secure the speakers.

These are loud, whole-sounding, and an upgrade. The speakers were $79 when I ordered on Amazon.

For under $300 it was worth it. (speakers, baffles, spacers, grills, deck). I grew up in an earlier time where this stuff would cost $1000~ lol


Headunit pic (not perfect but I'm not pulling the trim off again to adjust for milimeters):
112-jpg.3502636
 
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ERG80 said:
Almost two years after installing the new lift I took the cruiser in for an alignment/caster reading to see how things looked. Not bad.
These are dobinsons C59-170/171 springs
Landtank 2.5” caster plates.
I did the toolsrus alignment in the driveway not long after getting new tires.
Bottom of Fender flare to center hub measurements are now:
LF 23”
RF 23.5”
LR 24”
RR 24.25”

I do have a decel groan with this combo. I had it with a stock driveshafts/new ujoints. And still have it with a front Landtank double cardan. Any ideas on what I should check next?

View attachment 3693377
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I was able to fix the decel groan. I was sure it was the front shaft or axle because the sound sure seemed to be coming from the right front of the vehicle but It was the rear driveshaft all along. I pulled the rear shaft and drove around and everything was smooth.

To fix the groan I pulled the rear upper control arms (rear drive shaft still removed) and used an angle finder to match the angle of the rear diff flange to the output flange of the transfer case. I cut and welded the arms about 3/8” shorter to keep the angles matched. Then I installed a new “rear engine isolator” mount I had in my stash. Then I cleaned the extra grease from the rear driveshaft slip yoke so it wasn’t under vacuum when extending or pressurized with shortening.

I just knew the test drive would be buttery smooth after the work. I Jumped in the cruiser very excited and had started the drive. There was a horrible vibration at low speeds which got worse as I sped up so I slowed way down and limped home feeling very sad. I parked and started thinking about what expensive things I would have to try next.

I crawled back under the cruiser and noticed I put the shaft together out of phase like a factory front. Doh! Rotated the yoke and drove it again. I got up to 80mph without vibes while accelerating or decelerating.
 
Learned what this metal thing is for in the Toyota FIPG boxes! For 5 years I have seen them and throw them away, never really thought about it. Then today when sealing a timing cover it caught my eye and clicked. No SH!T it’s for squeezing out the sealant. Every last expensive drop. I’m sure everyone already knew this and never thought to share the secret.

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Fj80oregon said:
Learned what this metal thing is for in the Toyota FIPG boxes! For 5 years I have seen them and throw them away, never really thought about it. Then today when sealing a timing cover it caught my eye and clicked. No SH!T it’s for squeezing out the sealant. Every last expensive drop. I’m sure everyone already knew this and never thought to share the secret.

View attachment 3714815

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View attachment 3714818
Click to expand...

It also helps to control rate of flow.


We just did a trans pan and my daughter opens the box and goes "dad this is fancy. It has a thing to roll the tube up"
 
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