What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (40 Viewers)

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As my daily driver Land Rover is in for some much needed maintenance. The 60 was prepped and pulled out of the garage for the first time in 6 months.
Drove it and discovered a dragging right rear brake, no idea why yet, but took it apart, cleaned it up and backed it off (think I need a new adjuster wheel). Also discovered my radio is not working, not a factory radio and it seems to just have died. No problem as it will get replaced with a factory one in the next 2 weeks when I replace my crappy covered dash for one that is much better.

Let it sit over night and drove it to my office this morning which is about 55 miles from my home. Forgot how blinding my pitted windshield was in direct sunlight. So far ran great, lets see how it is tonight on the way home.

No pics as I was to busy driving and enjoying it.
 
now I’m thinking, should I do the timing cover gasket and front crank seal while I’m in there?
It does look pretty caked.

I’ve never attempted anything like that but it seems fairly straight forward except getting the HB off. I’ve got new belts, new idler pulley assembly, and new ac pulley bearings to go in too.

I would if I were you while you have access. Much easier with the radiator out. Some tricks to removing and installing the HB. Nothing big but I would suggest looking at the FSM closely for those steps. Any of that stuff you can do now while the radiator is out would be good to do. HTH.
 
I would if I were you while you have access. Much easier with the radiator out. Some tricks to removing and installing the HB. Nothing big but I would suggest looking at the FSM closely for those steps. Any of that stuff you can do now while the radiator is out would be good to do. HTH.

just ordered the gaskets and now on to the 46mm socket.

any recommendations on sealant to use? Toyota FIPG?
 
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stuck passenger side caliper heavily gouged the rotor
so that led to new brake booster and master cylinder, bift rebuild and new rotors/calipers/pads on both sides.
smooth stopping now.

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many recommendations on sealant to use?

You'll get 100 opinions on that one. I didn't use any sealant at all on the gaskets and followed the FSM recommendations which I don't believe calls for sealant. A lot of folks go ahead and use sealant though, but I tend to follow FSM best I can. I did use some of the Permatex hi-tack spray on the gasket to sort of hold it in place while I worked but not sure even that was needed. Without the sealant and using the cork gasket from Toyota, mine doesn't leak. For an FJ60 the two lower bolts for the timing cover require sealant on them when you install them. I believe those bolt into the front main bearing caps and provide a direct path for oil to escape if not sealed. I would send some brake cleaner in the holes to clear oil out of them to help the sealer set. Also, and sorry of you know this already, the bolts that hold the timing cover on are of different lengths. You will want to make sure the bolts are put back where they came out. Torque settings are in inch pounds not foot pounds. Again all this is in the FSM though. Mines an FJ60 so the only thing I know changes between the two is the torque spec on the crank nut. Much higher for FJ62 versus 60. Might be other changes between the two vehicles but FSM should lay it out. You can take a look at my thread where I got some real-time input from some of the folks on Mud when I was doing this here. Good luck and HTH.
 
Not the weekend, but I just picked up a set of wheels and tyres - original equipment steel chromes.
Funny thing is that I was looking for second hand tyres as I can't afford a new set right now, but found these 70% tyres on the chromes.

Now I have 11 of them.........
The plan is that I can now replace tyres one at a time and have a full set ready to go on when I need them.
The Long term plan is to set up a dual axle trailer as a campertent, and have everything on the same tyres and three spares, when I finally get things together to do some serious trips.
(No they are not for sale, and I am in Australia anyway - freight would kill any deal. :rofl: )
 
I went skiing at local resort Mt. Rose as I do most weekends this time of year. I just happened by their gift shop and spotted this awesome magnet in the shop window:
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The bezel is even right side up! They only had the one left. Too bad I would have bought their entire stock 🙂

Cheers!
-Ed
 
Discovered the source of the squeaking and rattling when the exhaust fell off :lol:

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I was able to get the stock 60 exhaust from the dealer...its one piece from the cat back. Also picked up the donut seals....of course I forgot about the rubber muffler bearings but I got some news ones out of the Amazon.
 
I was able to get the stock 60 exhaust from the dealer...its one piece from the cat back. Also picked up the donut seals....of course I forgot about the rubber muffler bearings but I got some news ones out of the Amazon.

Stock 60 won't work on my FJ60. I'm running a 3FE exhaust. Had the work done a good local shop for $85. Anything from a dealer would be much more.
 
Stock 60 won't work on my FJ60. I'm running a 3FE exhaust. Had the work done a good local shop for $85. Anything from a dealer would be much more.

gotcha. I think the stock 60 piece was about $300 iirc. I just got set of 3FE exhaust manifolds so at some point I'll be running 3FE style down pipes and not sure for what other exhaust.
 
I mixed-n-matched with my '86 FJ60 with 3FE. I had an almost new FJ62 OEM cat-back exhaust in my '89 donor vehicle, and a good FJ60 catalytic converter and exhaust hangers on the '86. The '89 exhaust manifolds, downpipes, Y-pipe, and oxygen sensors were all in good shape. I also had some spare OEM 2-bolt and 3-bolt exhaust flanges laying around, and a spare 2F downpipe. Because the front section of exhaust pipe upstream of the muffler (on the 1-piece cat-back) is about 6 inches shorter on the FJ62, I had the muffler shop fabricate a short pup section, which also transitioned between the 2-bolt and 3-bolt flanges - it took them about 10 minutes and cost me $20. I took the pup section home and fitted everything up temporarily, except for the missing exhaust between the manifolds and the FJ60 catalytic converter. On the next trip to the shop they fabricated a new exhaust section to fill the gap. The major benefit of my approach was the elimination of the section of 3FE exhaust that crosses under the drivers side frame rail. The routing was made possible because I installed an H55f instead of the A440F, which takes up more real estate. That second trip only cost me $200. I was really impressed by their knowledge and the quality of their work - they do most of the custom exhaust work for the low-riders in the Espanola Valley.
 
Well... Most of the visitors have left Moab.. so traffic on the trails will be minimal. Sand is damp.. I'm going wheeling!! This will be the first time since desmog, new exhaust, and sniper install. A friend wants to follow along in his 79 Chevy short bed. He has running boards LOL. I told him I'd help him remove them 😂😆
 

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