What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (58 Viewers)

[efjayatee]

Livermore!

You local?

Yes sir and local.
And highly recommend "The Rear End" shop. The owner Barry is a cool guy.

 

[SNLC]

I took it wheeling and 🏕

Cheers

 

[BILT4ME]

Did most of my 100,000 miles service. (Actually at 97,307)

Currently at 314900 miles (I have put on about 118700 miles since I've owned it. That's a 9 year average of 13,188 miles/year. In 2014 it sat for three months after it blew the radiator and I gathered parts and went through it front to back. That's when it became my DD, basically in late November of 2014.

Changed front differential oil (2.8 qt 80W-90 MasterPro GL-5 gear oil)
Changed rear differential oil (3.4 qt 80W-90 MasterPro GL-5 gear oil)
Changed Transfer Case oil (1.8 qt half 75W-90 and half 75W-140 Royal Purple GL-5 gear oil) (because I had it)
Added 3/4 tube Valvoline Palladium to each front knuckle (I had started to notice some clicking in tight turns)
Greased all 4 u-joints
Greased both DS yokes
Installed new intake hose between air filter and throttle body
Installed new Denso Spark Plugs (Gapped 0.031", torqued to 15 LB-FT)
Installed new Spark Plug Wires (Toyota)
Installed new distributor cap (Toyota)
Installed new rotor assembly (Toyota)

I inspected the rear of my valve cover seal and it is still dry.
I inspected my spark plug tube seals and they are still dry.
My belts are squeaking again but...
I see I have some oil drips on the front lower part of the transmission bell housing. I am assuming these are from the upper oil pan arch seal needing to be done. IDK if it has ever been done. PO did the HG at 145K and did it the right way.

Next service items will be cooling system maintenance with mostly new hoses, heater valve replacement, rear heater hard line bypass, PHH, and all the other cooling hoses I can swap. Also will be T-Stat, gasket, and triple O-Rings on t-stat bypass or whatever that is behind the t-stat housing that leaks.

I'm due for new crush sleeves and pinion seals on F/R differentials, and I already own them, I just cannot find them. I will install my new rear DS when I find them and do the seals.
I am also due for caster plates and a rear control rod lift bracket, before I get my new tires.

I need new tires. My 285/75-16 Duratracs have served me well for that 97,307 miles. I think I got my money's worth out of them.

When I do the tires and those things, I will also do the fuel filter under the intake manifold. I need to psyche myself up for that one.
Also new engine mounts and that will complete my driveline rubber replacement since I've owned the truck.

I'm happy with the look of my old spark plugs. Bottom of the pic is #6, then up to #1, in order. Looks like the front 3 are running slightly leaner than the back 3. The gap was well over 0.050" A little darker on #6 might be where I'm getting my regular P0401 code. All-in-all, it tells me that my engine is healthy. I don't burn any oil on 6000+ miles oil changes, and I know where my coolant is leaking (externally).

 

[WhitePhoenix]

Went on a mini weekend trip to see a friend in ATL. Well around Auburn I noticed that my AC started to run slower. Looked down and got my voltage gauge fluctuating and than holding around the middle position. Saw my ultragauge showing just under 12V running to it. Time to turn off literally everything I could to preserve the battery. Alternator started to kinda work once I got off the highway due to a big slowdown/wreck. That bought me some time to charge up the battery and make it all the way. I prob went 90 miles on battery alone (showing right at 11V at the lowest point when I noticed roughly after some minutes with AC, radio and other crap on), then it magically fixed itself for a quick charge for 15 mins back up to 11.5V and than another 50 miles of battery alone. Was racing to beat sunset and made it right as sunset occurred. For anyone curious, walmart battery from 7/19. I of course had a new alternator brush at home but from the PO, the alternator was replaced only a few years ago and the brush looked just fine (denso as well). Well quick call to NAPA and new Denso in a few hours later. Wasn't bad to replace as folks had made it sound.

 

[Jhnpv]

Got into a fender bender...

Nothing happened the the cruiser except a few scrapes on the bumper. Everything happened to the other guys plastic car. In short, they don’t make them like they use to.

 

[desmocruiser]

Went on a mini weekend trip to see a friend in ATL. Well around Auburn I noticed that my AC started to run slower. Looked down and got my voltage gauge fluctuating and than holding around the middle position. Saw my ultragauge showing just under 12V running to it. Time to turn off literally everything I could to preserve the battery. Alternator started to kinda work once I got off the highway due to a big slowdown/wreck. That bought me some time to charge up the battery and make it all the way. I prob went 90 miles on battery alone (showing right at 11V at the lowest point when I noticed roughly after some minutes with AC, radio and other crap on), then it magically fixed itself for a quick charge for 15 mins back up to 11.5V and than another 50 miles of battery alone. Was racing to beat sunset and made it right as sunset occurred. For anyone curious, walmart battery from 7/19. I of course had a new alternator brush at home but from the PO, the alternator was replaced only a few years ago and the brush looked just fine (denso as well). Well quick call to NAPA and new Denso in a few hours later. Wasn't bad to replace as folks had made it sound.
View attachment 2670106
View attachment 2670104

Curious, how Many Volts did the ultra gauge read with the new alternator?

 

[WhitePhoenix]

Curious, how Many Volts did the ultra gauge read with the new alternator?

On cold startup, just under 14.9V and when warmed up around 14.1 with it being high 80s out. The same readings I was getting with the old alternator as well. The ultragauge was so useful in this situation on monitoring the slow drain of the battery. Yet I realized that there isn't much draw from it with the AC and radio off daytime, still much better piece of mind than the needle being in the center position and thinking I had 7v only.

 

[desmocruiser]

On cold startup, just under 14.9V and when warmed up around 14.1 with it being high 80s out. The same readings I was getting with the old alternator as well. The ultragauge was so useful in this situation on monitoring the slow drain of the battery. Yet I realized that there isn't much draw from it with the AC and radio off daytime, still much better piece of mind than the needle being in the center position and thinking I had 7v only.

Thanks, just comparing to mine with dual batteries, usually ~14.7 or so could and drops to 14.1-14.5 range after warm up.

Doesn’t appear it gave any warning, just slowed/stopped charging? They Aren’t a super expensive part and easier to change in the garage, maybe time for one as PM before the next long trip.

 

[desmocruiser]

OME lift installed on the 80...FINALLY. Holy sh*t what a difference! The ride is SO. MUCH. BETTER. It's like a whole different vehicle. Should have done this 10 years ago but it was the wife's daily. Now I have the typical 80 series tire struggle 33 or 35? Likely going with the 33 K02 since I don't plan on wheeling this rig enough to justify a 35 and really don't want to open the money faucet on upgrading gears etc. Power and fuel are already poor enough on these things.

If you're on the fence about a lift- DO IT. It's worth every cent just for the ride improvement alone.

35's and stock gearing aren't horrible in most areas (I will exclude the high MTN passes) there is also a BFG 295 in the AT's that I like on my daily, plus the spare fits well underneath!

Enjoy!

Yeah, I think 80's were intended to be 2-3" taller!

 

[cvenom96]

Got everything torn down except removing the intake plenum so that I can remove the head. What a pain in the bottom to get to some of those bolts. Ordered the head gasket kit, new exhaust nuts/studs, oil cooler gaskets. Will try to drop the head off today or tomorrow along with the valve cover for a good cleaning.

 

[WhitePhoenix]

Thanks, just comparing to mine with dual batteries, usually ~14.7 or so could and drops to 14.1-14.5 range after warm up.

Doesn’t appear it gave any warning, just slowed/stopped charging? They Aren’t a super expensive part and easier to change in the garage, maybe time for one as PM before the next long trip.

Yup, 0 warning (I was prob 200 miles into my trip) and if I hadn't been paying attention to the AC almost kicking off, I think my first indication would have been the red light about the voltage gauge.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Yup, 0 warning (I was prob 200 miles into my trip) and if I hadn't been paying attention to the AC almost kicking off, I think my first indication would have been the red light about the voltage gauge.

Same here. 20 miles into a trip after picking up my new to me '96. Spotted the charge light come on. Definitely wasn't on beforehand. Pulled into an O'Reilly's they tested it and said it was scrap. Had to wait 45 mins for them to have one delivered from their warehouse which was about the same time it took me to remove the offending unit. Thankfully they had all the tools i needed.

 

[jpoole]

Said adios to the front sombrero thanks to a few parts from @slow95z

Also serviced front axle/knuckles w fresh bearings, flushed brake fluid, changed all gear oils and did a trans drain/refill, etc. Almost ready for a big Summer road trip.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Spinning up some knuckle balls.

J

 

[b16]

Got my 4x4 labs main bumper and swing arms done and painted. Next to weld the tire carrier and ladder.

 

[Roketdriver]

After a moment of sheer absent mindedness, I did something that I hope to never repeat.

I noticed that my oil pressure was a little low, so I opened the hood, checked the level, added some dino juice, checked it again, then made the 50 mile journey home.

The whole way back there was a faint smell of oil and a nagging feeling that I had forgotten something. But the oil pressure was fine and the rig was running great and without check engine lights, so I completed my journey. I assumed the smell was from the bit of paper towel I use to check fluids.

I parked and went inside, but that sense of having forgotten something lingered. So went back out the LX, popped the hood, and this is what I saw:

Fearing the worst - I made the assumption that the cap slid off the valve cover and was gone forever. I grabbed a light and started looking in every nook and cranny in the bay, hoping it had landed somewhere safe.

It had.

There's a bit of spray in the bay but the level of oil that came out was trivial. Moral of the story: don't forget to put caps back on after topping up fluids.

I've also come to the conclusion that I need to run out and buy a lottery ticket today.

 

[NewbieMcNewster]

Might have to try out this Adam's undercarriage spray! We'll see how long it lasts.

As an update, I had to park in a muddy field last weekend, and got a fair bit of mud on the car again. So this weekend I power washed it again, and remarkably, the axles and parts that I'd sprayed with the Adam's spray are not only still looking great and black, but stood up to the power washing without a problem. So the stuff is lasting for weeks, and holding up to the elements quite well!

 

[Azca]

After a moment of sheer absent mindedness, I did something that I hope to never repeat.

I noticed that my oil pressure was a little low, so I opened the hood, checked the level, added some dino juice, checked it again, then made the 50 mile journey home.

The whole way back there was a faint smell of oil and a nagging feeling that I had forgotten something. But the oil pressure was fine and the rig was running great and without check engine lights, so I completed my journey. I assumed the smell was from the bit of paper towel I use to check fluids.

I parked and went inside, but that sense of having forgotten something lingered. So went back out the LX, popped the hood, and this is what I saw:

View attachment 2670489

Fearing the worst - I made the assumption that the cap slid off the valve cover and was gone forever. I grabbed a light and started looking in every nook and cranny in the bay, hoping it had landed somewhere safe.

It had.

View attachment 2670491

There's a bit of spray in the bay but the level of oil that came out was trivial. Moral of the story: don't forget to put caps back on after topping up fluids.

I've also come to the conclusion that I need to run out and buy a lottery ticket today.

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing once on my 77 corolla. A lot more spray from that one though...

 

[on the rocks]

After a moment of sheer absent mindedness, I did something that I hope to never repeat.

I noticed that my oil pressure was a little low, so I opened the hood, checked the level, added some dino juice, checked it again, then made the 50 mile journey home.

The whole way back there was a faint smell of oil and a nagging feeling that I had forgotten something. But the oil pressure was fine and the rig was running great and without check engine lights, so I completed my journey. I assumed the smell was from the bit of paper towel I use to check fluids.

I parked and went inside, but that sense of having forgotten something lingered. So went back out the LX, popped the hood, and this is what I saw:

Must be the thin air here or the easy access to pot... I have done this years ago so your not alone. Somehow I didn't lose the cap and drove it quite a while.

 

[landcrshr]

Yes sir and local.
And highly recommend "The Rear End" shop. The owner Barry is a cool guy.

It sounds like your experience with Barry at The Rear End Shop was better than mine. He screwed up the installation of my locker and blamed it on faulty equipment, and since I didn't purchase the locker from him, he charged me again to go back in and fix it.