What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (106 Viewers)

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Got the 80 all cleaned up yesterday, had an inch of dust on it from the fabricator's shop. Pretty sure I'm going to need to re-gear now. It wasn't too bad before with just 35" tires but the extra weight of the sliders, roof rack, and rear bumper with the spare mounted has really taken some power. I'm thinking 4.88 should be the ticket





What sliders are those?
 
My steering replace-a-thon continues. I was able to get the pump out and changed the gear over to the new one. If I could get the steering joint to let go of the steering box shaft, I would be doing better. I'll let it sit overnight soaking in AeroKroil and see if that helps.

One of my favorite parts of this project is replacing the reservoir-to-pump hose. I am pretty sure the old one is a section of garden hose. A red hose under the hood? This has bugged me for 13 months.
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If I could get the steering joint to let go of the steering box shaft, I would be doing better. I'll let it sit overnight soaking in AeroKroil and see if that helps.


The tool on the right has magical powers:

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OTC 7315A

If it doesn't crack the joint loose with tension, hit the hex head with a hammer while under tension. They always come loose.
 
The tool on the right has magical powers:

dsc02305-jpg.692270


OTC 7315A

If it doesn't crack the joint loose with tension, hit the hex head with a hammer while under tension. They always come loose.

Both would be a good addition to any tool box. I use the one on the left for the pitman arm. Like @bloc said, tighten it, then tap the arm with a hammer. If you try to pull the arm just by cranking that bolt alone you will probably break the puller. That other one is the absolute ticket for popping tie rods loose. So much better than a pickle fork.
 
Stuff...
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Finally finished my passenger door refurb. Replaced power window motor, regulator, and runs. Also cut new door cards and recovered in desert camo. Driver side next weekend.
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The tool on the right has magical powers:

dsc02305-jpg.692270


OTC 7315A

If it doesn't crack the joint loose with tension, hit the hex head with a hammer while under tension. They always come loose.

I don't think I described my problem well. I am having trouble with the joint just above the steering box. I think I will try disconnecting the intermediate steering shaft to take it out still connected to the steering box.
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View attachment 1420596
 
I don't think I described my problem well. I am having trouble with the joint just above the steering box. I think I will try disconnecting the intermediate steering shaft to take it out still connected to the steering box.
View attachment 1420597

View attachment 1420596

Just to be clear, you did remove the clamp bolt from the joint completely?

The bolt goes through a notch in the splined shaft that locks the join on unless it is totally removed.
 
Just to be clear, you did remove the clamp bolt from the joint completely?

The bolt goes through a notch in the splined shaft that locks the join on unless it is totally removed.
I did. While this isn't a rusty truck overall, from the looks of the splines on the shaft, the joint is rusted on there.

Digging into the FSM, it doesn't look like the intermediate shaft will come out through the firewall into the engine bay without destroying the firewall cover/seal.
 
I did. While this isn't a rusty truck overall, from the looks of the splines on the shaft, the joint is rusted on there.

Digging into the FSM, it doesn't look like the intermediate shaft will come out through the firewall into the engine bay without destroying the firewall cover/seal.

Actually I think the shaft is designed to slide into the engine bay for removal. The section toward the steering box is corrugated so it will collapse.. that won't go through the seal at all. The section on the column side of the firewall is only a few inches long and the rag joint does come off completely. Similar format to the joint you are having trouble with but far less likely to be rusted. If you loosen up the rag joint and remove, then unbolt the seal and the small square plate it bolts to on the firewall it'll slide toward the driver's seat and give you a large hole in the firewall to manipulate the shaft around while removing the box.

Seal usually needs replacing anyway..

I assume you've tried spreading the joint slightly with some kind of wedge?
 
I assume you've tried spreading the joint slightly with some kind of wedge?
I have tried to spread the joint with a large flat-blade screwdriver. If soaking overnight doesn't help break it free, I will try to remove the intermediate shaft using your guidance on removal. Much appreciated!
 
Picked up a set of these Staun tyre deflators. Kinda spendy for what they are, but made in Australia and come in a decent leather pouch. They work quite nicely and better than using a key or borrowing @Qball stuff. Got the air down part figured out, just need to settle on the air up part of the equation...:hmm:
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Air up part only has 2 options IMHO, the cheaper way is smitty build 5cfm portable pump for 150 at 4wheel parts or the fancier and more expensive Arb onboard twin compressor!
 
Air up part only has 2 options IMHO, the cheaper way is smitty build 5cfm portable pump for 150 at 4wheel parts or the fancier and more expensive Arb onboard twin compressor!

PUMA the best compressor value available today

image-jpg.1015057
 
PUMA the best compressor value available today

image-jpg.1015057


That's a nice setup too. But I really like arb twin compressor's features:

1. speed(true 5cfm and almost as fast as filling from air tank),
2. compact size(so many mounting options)
3. cooling fan for extended use(no overheating shutoff like other compressors In 110 degree heat)
4. internal pressure auto shut off(shuts off at 120psi when I move between tires).
5. Best customer service in the business
 
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