What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (68 Viewers)

[tyjova]

Finally got around to pulling the EGR vacuum lines and capping them off. I want to do a full delete at some point but I have to do emissions ever couple years so I figured that should do for now. Went out on a test drive and it seems like it may be running a bit smoother but at the very least I know it’s not breathing its own farts anymore. Then of course on the test drive I heard a god awful noise behind the dash and the Speedo went bye bye. Don’t think I could get it up to that speed even if I tried. It’s always finish one thing and then something else pops up!

 

[Azca]

All,
the rear suspension bushings have all been replaced. The HF press did its job and despite constant adjustments for lining everything up correctly, it worked great. All control arms are reinstalled and everything just has to be torqued to spec per the FSM.
Sadly, the broken off bolt just doesn’t want to come out. I drilled all the way through the bolt (breaking several drill bits due to lack of experience) and the extractor tightens up on the bolt just fine. Except, the bolt won’t budge. Nada, nothing, zilch. I have used penetrating lube and finally broke down a bought a propane torch and applied heat. It still won’t budge. I am hesitant to use an impact drill on it as if something were to snap off inside the drilled hole, I would be screwed harder than a virgin on his or her wedding night but NOT in a good way. Not sure what else I can do. Any suggestions would be most welcome. It’s the bolt that fastens the bottom of the shock absorber to the axle. Thanks.

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Not sure who stated it earlier but, MAP gas is going to burn hotter and give you better results for heat. Also, a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid makes an awesome penetrating fluid. As the acetone evaporates, it pulls the trans fluid deep into the voids. People have been raving about this mixture for years.

I don't think helicoil is an option as the hole is not centered enough.

 

[duece71]

Not sure who stated it earlier but, MAP gas is going to burn hotter and give you better results for heat. Also, a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid makes an awesome penetrating fluid. As the acetone evaporates, it pulls the trans fluid deep into the voids. People have been raving about this mixture for years.

I don't think helicoil is an option as the hole is not centered enough.

Anything at this point. I am about to head back out an attack it again. Day 3 just on this bolt.

 

[nigelsiam]

Anything at this point. I am about to head back out an attack it again. Day 3 just on this bolt.

If you were closer I would come over and do it for you

 

[Dusten]

Had these holes in my grill (assuming for turbo model) that I didn’t like so I added a 70 series Diesel badge.

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Sadly the correct badge is nla and if you find one used it's usually a few hundred

 

[tcolt45]

Sadly the correct badge is nla and if you find one used it's usually a few hundred

Oh I didn’t know that. Need to see if I can find one

 

[Dusten]

Oh I didn’t know that. Need to see if I can find one

I gave up looking when I found 2 and both were $200 plus and he sold them. I might see if I can find someone with a printer to make me something

 

[Outsane]

Print? @Dusten

Toyota Grill Badge

Toyota Turbo Badge 3d printed, ~ 4 1/4 inches wide 15/16in tall If you want a different size let me know. Or a different color You can either use double side tape or Zip ties to attach to your Rig that makes all the cool noises.. 3.0 Turbo is made to use double sided tape 6.5 in

solvefunction.com

 

[sogafarm]

Used it to buy feed for the chickens and sheep,

70lb protein buckets and cracked corn. So much easier since I fixed my third row seat brackets.

 

[duece71]

If you were closer I would come over and do it for you

That would be awesome. Due to the fact that the drilled hole is offset and that someone used the metal equivalent to superglue on this bolt, I used a stone tip on a Dremel drill and carefully ground away the extra material on the one side. It worked well, I can see threads on the one side which is promising. Now at least it’s even. I picked a few pieces of the bolt metal out with some pliers and even that was difficul. After speaking with another gentleman at an auto zone, he and I concluded that drilling it out and using a tap for new threads would be best. Really unhappy about it but I think I am heading in the right direction. I am going for 1 more night with PBlaster and see if removing some more bolt material will work. If I can keep even the ghost of the original threads after cleaning it all out, a tap would work great. What a mess.

 

[NeverFinis]

That would be awesome. Due to the fact that the drilled hole is offset and that someone used the metal equivalent to superglue on this bolt, I used a stone tip on a Dremel drill and carefully ground away the extra material on the one side. It worked well, I can see threads on the one side which is promising. Now at least it’s even. I picked a few pieces of the bolt metal out with some pliers and even that was difficul. After speaking with another gentleman at an auto zone, he and I concluded that drilling it out and using a tap for new threads would be best. Really unhappy about it but I think I am heading in the right direction. I am going for 1 more night with PBlaster and see if removing some more bolt material will work. If I can keep even the ghost of the original threads after cleaning it all out, a tap would work great. What a mess.

The way I do it is center punch the center of the broken bolt, and slowly drill it out until it you almost hit the threads. Start with small bits and slowly work your way up until bit is almost as large as the original bolt. If you are off center, use a carbide bit on a Dremel. It is like magic.....

Once almost fully drilled out, use one size smaller tap for the existing threads, but the same thread pitch, and start tapping. For example, if M10x1.25, use M8x1.25. Once the smaller tap is done, move up to the correct size tap.

Heat is your friend. Plenty of it until it is smoking. Use candle wax on the super heated broken bolt. Repeat...heat..cool...heat..cool. It should suck in the wax as it cools. Penetrate will also work but wax works better.

You also have plenty of surface there to just weld a nut on instead of drilling/tapping.

 

[efjayatee]

Finally got around to pulling the EGR vacuum lines and capping them off. I want to do a full delete at some point but I have to do emissions ever couple years so I figured that should do for now. Went out on a test drive and it seems like it may be running a bit smoother but at the very least I know it’s not breathing its own farts anymore. Then of course on the test drive I heard a god awful noise behind the dash and the Speedo went bye bye. Don’t think I could get it up to that speed even if I tried. It’s always finish one thing and then something else pops up! View attachment 3519767

Yes you can-just ask landcruiserphil......

 

[duece71]

The way I do it is center punch the center of the broken bolt, and slowly drill it out until it you almost hit the threads. Start with small bits and slowly work your way up until bit is almost as large as the original bolt. If you are off center, use a carbide bit on a Dremel. It is like magic.....

Once almost fully drilled out, use one size smaller tap for the existing threads, but the same thread pitch, and start tapping. For example, if M10x1.25, use M8x1.25. Once the smaller tap is done, move up to the correct size tap.

Heat is your friend. Plenty of it until it is smoking. Use candle wax on the super heated broken bolt. Repeat...heat..cool...heat..cool. It should suck in the wax as it cools. Penetrate will also work but wax works better.

You also have plenty of surface there to just weld a nut on instead of drilling/tapping.

It’s all drilled out now, just cleaning everything up. I might use a thread chaser to start, not sure if I need to use a tap, I will find out. You are the second person to mention candle wax.

 

[nigelsiam]

It’s all drilled out now, just cleaning everything up. I might use a thread chaser to start, not sure if I need to use a tap, I will find out. You are the second person to mention candle wax.

You should use the tap...just make sure the hole is drilled using the correct bit for the tap size and go slowly...back and forth with the tap. You do NOT want to break the tap inside there

 

[NeverFinis]

It’s all drilled out now, just cleaning everything up. I might use a thread chaser to start, not sure if I need to use a tap, I will find out. You are the second person to mention candle wax.

If you can get a thread chaser to work, great. I use tapered taps to slowly remove material, and then I change to less tapered taps (left to right in the picture).

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

(Original post from Feb 2017)

I replaced the original, 21 year old hood & hatch struts with these from www.liftsupportsdepot.com
Fronts: PM2006L & PM2006R
Rears: PM1047
I found them on Amazon though.
They are the same dimensions and work well. No more hood or hatch falling on my head!


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Well these liftsupportdepot hood and hatch struts only lasted 6 1/2 years. They are shot now and no longer hold the hood or hatch open.

Has anyone found any good alternatives?

 

[duece71]

You should use the tap...just make sure the hole is drilled using the correct bit for the tap size and go slowly...back and forth with the tap. You do NOT want to break the tap inside there

Trust me, I don’t want any more issues or screw ups. It’s a 17 mm bolt, I will try the thread chaser 1st. I am thinking of taking off the left side bolt (already removed, torqued to spec per the FSM) to use for measuring and comparison. If the thread chaser doesnt work, then I will go to the tap/drill bit. If the bolt is 17mm, should I use a tap for 17mm or should I just go up a size? Yes, I need to know thread pitch. On a bright note, at least it’s cleaned out and the problem is easily accessed. This would be 10x worse if it were up inside and more confined.

 

[duece71]

Well these liftsupportdepot hood and hatch struts only lasted 6 1/2 years. They are shot now and no longer hold the hood or hatch open.

Has anyone found any good alternatives?

I found the hood support rod that comes with the grommet and clip.

https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1395

 

[Fj80oregon]

Trust me, I don’t want any more issues or screw ups. It’s a 17 mm bolt, I will try the thread chaser 1st. I am thinking of taking off the left side bolt (already removed, torqued to spec per the FSM) to use for measuring and comparison. If the thread chaser doesnt work, then I will go to the tap/drill bit. If the bolt is 17mm, should I use a tap for 17mm or should I just go up a size? Yes, I need to know thread pitch. On a bright note, at least it’s cleaned out and the problem is easily accessed. This would be 10x worse if it were up inside and more confined.

When chasing use oil and go a half or full turn then back clean the material out as you go. A compressor with air helps blow the bits out. Nice work on not giving up!

 

[duece71]

If you can get a thread chaser to work, great. I use tapered taps to slowly remove material, and then I change to less tapered taps (left to right in the picture).

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Yes, that’s the plan right now. I am hoping for no more issues, the rear suspension bushing replace project would have been done a couple of days ago. BTW, this broken bolt fiasco will put me on a campaign to slowly replace all suspect looking bolts. Lol.