What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (7 Viewers)

[BG_TX]

I need to reroute the exhaust to support installation of the sliders... plus the OEM configuration traveling under the frame in 2 locations was odd. New exhaust from the headers back, Y pipe for the O2 sensors, single cat and a fairly quiet muffler.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

oh come on now...lets not turn this into a war. I meant it all in good fun - you don't need to go trolling my profile for my lack of mad skills...i'll tell you straight up they ain't there!!

Cruisediesel +1 indeed!

I appreciate very much that you built that yourself. i truly wish i had welding skills and could fabricate stuff...i dont have the skills or the space. I admire anyone that has skills to make stuff with their own hands.

i did make these tho... this is not "bolt on" - still a work in progress though.

NOW kids...hehehe..I will say this...Me, personally? I'd be the first guy to say "look what I built! Look how well it works!..." then proceed to park my truck, set up camp, cook, clean(as if) and pass out, only to wake in the middle of dark night to chase one of my dogs as they go barking into the night after whatever deer or raccoon and run full bore into my gear basket, breaking at least one leg and tossing out my back, cursing "who put that bloody thing there!?!..."

 

[Skniper]

Yes, tough location! I snipped that cable lug off when installing a complete ground strap kit years ago....think I used one of the compressor bolts for the new strap.

Minor correction, turns out I did not cut off the old ground strap...left it for redundancy. "New" strap added under the compressor bolt. Just happened to be in there today degreasing everything after I posted that this morning.

 

[Hokierig]

Pulled the running boards off my truck (they were on when I bought it), rotated tires, and did a valve adjustment. Also, dad and I did a 30 mile bike ride this morning so it was a full day! I also got the truck inspected and it passed with flying colors. They did give me a hard time on the tint.

For the valve adjustment, we found the easiest way to locate the top dead center on the flywheel was with this tool. It does a fantastic job of making it easy to see when paired with a flashlight. I can't figure out how to embed the video but it is located here (IMG_2049.MOV)

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The weekend ain't over yet and neither is this weekend's project... should be back together by tonight.

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Cool to see that. I appreciate the pictures. Amazing how not heavy the head is when it's held by a cable and big length of wood between two people.
I'm not going that deep but yeah mines off now too. I did try a new art form... lapping valves. What a absolute pita.

 

[roma042987]

Couldn't stay out of it. Looking for an excuse to drive it and "break" in the new engine I drove around visiting with family members so logged nearly 300 miles since yesterday evening. Engine feels awesome.

 

[4Cruisers]

Got the replacement shackle plate in the mail from Cruiser Outfitters on Friday so I finished the installation of the front OME springs yesterday:

I started tearing down the front axle from my '89 FJ62, which is going into the '86 FJ60 project vehicle. I'll clean and paint it, install the knuckle rebuild kit, and replace the tie rod ends. Here's how it sits now:

I've got to get the front end complete to catch up with the progress on the rear axle and suspension:

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Cool to see that. I appreciate the pictures. Amazing how not heavy the head is when it's held by a cable and big length of wood between two people.
I'm not going that deep but yeah mines off now too. I did try a new art form... lapping valves. What a absolute pita.

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F, The way I used to lap valves on my race heads between races was to run the valve in and chuck the stem to a drill. Slather the valve and seat with lap compound and then run the drill on high while adding a bit of pulling pressure. Perfect results every time.

J

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

F, The way I used to lap valves on my race heads between races was to run the valve in and chuck the stem to a drill. Slather the valve and seat with lap compound and then run the drill on high while adding a bit of pulling pressure. Perfect results every time.

J

That's how I did that last one held side to side, valve and its seat. I'm just not 100% how much change I ought to get from them. They are quite pitted. Last thing I want to do is screw up the seats. I'm very open to any and all words from folks who know better.

 

[red66toy]

Made slow but steady progress on the cooling system refresh. New stainless hose clamps from @Racer65 and stainless bolts for the thermostat housing from @davework . Replaced the lower housing with a new unit as two studs broke off inside (of course) the old one. Goal is to finish up the cooling system and HVAC this week. Just need a couple more small key pieces to get it done.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

That's how I did that last one held side to side, valve and its seat. I'm just not 100% how much change I ought to get from them. They are quite pitted. Last thing I want to do is screw up the seats. I'm very open to any and all words from folks who know better.

Anything is better than what they were probably. Its a 2F and while a nice polished un-flawed set are optimal... they will be fine. Most shops would probably say to replace both since they are pitted but I've re-run F/2F/Chevy 235/292 etc valves with no problems for years.

I keep new Toyota OEM valves and Japanese OEM replacements at the warehouse just in case, but unless I'm doing a full rebuild, I hardly ever replace the valves, just clean them up.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Anything is better than what they were probably. Its a 2F and while a nice polished un-flawed set are optimal... they will be fine. Most shops would probably say to replace both since they are pitted but I've re-run F/2F/Chevy 235/292 etc valves with no problems for years.

I keep new Toyota OEM valves and Japanese OEM replacements at the warehouse just in case, but unless I'm doing a full rebuild, I hardly ever replace the valves, just clean them up.

Thanks Jason. That's just what I needed to hear. I've been using that brass brass w/ the valves in the drill so I can push or not push too hard on the faces. Stems too? The intakes are super laden w/ carbon. Any tricks to getting it off?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks Jason. That's just what I needed to hear. I've been using that brass brass w/ the valves in the drill so I can push or not push too hard on the faces. Stems too? The intakes are super laden w/ carbon. Any tricks to getting it off?

Brake cleaner and steel wool or a Scotch-Brite pad.. Even an SOS dish pad works well in a pinch.

 

[red66toy]

Anyone know how to get this bolt out? I want to remove the lower oil cooler pipes to replace some hoses and this bolt is covered by the bracket/pipe! Is it bent or is this how it always is?

 

[4Cruisers]

Here's how it's supposed to be:

The upside of still having the 3FE on the engine stand in the garage is it's easy to get quick photos. The downside is it's still on the engine stand in the garage .

 

[red66toy]

Here's how it's supposed to be:

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The upside of still having the 3FE on the engine stand in the garage is it's easy to get quick photos. The downside is it's still on the engine stand in the garage .

Thanks! That is one clean engine! I'll see if I can pursaide it back into the right position. Is it still available new?

Also, how long is the rubber hose from the tube to the pump supposed to be?

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks! That is one clean engine! I'll see if I can pursaide it back into the right position. Is it still available new?

Also, how long is the rubber hose from the tube to the pump supposed to be?

The clamp and grommet are no longer available separately, but it looks like the pipe, including the clamp and grommet, is available, but it's $76.40 retail.

The hose to the pump is 4-1/8" long.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The clamp and grommet are no longer available separately, but it looks like the pipe, including the clamp and grommet, is available, but it's $76.40 retail.

The hose to the pump is 4-1/8" long.

Couldn't you just use a rubber lined pipe clamp for 1.29 at most hardware stores?

J

 

[red66toy]

The clamp and grommet are no longer available separately, but it looks like the pipe, including the clamp and grommet, is available, but it's $76.40 retail.

The hose to the pump is 4-1/8" long.

Thanks a lot for the measurement!
One of the pipe mounts doesn't even line up. Not sure how it got all buggered.

 

[red66toy]

Couldn't you just use a rubber lined pipe clamp for 1.29 at most hardware stores?

J

If I ruin the clamp that is the plan! The pipe itself seems to be in nice condition thanks to a healthy coating of oil.