Took a mate for a drive in my diesel and told him it doesn't go very fast anymore as it's now only running 194hp but the look on his face after seeing how quick it could get to 100kph was priceless!
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (61 Viewers)
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Jumped in the parts runner and spent the weekend at home working on the motor. Of course being an idiot in a rush, got the valve cover torqued down.. got the oil pans.. realized I used 1281 RED to seal the pans instead of BLACK FIGP. Going to be a fun weekend scraping all that mess off and cleaning everything up. In my defense this is the first reseal I've taken on myself.. Learning the hard way to make it easier next time
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This weekend I ditched the old school lighting I had, moved it into the 21st century. Then I finally ordered some cup holders 
MoJ
Moderator
What did you go with?This weekend I ditched the old school lighting I had, moved it into the 21st century. Then I finally ordered some cup holders
View attachment 2332927
Hit up Monache Meadow with the gf and puppy. Was a good chance to check out the new crawler gears...after about 60 miles of low range driving I'm giving them a massive 
Only downside was a burning smell this afternoon on the way back down out of Kennedy Meadows (about 10 miles of downhill and ~5000' elevation drop) that led to discovering the passenger front wheel was super hot. I suspect a stuck caliper although there was no discernible drag--I redid pads, rotors, and lines seven months ago and am now kicking myself for not doing the calipers too. Will investigate more this week.
Only downside was a burning smell this afternoon on the way back down out of Kennedy Meadows (about 10 miles of downhill and ~5000' elevation drop) that led to discovering the passenger front wheel was super hot. I suspect a stuck caliper although there was no discernible drag--I redid pads, rotors, and lines seven months ago and am now kicking myself for not doing the calipers too. Will investigate more this week.
I should have done this several years ago. Very noticeable difference.
I spent a few hours today addressing the previous owners stupid body lift. A couple of years ago I was being an idiot and drove way to fast over some rocks that were way to big and it ended up cracking the body where one of the previous owners home brew aluminium body lift pucks made contact with the body. I welded the cracks and reinforced the body where it cracked and I figured the others would be good as long as I didn't abuse the rig by driving 30mph over a bunch of 1 foot+ boulders...
Well about a month ago after a rotate and balance I took off down a dirt road I had driven many times. The road was in poor disrepair and had not been grated for awhile. At first I assumed the extra rough ride was due to all the pot holes and washboard but after a few miles the road and ride got even worse and the rig developed a new noise from the rear of the truck. At this point I could tell something was wrong because the ride was so terrible. I decided to air down my tires and when I put my air gauge on the tire I realized that the tire shop must have aired my tires up to 80 psi....
I guess driving 50+ on the beat up road with 80 psi in my tires stressed the body enough to cause new cracks at another body mount location. This time the body cracked at the rear most mount location on the drivers side.
This time I decided to replace all the stupid aluminium blocks with something wider because the aluminium blocks were only 1.9"' inches in diameter and I am hoping that wider blocks will prevent this issue from reoccurring until I can just remove the entire stupid body lift in another year or two and redo the entire suspension. I found this guy online that will make custom body lift blocks so I went ahead and ordered a set. Mikellis body lifts The blocks seem great and are just what I wanted. I was able to weld the cracks and reinforce the area with extra metal again and get the two rear most blocks swapped. If anyone does want to pursue a body lift I would seriously consider ordering pucks from this website and sourcing your own hardware.
I also wanted to do the second set of blocks from the rear tonight, after looking at a schematic I could see that this set appears to be the only body mount that is not through bolted, rather I assume that these mounts bolt into a captured nut because I could not find a way to access the top side of the bolt. Well of course not only was the previous owner stupid enough to use aluminium blocks with a 1.9 inch diameter in direct contact with the steel body, but he also decided to use SAE hardware for the body lift. I guess he was also stupid enough to put SAE bolts into the 2nd set of body mounts from the rear.
I tried to remove these bolts but to my dismay they are just spinning both directions without coming loose or tightening. I am assuming that the previous owner cross threaded the SAE bolts into the original Toyota captured nuts and when I tried to break them loose I only managed to spin the captured nuts. I have pulled the carpet up along with the interior trim and I cannot see a way to access the other side of the bolt. I am thinking at this point I will have to use a hole saw on the rear floor to get access to them.... What a nightmare, I can't believe the previous owner was stupid enough to use an SAE bolt in the OEM captured nut.
If anyone is considering a body lift I would recommend keeping it at an inch or lower and using blocks that are as wide as possible and not aluminium. I have put a lot of offroad miles on the previous owners set up and both the times I have had problems my driving was as much to blame as the body lift. I still beleieve 90% of 80 series owners would be fine running a body lift, especially if the lift is done right.
Well about a month ago after a rotate and balance I took off down a dirt road I had driven many times. The road was in poor disrepair and had not been grated for awhile. At first I assumed the extra rough ride was due to all the pot holes and washboard but after a few miles the road and ride got even worse and the rig developed a new noise from the rear of the truck. At this point I could tell something was wrong because the ride was so terrible. I decided to air down my tires and when I put my air gauge on the tire I realized that the tire shop must have aired my tires up to 80 psi....
I guess driving 50+ on the beat up road with 80 psi in my tires stressed the body enough to cause new cracks at another body mount location. This time the body cracked at the rear most mount location on the drivers side.This time I decided to replace all the stupid aluminium blocks with something wider because the aluminium blocks were only 1.9"' inches in diameter and I am hoping that wider blocks will prevent this issue from reoccurring until I can just remove the entire stupid body lift in another year or two and redo the entire suspension. I found this guy online that will make custom body lift blocks so I went ahead and ordered a set. Mikellis body lifts The blocks seem great and are just what I wanted. I was able to weld the cracks and reinforce the area with extra metal again and get the two rear most blocks swapped. If anyone does want to pursue a body lift I would seriously consider ordering pucks from this website and sourcing your own hardware.
I also wanted to do the second set of blocks from the rear tonight, after looking at a schematic I could see that this set appears to be the only body mount that is not through bolted, rather I assume that these mounts bolt into a captured nut because I could not find a way to access the top side of the bolt. Well of course not only was the previous owner stupid enough to use aluminium blocks with a 1.9 inch diameter in direct contact with the steel body, but he also decided to use SAE hardware for the body lift. I guess he was also stupid enough to put SAE bolts into the 2nd set of body mounts from the rear.
I tried to remove these bolts but to my dismay they are just spinning both directions without coming loose or tightening. I am assuming that the previous owner cross threaded the SAE bolts into the original Toyota captured nuts and when I tried to break them loose I only managed to spin the captured nuts. I have pulled the carpet up along with the interior trim and I cannot see a way to access the other side of the bolt. I am thinking at this point I will have to use a hole saw on the rear floor to get access to them.... What a nightmare, I can't believe the previous owner was stupid enough to use an SAE bolt in the OEM captured nut.
If anyone is considering a body lift I would recommend keeping it at an inch or lower and using blocks that are as wide as possible and not aluminium. I have put a lot of offroad miles on the previous owners set up and both the times I have had problems my driving was as much to blame as the body lift. I still beleieve 90% of 80 series owners would be fine running a body lift, especially if the lift is done right.
Maybe use a small cut off wheel and cut out a rectangle. Weld on a new nut and weld the rectangle back in.I spent a few hours today addressing the previous owners stupid body lift. A couple of years ago I was being an idiot and drove way to fast over some rocks that were way to big and it ended up cracking the body where one of the previous owners home brew aluminium body lift pucks made contact with the body. I welded the cracks and reinforced the body where it cracked and I figured the others would be good as long as I didn't abuse the rig by driving 30mph over a bunch of 1 foot+ boulders...
View attachment 2332958
Well about a month ago after a rotate and balance I took off down a dirt road I had driven many times. The road was in poor disrepair and had not been grated for awhile. At first I assumed the extra rough ride was due to all the pot holes and washboard but after a few miles the road and ride got even worse and the rig developed a new noise from the rear of the truck. At this point I could tell something was wrong because the ride was so terrible. I decided to air down my tires and when I put my air gauge on the tire I realized that the tire shop must have aired my tires up to 80 psi....
This time I decided to replace all the stupid aluminium blocks with something wider because the aluminium blocks were only 1.9"' inches in diameter and I am hoping that wider blocks will prevent this issue from reoccurring until I can just remove the entire stupid body lift in another year or two and redo the entire suspension. I found this guy online that will make custom body lift blocks so I went ahead and ordered a set. Mikellis body lifts The blocks seem great and are just what I wanted. I was able to weld the cracks and reinforce the area with extra metal again and get the two rear most blocks swapped. If anyone does want to pursue a body lift I would seriously consider ordering pucks from this website and sourcing your own hardware.
View attachment 2332972View attachment 2332970
I also wanted to do the second set of blocks from the rear tonight, after looking at a schematic I could see that this set appears to be the only body mount that is not through bolted, rather I assume that these mounts bolt into a captured nut because I could not find a way to access the top side of the bolt. Well of course not only was the previous owner stupid enough to use aluminium blocks with a 1.9 inch diameter in direct contact with the steel body, but he also decided to use SAE hardware for the body lift. I guess he was also stupid enough to put SAE bolts into the 2nd set of body mounts from the rear.
View attachment 2332980
I tried to remove these bolts but to my dismay they are just spinning both directions without coming loose or tightening. I am assuming that the previous owner cross threaded the SAE bolts into the original Toyota captured nuts and when I tried to break them loose I only managed to spin the captured nuts. I have pulled the carpet up along with the interior trim and I cannot see a way to access the other side of the bolt. I am thinking at this point I will have to use a hole saw on the rear floor to get access to them.... What a nightmare, I can't believe the previous owner was stupid enough to use an SAE bolt in the OEM captured nut.
If anyone is considering a body lift I would recommend keeping it at an inch or lower and using blocks that are as wide as possible and not aluminium. I have put a lot of offroad miles on the previous owners set up and both the times I have had problems my driving was as much to blame as the body lift. I still beleieve 90% of 80 series owners would be fine running a body lift, especially if the lift is done right.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Celebrated diversity... Toyota style.
Hit a deer.
Thankfully I wasn't going very fast. The dumb thing immediately got up and ran away. Bumper is a bit pushed in but no other damage as far as I can tell. Time for an insurance claim...
Thankfully I wasn't going very fast. The dumb thing immediately got up and ran away. Bumper is a bit pushed in but no other damage as far as I can tell. Time for an insurance claim...
For those of you who have been following my other posts this is the end result of all the welding, grinding, sanding, priming and painting. Both of my inner fenders had rust through. My son and I had pulled the parts we needed from another 80 two years ago. We cleaned up and painted the inner fenders and were trying to decide what to do about the color miss-match front fender. We had been toying with the thought of using Monstaliner on the entire truck. So we took this opportunity to see how it is to work with, and what the end result would be.
I present to you, Matthew's Cruiser of many colors
Not perfect by any means but we both really like the end result. It is better than green, which is what this fender was.
I present to you, Matthew's Cruiser of many colors
Not perfect by any means but we both really like the end result. It is better than green, which is what this fender was.
This weekend I ditched the old school lighting I had, moved it into the 21st century. Then I finally ordered some cup holders
View attachment 2332927
Can you post a day time pic and side angle? I ordered those for my rig, but thought they might look out of place on my shortbus.
Those look pretty nice, and guess I was wrong.
That mount is not bolted in a factory sense. The rubber on top is just a bumper, not a body mount like the other ten. I've been running a 3" BL for a few years and never bothered with that bumper.
So your saying the bolt for that mount screws into the rubber bumper and doesn't go through the rubber bumper into the sheet metal?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Upgraded the Mickey Mouse horns to a pit of 200 series horns...much better.
One of my horns quit, so I bought a set that match my 2009 Chrysler T&C that seem excessively loud. I'll post after I get them and install.
How much and what P/N did you purchase for those?
No, the rubber bumper is screwed to the body. I doubt that block is attached to the body, just the frame bracket. I'm not certain how one would get a bolt long enough in that location to go through the spacer and into the body.
Here are a couple pictures of my rig with a 3" lift. The "mount" in question:
Looking up into the bumper:
Hope it helps.
