What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (50 Viewers)

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Got my engine back together. Runs like a dream, first time ever taking an engine so far apart and putting it all back together. Can't wait to throw some more mods on the truck and go for a rip.

1HD-FT
Gturbo Red Wheel
ARP Head Studs
ADS Injection +40% Injectors
ADS Injection 300Hp 590FtLbs Injection Pump

 
Sounds like there was a parasitic load that drained the battery while it was sitting. It should be able to sit for much longer than three weeks without an issue unless the battery is toast and won't hold a charge.

Once its back in action I'd pull the negative battery cable and use a multimeter (between the battery negative terminal and the battery cable) to measure current while everything is off to see if this is the case. If you are seeing anything above 50 milliamps then start working through the circuits (pulling fuses) to see what is the cause.

Oh and if the battery is really low that trickle charger won't bring it back in any reasonable amount of time (it's probably only a few amps output max). You'll need a much larger unit.

Some notes for the Odyssey battery regarding a trickle charger on a dead battery (summary: it won't do much):

https://www.odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/docs/us-ody-tm.pdf

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An AGM battery won't have an issue taking a real charge. If you have a 30A charger available (maybe a neighbor has one you can use) I'd put it on overnight to bring it back up to the proper voltage. You can also jump start the cruiser and have the alternator do the work but it will take much longer and you'll need to stay at a higher rpm to really provide a full charge (long freeway drive).

As @Broski said something is amiss for it to go flat in three weeks. Even a small parasitic draw adds up over time.

The guy at the parts store doesn't know s***. I work for Interstate and the AGM batteries last the longest between charges. Our route drivers pull batteries after sitting on the shelf for 120 days. Most of the flooded batteries need a charge and load tested. The AGM batteries both Interstate and Optima have a long shelf life. I pulled one the other day and the voltage was 12.2 but had been sitting on the shelf since February. After a charge and check the battery passed a voltage and load test, exceeding the 950 CCA rating.

I use a NOCO trickle charger for my batteries, but have yet to use it in a while.

So yesterday morning the truck was completely dead with nothing registering on the dash, no voltage on the dash, no interior lights, no horn, no door locks.


24 hrs on the $18 dollar Napa special charger and I hooked the battery back up and it fired right up this morning.
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Than I saw this. Definitely new to my knowledge and I am sure this is the culprit.

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I am going for a long drive now and than I will remove the bulb until spring 🤣
 
Got my engine back together. Runs like a dream, first time ever taking an engine so far apart and putting it all back together. Can't wait to throw some more mods on the truck and go for a rip.

1HD-FT
Gturbo Red Wheel
ARP Head Studs
ADS Injection +40% Injectors
ADS Injection 300Hp 590FtLbs Injection Pump


Nice work! Don’t that feel great?
 
Got my engine back together. Runs like a dream, first time ever taking an engine so far apart and putting it all back together. Can't wait to throw some more mods on the truck and go for a rip.

1HD-FT
Gturbo Red Wheel
ARP Head Studs
ADS Injection +40% Injectors
ADS Injection 300Hp 590FtLbs Injection Pump


That's awesome man. Stoked for ya.

Do you have a contact at ADS? I need to have my pump redone. Good experience with them?
 
That's awesome man. Stoked for ya.

Do you have a contact at ADS? I need to have my pump redone. Good experience with them?
Yea I talked to Mick. Best way to get into contact with them is by phone. Email either takes forever or dont respond. Nothing but good things to say about them though. Very helpful through the whole process.
 
Got my new radius arms in and went to replace 3 of my ARP hub studs. Well aparently the other 3 were broken just hadnt fallen out yet. Managed to snap all 6 ARP studs and completely wallow out my wheel hub dowel holes. Was able to find a new (Used) wheel hub locally. Will install all that back tomorrow and throw in the new Chromoly wheel bearing nuts and inspected the other side. Then the truck will be ready for a test drive finally.




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Link to your build thread?
I dont have a build thread but I just watched a bunch of your channel and subscribed. We have almost the same cruiser. Im on 40s and dented up body lol. Ive also been holding on to a large bottle of green metal flake and you might have convinced me to finally use it. Ive had it for probably 15 years
 
I dont have a build thread but I just watched a bunch of your channel and subscribed. We have almost the same cruiser. Im on 40s and dented up body lol. Ive also been holding on to a large bottle of green metal flake and you might have convinced me to finally use it. Ive had it for probably 15 years
Do it!!! Metal flake is cool as funk. Also it simply does not sparkle on video like it sparkles in person.
 
I wish I could buy your old one, but I know shipping would be insane.
I have always wanted a shortbus but it was also the shipping that prohibited that. The main reason for going with this bar is that the old one was not winch compatible and not too many options for a good looking bar here. Old one is on the market for 200 if that would help.
 
Weekend shenanigans
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