What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (18 Viewers)

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Installed new OEM hood insulation. The cost pinched a little, but my existing insulation was in shreds. It balled up like a wet blanket when I removed it earlier this week. Definitely time to be replaced.

Chasing down some mystery rear hatch wetness in both lower corners. Sounds like I need to seal the bolts that hold the sliding window molding with RTV.

In inspecting everything, also saw that my main rear hatch weatherstripping has become compromised. Sweet.

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It's probably the belt moulding clip holes.
 
Thanks @cruiserdan I will check that out.

I mentioned the bolts underneath, that you access by removing the rear quarter panel, because of what I read in this thread:


Is applying RTV or some similar waterproofing material around the belt molding clip holes a viable solution?
 
Either that or a butyl tape. I prefer butyl because it does not harden.
 
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Drove to my friend’s homemade range and shot over 1400 rounds suppressed through my new Taurus TX22 competition.
 
Just pulled the intake to do the same while I have PS pump and starter out for replacement. Also found this unwelcome surprise...

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Another few hours wrenching. Wiring harness tied away from EGR with bailing wire since plastic retaining clip broke, "all" new vacuum hoses (see below), new starter/engine/body cables from @Fourrunner , new fuel filter, new starter, new rear heater valve.

Anyone know if these two vac hoses should be open to atmosphere?
vac hoses 1.jpg


Origin (fuel filter is out, in case you cant get your bearings)
vac hoses 2.jpg
 
Another few hours wrenching. Wiring harness tied away from EGR with bailing wire since plastic retaining clip broke, "all" new vacuum hoses (see below), new starter/engine/body cables from @Fourrunner , new fuel filter, new starter, new rear heater valve.

Anyone know if these two vac hoses should be open to atmosphere?
View attachment 2825901

Origin (fuel filter is out, in case you cant get your bearings)
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Those 2 hoses go to the upper manifold hardlines.
 
Another few hours wrenching. Wiring harness tied away from EGR with bailing wire since plastic retaining clip broke, "all" new vacuum hoses (see below), new starter/engine/body cables from @Fourrunner , new fuel filter, new starter, new rear heater valve.

Anyone know if these two vac hoses should be open to atmosphere?
View attachment 2825901

Origin (fuel filter is out, in case you cant get your bearings)
View attachment 2825902
Those 2 hoses go to the upper manifold hardlines.
And they plug into the TVV sensor on the block. So no, they should be open atmosphere.
 
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So, Saturday night The FedEx Fairy delivered my muffler, so, now I have all of the parts to replace my exhaust. Being a nice day out this halloween I decided early this morning would be a great time to whack out the old and whack in the new...
Two nuts in, sheared the rear-most exhaust manifold stud. Great, I had bought 4 of those studs anyway, and I am past the point of no-return...
Not going to let this hold me up.

I could have sworn I had a new pack of sawzall blades, but I made do with the worn out ones I had. Everything came out relatively easy.
I took off the rear bumper-ettes because they were hiding some minor lower quarter panel rust and I am replacing the exhaust hanger brackets as well. Pulled the tow hitch as well - sheared the two forward bolts on each side, bolts holding the tow hooks came out OK. There is considerable rust through in the rear bumper member. The 4x4 Labs bumper would solve that problem.

Ugh, now my neck/back are killing me. Still want to clean up the frame rail a bit. I have some linseed oil black paint I was going to slap on there. Going to order some exhaust manifold studs/nuts/gasket and perhaps a set of manifolds themselves. And some extremely long gear wrench.

While not as smooth an operation as I had imagined it would be... It'll be fine...

Hope I don't have to go anywhere this week!
 
Found genuine side steps for $75AUD, which I thought was a great price. Figured out what the previous owner had done to his steps though; snapped and rusted bolts in the body threads where the steps should attach... and I can't get a drill in there without pulling the suspension apart. f#$k!

Only one side step installed while I figure out what to do.

Welded solid mounts to the roof rack for awning, jack and shovel. Installed a cheap UHF, in fact everything has been cheap so far; thanks Facebook marketplace.

The motto with this cruiser: Ballin' on a budget

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Found genuine side steps for $75AUD, which I thought was a great price. Figured out what the previous owner had done to his steps though; snapped and rusted bolts in the body threads where the steps should attach... and I can't get a drill in there without pulling the suspension apart. f#$k!

Only one side step installed while I figure out what to do.

Welded solid mounts to the roof rack for awning, jack and shovel. Installed a cheap UHF, in fact everything has been cheap so far; thanks Facebook marketplace.

The motto with this cruiser: Ballin' on a budget

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Hang those side steps on the broken studs and throw a couple welds on it. You can grind the welds off if you ever pull the suspension apart.
 
Thats an idea! Only a couple of bolts are seized, so would only need welds in one or two places.

Cheers!
 
And they plug into a sensor on the block. So no, they shouldN'T be open atmosphere.
Thanks, got it. Don't know how long they were disconnected, so hopefully will run smoother/better now.

80 almost back together from my 2 month PM trip. New alternator in, new PS pump, new block drain, new radiator, new fan, and new fan shroud amongst other odds n ends. Just need to get batteries back in, fill with new engine oil, fill trans fluid, new Mr T red coolant, and get all the air out of the power steering system....

Btw, torquing the gear onto the new PS pump was tricky. I used an impact and leather glove, but then rigged up the below so I could use the torque wrench. By using tall bits of wood, I could apply the right leverage and keep the gear from wanting to "walk" up the wood and out of the vise. Turns out I had another 1/8-1/4 turn left to hit torque spec, so glad I messed with it for a while.

Cant wait to get back in the driver seat!

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Installed new OEM hood insulation. The cost pinched a little, but my existing insulation was in shreds. It balled up like a wet blanket when I removed it earlier this week. Definitely time to be replaced.

Chasing down some mystery rear hatch wetness in both lower corners. Sounds like I need to seal the bolts that hold the sliding window molding with RTV.

In inspecting everything, also saw that my main rear hatch weatherstripping has become compromised. Sweet.

View attachment 2825406

View attachment 2825407

View attachment 2825408
For me it was the rear vents.

I removed them, scraped off the old foam gasket, reinstalled with form a gasket(non silicone) and problem was fixed.
 
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Installed a second cat. Ordered Bosal (now called B.R.E), I got a magnaflow box with a cat that had magnaflow stickers.
Once I tightened it up my muffler was hitting the DS so I spent the rest of the day using every type Universal exhaust hanger the parts store had to try and pull it back in line. I loosened everything including the Y pipe while I put in the hangers but I really didn't gain that much space. It's not hitting anymore but I'm not happy.

Anyone know if the bosal muffler is a smaller diameter than oem? I guess that would fix my problem, and mine needs replaced anyway.
 
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Installed a second cat. Ordered Bosal (now called B.R.E), I got a magnaflow box with a cat that had magnaflow stickers.
Once I tightened it up my muffler was hitting the DS so I spent the rest of the day using every type Universal exhaust hanger the parts store had to try and pull it back in line. I loosened everything including the Y pipe while I put in the hangers but I really didn't gain that much space. It's not hitting anymore but I'm not happy.

Anyone know if the bosal muffler is a smaller diameter than oem? I guess that would fix my problem, and mine needs replaced anyway.
My Tacoma Bosal muffler was smaller than stock. At least it seemed that way, I didn't really measure it. I'm glad Magnaflow owns Bosal now. I prefer Bosal over Walker for cheap exhaust parts.
 
Installed a second cat. Ordered Bosal (now called B.R.E), I got a magnaflow box with a cat that had magnaflow stickers.
Once I tightened it up my muffler was hitting the DS so I spent the rest of the day using every type Universal exhaust hanger the parts store had to try and pull it back in line. I loosened everything including the Y pipe while I put in the hangers but I really didn't gain that much space. It's not hitting anymore but I'm not happy.

Anyone know if the bosal muffler is a smaller diameter than oem? I guess that would fix my problem, and mine needs replaced anyway.
Mine was and it rusts like a mofo. It's been on there 4 years and the heat shield on top came off a few weeks ago and then something inside it broke loose a few days before Fall Crawl. It's coming out soon.
 
another one in the books, our yearly halloween camping. Day temp was awesome, and we got the kids to do 12miles mountain biking. Night just dipped to 32s but i got a diesel heater to keep everyone comfy enough and dry!

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What kind of heater and how was the install?
 

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