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What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
- Start date
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Took a drive in the 62 with my boys to Laguna Seca for their first Cars and Coffee, and we were lucky enough to hit it on a event with antique and Porsche's on track. I'm always here for the Superbike races and then the Corkscrew is packed and you can't get any cars up here. So I felt a little naughty driving my 62 up here and couldn't pass up the photo op. I have a vid but it won't let me upload a .mov file.
I passed emissions again!
Woo hoo!
Woo hoo!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Wow, that’s totally awesome. Now if I could visualize that area on the wiper. I’ll take a look tmrw. Wise fabrication.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 233
- Messages
- 21,825
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Another MUD member made these when he worked for a machine shop and sent me the drawings to reproduce. See thread.
windshield wiper arms"SLOP"
J
Tightened a few thing-a-ma-bob's and measured for bigger tires! Going to go from 265/70/17 to 305/70/17.
Amazing how much better she starts after changing glow plugs. One just wasn't doing the job!
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
NPT is for national pipe thread, or US standard tapered plumbing thread. All US plumbing pipes have tapered threads. Is most applications, tape or sealer is required to seal except where use of soft metals allows for the metals to seal against themselves. Usually that is only in no or low pressure, and when using brass on aluminum. You won’t need much bite with this plug. Don’t over torque it, either. My NPT plug Is still leak free...
So in this case, would someone just use Teflon tape, or nothing? Just curious how people are sealing their plugs.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Thank you. Those are the words I needed to hear to help me feel right about my work. I appreciate you speaking up. And @LAMBCRUSHER, its funny because I would say national pipe thread out loud (esp when at the hardware store) but someone else said here on mud the T stands for tapered... he threw me off because I knew otherwise. I've read up a bit on npt... its such an interesting term spelled out. Similar to folks who take Coumadin for helping them clot faster... they get their PT/INR checked to be sure the levels in their blood are right. Prothombin time/International Normalized Ratio. Certain acronyms make my head tweak out.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Aluminum housing to brass plug. He is saying, no tape or sealer... softer metals and low pressure.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Teflon will only help you torque it too far... hth.
Installed TH Carb....secondary wont' open though, failed the paper clip test...any thoughts?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I did swap the spring on my Trollhole. Trollhole and Aisin are the same as far as the secondary diaphram goes. Lighter spring trick will work in either one.
Pop the diaphragm off and check the oring to see if it’s sealing or misaligned. I remember someone posting the vacuum hole impression on the oring that was offset and not getting full vacuum. Also, when you have it off, spray brake cleaner into the vacuum port and make sure it comes out in BOTH the primary and secondary throats just below the Venturi. Then if all that checks out, adjust the when the secondary opens by bending the tab below the accelerator linkage, just don’t go crazy, you don’t want it opening at idle. When I adjusted mine I could look down the throat of the secondary and see how far it was open as I rotated the accel linkage, it wasn’t open much so I adjusted the tab and put in the lighter spring and voila, it works. My vacuum is pretty poor 16ish, my theory is the secondary doesn’t open very well with low vac, and opening the secondary as much as possible (without opening at idle at all) with linkage will help draw more air across the secondary vacuum port in the throat. HTH but assuming you know most of this already!
^^^ Thanks guys. I'll do that. Not sure why I need to replace the spring on a brand new carb...figured it should work properly. My old OEM carb had no issues passing the paper clip test. I did adjust the tab a bit, but it made no difference. I reckon I need to take it off again and check the diaphragm and associated ports...sigh.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
There have been folks who have gotten bunk TH carbs...
I took it off and checked the diaphragm. Seems to work when I applied the Mighty Vac directly to the diaphragm hole. I sprayed carb cleaner in the hole, like you do, and it seems to come out of both primary and secondary throats...only thing I can think of is that the gasket around the diaphragm hole is not seating well, it didn't look too bad, but I wasn't impressed. Might go look for a small o-ring and use that instead of the gasket thing that is on there now...or it's the spring tension as previously mentioned...but that blows my mind that it would be the culprit. I pull 21" at idle. Other wise the carb is working well enough. it's not as responsive as the OEM at the initial throttle up, but I may need to tweak the mixture some more. At least I can change the small diaphragm gasket without removing the carb!
Now on to order a rebuild kit for the OEM...got some learning to do.
Now on to order a rebuild kit for the OEM...got some learning to do.
