What did you do on your 70 series today? (28 Viewers)

[coldtaco]

Following about that grill…still pondering the best way to intercool my bj74. This looks like a cool setup, would like to see more pictures.

I intercooled the 13BT I had in my Canadian BJ70 with parts I ordered off of eBay. Mine didn’t have ac so didn’t have to worry about that. You would need to search for that BJ70 build thread. Not smart enough to find it
On my HJ 75 if you look through that I got the HZ kit but had to source a part or two to make it work on the 12HT/2H. I didn’t install the ac parts since I don’t usually need it here in AK. I got one of the later model plastic grills and was able to shave enough of it off the back side to cover the intercooler. That’s in my HJ75 build thread.

 

[ofer bruhis]

Following about that grill…still pondering the best way to intercool my bj74. This looks like a cool setup, would like to see more pictures.

I think I posted on the build. I don’t want to crowd this forum but I can post more there if you need.

 

[cruiserpilot]

First indication was the little grey streak across the floor of the BJ74. I’ve set traps. His carcass will be used as bait for the rats. Little bugger!! Only parked there for about 3 days while working in the shop on the Tundra. Worst part is going to be vacuuming out the heater core and making sure it’s residual grass is gone. I also will be taping 1/4” galv mesh against the fresh air inlet hole. Had the thing for 8 yrs? now, never got around to rodent proofing the heater fresh air inlet.
For all you guys that want to know, rats won’t chew galvanized metal. 1/4” max size to stop them just sliding thru. I know, I’ve terminated over 300 rats on my farm in the last decade. Most places where I don’t want them, I don’t have them. This was overlooked. Darn!!

 

[cruiserpilot]

Missed one, this is the opening up into the wiper transmission housing. It’s big enough for a cat, let alone a mouse or rat. I recommend screening it. As I will be doing. Pic to follow.

 

[jblueridge]

I bought an oil based undercoating material that has peppermint oil in it to deter rodents.

 

[bj70bc]

at first i thought that was your turbo stuffed full of straw

 

[Redline70]

Been working on my audio system while the truck is in the shop. And no, 11 speakers is not too many speakers. At least not for me…

Aftermarket roof console from Alibaba, recovered to match headliner with two 3.75” coaxials, which will be a mono “center channel”. Added some USB ports to it as well.

Under seat subwoofer mounted on 1/4” ABS isolated from passenger seat frame with rubber spacers.

Amp rack also fabricated out of 1/4” ABS.

Will be replacing dash speakers, plus 6.5” components with 1” tweeters in the doors, and 6x9s coaxials in the rear side panels.

Maybe a bit excessive. Maybe.

 

[Paddler Ed]

First indication was the little grey streak across the floor of the BJ74. I’ve set traps. His carcass will be used as bait for the rats. Little bugger!! Only parked there for about 3 days while working in the shop on the Tundra. Worst part is going to be vacuuming out the heater core and making sure it’s residual grass is gone. I also will be taping 1/4” galv mesh against the fresh air inlet hole. Had the thing for 8 yrs? now, never got around to rodent proofing the heater fresh air inlet.
For all you guys that want to know, rats won’t chew galvanized metal. 1/4” max size to stop them just sliding thru. I know, I’ve terminated over 300 rats on my farm in the last decade. Most places where I don’t want them, I don’t have them. This was overlooked. Darn!!


View attachment 3868521View attachment 3868522View attachment 3868523View attachment 3868524

I know that feeling, that's why my BJ70 has stalled... I've got to find the time to wash all the plastic ducts and then refit them before putting the dash back in...

 

[Combat Wombat]

I used to sneak grotty plastic ducts into the dishwasher and put it on low heat gentle cycle and they come out great.
High pressure karcher can smash holes in the brittle items too.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I just bought a sonic cleaner, but the only thing needing real cleaning is the fan so DAWN dishsoap and a scrub brush it is. I highly recommend leaving the selector on RECIRC, this will stop access. Problem is there is enough of a spot right on top of the door inside the opening to allow them to nest. So as soon as you select fresh air the whole damned thing falls into the heater. Anyhow, yellow painters tape is really strong and thick. Almost a gasket! It will last forever and I taped the screen around the edge of the inlet. Good to go. Happy with the results.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Been working on my audio system while the truck is in the shop. And no, 11 speakers is not too many speakers. At least not for me…

View attachment 3868658
Aftermarket roof console from Alibaba, recovered to match headliner with two 3.75” coaxials, which will be a mono “center channel”. Added some USB ports to it as well.

View attachment 3868660
Under seat subwoofer mounted on 1/4” ABS isolated from passenger seat frame with rubber spacers.

View attachment 3868659
Amp rack also fabricated out of 1/4” ABS.

Will be replacing dash speakers, plus 6.5” components with 1” tweeters in the doors, and 6x9s coaxials in the rear side panels.

View attachment 3868663

Maybe a bit excessive. Maybe.

Ya know, when you drive that thru a river and the seats get wet you’re gonna have troubles with that stereo?! But that being said I wish you were closer and could come over and help me figure mine out.
I got nothing…

 

[bj70bc]

I just bought a sonic cleaner, but the only thing needing real cleaning is the fan so DAWN dishsoap and a scrub brush it is. I highly recommend leaving the selector on RECIRC, this will stop access. Problem is there is enough of a spot right on top of the door inside the opening to allow them to nest. So as soon as you select fresh air the whole damned thing falls into the heater. Anyhow, yellow painters tape is really strong and thick. Almost a gasket! It will last forever and I taped the screen around the edge of the inlet. Good to go. Happy with the results.

View attachment 3868793View attachment 3868794View attachment 3868795View attachment 3868796

i pulled one of my frame plugs out the other day to find the frame rail filled with insulation pieces and peanuts
little bastards

 

[cruiserpilot]

i pulled one of my frame plugs out the other day to find the frame rail filled with insulation pieces and peanuts
little bastards

Hey, at least it’s dry and won’t rust!

 

[joekatana]

Today I worked on the Cruiser driver door a bit. I've got several issues to deal with:

• Sticky/hard-to-crank side window
• Crack in the paint/metal?
• Wobbly beltline moldings
• Missing vapor barrier
• Dubious door card
• Completely worn-out old door card trim fasteners that have been reused way too many times
• It would be nice to add sound deadening

I hope to address all of these issues in one go while I have things torn apart.

I started by pulling the side window glass, followed by the beltline moldings. I have new plastic clips, so I wasn't handling stuff like a gorilla, but also figured I didn't need total kid gloves because if the clips break with standard removal, they are probably old/brittle and should be replaced anyway.

You may have noticed the yellow strip; I started sanding where the crack is to see what is going on below the paint/filler.

Yup, the crack looks to be down to the metal.

Going deeper; quite a bit of filler feathered really far out to blend this in.

Hard to tell what is going on in the back side of the crack inside the door, but there is some sort of build up on the back, but not something that bridges/bonds both sides of the crack as I'm able to flex each side of the crack independently of each other.

I think the root of the problem is damage that was never repaired to the sheet metal on the smaller side of the hole for the beltline trim clip; the small return on the edge of the inner door skin that is angled towards the inside of the door. It looks like it got bent and cracked, which lead to the bigger crack that propagated on the visible part of the inner door skin.

The bend is highlighted by the yellow line. I believe this part is supposed to be flat/straight. Can anyone confirm? If not I will check by referencing the passenger door. The green arrow points toward the crack. With this part broken, vibration goes to work on the crack on the far side of the trim clip hole.

Old 7x doors with cracks is a very common sight , the bondo over the cracks luckily not . You can just weld the cracks again although the metal can be thin at these spots so use low power settings on your welder

 

[chap79]

The little things.

 

[Redtexan]

Got this tester kit and unfortunately, it changed from blue to green fluid indicating a combustion chamber leak. This is my sneaking suspicion unfortunately so head gasket potentially bad or cracked head. now I have to tear into it….FML!!

 

[OGBeno]

Par for the course with the KZ family of engines. Luckily everything is still available for them including new cylinder heads.... Head's are available here in the US for quite a reasonable amount of money: 11101-69128. 3 available in the US.

 

[Tanner H]

Got this tester kit and unfortunately, it changed from blue to green fluid indicating a combustion chamber leak. This is my sneaking suspicion unfortunately so head gasket potentially bad or cracked head. now I have to tear into it….FML!!

@Redtexan What symptoms were you experiencing that made you test it? Just wondering.

 

[CRZR45]

View attachment 3869557
Got this tester kit and unfortunately, it changed from blue to green fluid indicating a combustion chamber leak. This is my sneaking suspicion unfortunately so head gasket potentially bad or cracked head. now I have to tear into it….FML!!

View attachment 3869559

Good luck! I just went thru this. Just get all oem gaskets and you will be good for a long time!

 

[AirheadNut]

View attachment 3869557
Got this tester kit and unfortunately, it changed from blue to green fluid indicating a combustion chamber leak. This is my sneaking suspicion unfortunately so head gasket potentially bad or cracked head. now I have to tear into it….FML!!

View attachment 3869559

Unfortunately it seems that for both the L and KZ engines the head gasket is rarely the failure point, it is almost always the cylinder head.