What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
- Start date
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Last two days have put about 500 miles on this fix and no leakage.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
@ToyotaMatt I put my long socket wrench handle under the front frame passenger side with 46mm socket on board, zip tied it to the frame thru a convenient hole, put a couple wood blocks in two places and cranked the engine over once! Amazing really. I should have taken a picture, video would be better. "This is the way"
On another note, my weekend project just got longer. When i put light pressure on the bottom edge of the backing plate i can see oil between it and the block squeezing out. The gasket and crank seal appeared to have been leaking also. The gears look OEM and really good to me. Should I check the run-out before further disassembly? I know the backing plate gasket is NLA, what should I use? Any suggestions on this snowballing job? I have not drained the oil yet.
Oh and how many people have had the lower part of the cover separate off? Looks like some weak tack welds let go.
I have had the boomerang flange spot welds fail before
Tack weld back on
Or
% Troy weight silver solder
No brass brazing
U need this
Don’t dismiss its purpose
Also a new OEM toyota key way is simply a must do
This is the way ….
Also
All new OEM mounting bolts 10mm
There’s a chart in FSM there are like
3 or 4 different length ones it’s treasure map to get it right
But u can do it with the FSM
If I can help let me know
Matt
Tack weld back on
Or
% Troy weight silver solderNo brass brazing
U need this
Don’t dismiss its purpose
Also a new OEM toyota key way is simply a must do
This is the way ….
Also
All new OEM mounting bolts 10mm
There’s a chart in FSM there are like
3 or 4 different length ones it’s treasure map to get it right
But u can do it with the FSM
If I can help let me know
Matt
Gasket between block and timing plate appears to still be available. Part # 1131261020 and ca. $15.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Great news. I started searching and found two part numbers 11312-61021 and ...1011? Any idea which is the correct one. I have an April 84. The backing plate itself is showing available also, is it advised to get a new one? Still searching on how to remove the staked flat heads and oiler without damaging.
g-man
SILVER Star
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
11312-61011 is through 10/84.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Changing my plan unless Mr. 2F changes it for me. I had no clue how involved removing the cam was until late last night. If the gears check out, I'll be tack welding, painting and putting everything back. 
Changing my plan unless Mr. 2F changes it for me. I had no clue how involved removing the cam was until late last night. If the gears check out, I'll be tack welding, painting and putting everything back.
This is an upgrade to the backing plate flat head screws 9014910001. These have a torx head, part number from 3FE. But if you are not going to pull the cam to access the plate you will not need them, file the number away for next time.
Regarding the oiler, do not remove it. It's set at a certain depth and staked. If you remove it and screw it in too far it can slightly push the out the timing plate and cause an oil leak.
Pulling the cam is a chore. Remove rocker arm assembly, side cover, rods and lifters, etc. plus you have to loosen the motor mounts to lift the engine so the cam gear will clear the valance.
g-man
SILVER Star
UGH!... sucks you can't remove the cam gear from the cam without pulling it. I noticed the FSM says to:
Yes, but it's not that difficult. Just go slow and easy with removal and reinstallation, don't force it if it's not going smoothly. Definitely not the place for a hammer.
Installed a second battery last year which required moving the overflow bottle, and that led to a very taut hose connecting the radiator to the overflow. After many months finally added a section of hose to alleviate the shortness. I scavenged some connecting pieces from a couple of Mityvac kits.
Exactly how I did mine, until I moved it to the air cleaner housing for FMIC ducting, etc. then I installed my Provent 200 catch can there now.
But I have the 12HT / 2H air cleaner, different than you,
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Well, here it is. I'm a bit nervous about the preload on the bearings as the IFS hub fits tight without any preload. The caliper is tight too. There is no fluid in it and there is a lot of resistance. I imagine it will wear in at some horrible gas mileage. Did I say that it is tight??
Got the 3FE-Turbo running! It's running great too, only showing 2 lbs boost but I've got the lightest spring in the wastegate. Got all the gauges working today too and the wideband calibrated. What a relief after all that work you just never know how it's going to play out. Only issue I had on initial startup was the oil feed line to the turbo wasn't quite tight enough and had a little drip. All that's left is to finish the exhaust and I still need to plumb in an aux fuel pump but now I can get it on the lift so I'll get that done soon. What do you think, I'm going to do a side exit for the exhaust either before or after the rear wheel. I was going to go after but now I'm leaning towards before because I need to build some rear qtr protection. I included a pic of the drifted snow in front of the sauna at my camp so you can see it's going to be awhile before it hits the road.
Downpipe
You've all seen these but this is the final
Downpipe
You've all seen these but this is the final
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sounds great. Love the square/cubed sliders!!! We have 2 things in common...both have Freeborn red rigs and Both live under Snow!!!!
Looks good. Do those calipers mount directly to the caliper ears on the knuckle?
