What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (51 Viewers)

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We stayed at a rental cabin with friends this weekend near Byrd's Adventure Center. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to tackle the park's off-road trails, but did find some nearby forest roads that provided scenery and a few light technical obstacles. We made it back in time to smoke a tri-tip, enjoy some drinks, and put on a movie.

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Well I bit the bullet after the inner axle seal started leaking…. the job so far is comparable to birthing a calf.

From what I can tell, I dont think they have ever been serviced before. Passenger side looks good (but replacing the bearings/seals/wipers). Driver’s side axle bearings were very dark/discolored and confirmed the inner axle seal was torn.

Thoughts on whether the half-shalf/CV’s should be replaced since its showing some discoloraration where the bearings roll inside? (CV bearings seam solid but have slight discoloration)

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Consider pulling the 3rd member and resealing the front diff while you have the axles out (the axle shafts have to come out to pull the diff).

Mine is currently leaking and its something I wish I did in 2018 when I completed the steering knuckle service. Now I need to pull everything back apart to properly seal a leaking front diff :confused:

Also if you haven't planned on it already be sure to replace the rotor and wheel bearings since its all torn apart.
 
New hood for my LX450 arrived from Rock Auto!

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Closer inspection shows some damage to the rear lip and corner in several places, all probably fixable. I hate truck shipping.

But that isn't the biggest issue with the hood....

It is for a 1998 and later...View attachment 3509081
Checked my order, and I did indeed ordered the correct year.

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RockAuto just let me know that they are giving me a full refund, including shipping. I get to keep the hood. Although, what am I going to do with a slightly damaged 100 series/LX470 hood? 🤔

Finally installing the rear Dobinson CVT C97-147VT rear coils and IMS59 shocks today. I already have the front installed. Coils are for a 2.5" lift. I had OME 2" heavies before.

I am questioning if I can drive it out of the garage when I am done with the LS Swap.... 😜
 
We had a break in the weather, and I was able to a few things done.

Replaced the rear hatch lock actuator.
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Pulled the lock cylinder for new keys.
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Test fit a new base plate my future drawer unit.
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Fit my first billet manual rear hatch lock pull.
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Test fit a new tailgate handle to make sure the spline was good. Should have a couple billet ones shortly.
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Swollen to perfection probably wasn’t even leaking! Man get a table for those poor camshafts laying on the shop floor!😁
They might fall off a table. They won't fall far where they are plus they have some nice cozy amazon cardboard to rest on. :)
 
Do you have a reference or some notes how you wired the locker to that type of oem switch and how you made the dashboard light go on when the locker is in use?
You've caught me out now 😅 All work was done with my mechanic friend and he's the real wizard. I'll ask him how it was done, but the gist of it is the plug for the dial is present on all 80 series behind the filler plate as well as the relays behind the front passenger kick panel (for an Australian right hand drive, I assume the relays are still located front-left if its left hand drive). The dash lights are missing bulbs but otherwise present and wired in on the dash. The factory lockers use a worm screw and have limit switches to sense when they are fully locked in or wound out - these are not required with an E-Locker which is either on or off, with no in between. So there are a lot of wires that are not required. The front or rear locker won't engage unless the center diff is locked first.
 
yeah, for the whole assembly: 19100-66020
the housing ((19235-66020)which has all of the corroded parts) is NLA :(
Might be time for you to learn to shop around.
 
Couldn't find a relevant thread to share this, but got the repair estimate today. Of course, irrelevant to their valuation of the truck, but came back just shy of $28,000. So, yeah, she's certainly totaled!
Settlement amount was posted. Not what I expected. If anyone with experience has an opinion on where the numbers "should" be, feel free to share...

*Note I didn't say I feel like got lowballed.

Buyback is $400
 
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Settlement amount was posted. Not what I expected. If anyone with experience has an opinion on where the numbers "should" be, feel free to message me... I'm curious of other opinions

*Note I didn't say I got lowballed.

Buyback is $400
$28k is what my buddy got from insurance when he totaled his 80 over the summer. 160k mile low rust well documented cruiser. They offered less at first and he went back and forth to get more for it. They ended up using BAT as comparable comps.
 

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