What did you do on your 70 series today? (32 Viewers)

[Redline70]

https://www.raptorliner.ca/uploads/6/9/6/5/6965393/raptor_sop_flexible_plastic.pdf

From this, it seems like you technically could with the right preparation. I’m not an audio engineer, but the whole point of butyl/aluminum “sound deadening” as its generally called is to prevent panels from resonating.

If you are trying to prevent sound from entering the cabin from the outside, such as road noise, drivetrain noise, etc. you need something that will block sound, like mass loaded vinyl, or will help dampen it, like fiber or foam. I’m sure butyl backed aluminum has some effect on exterior sound intrusion, but its not what it is designed to do.

So, while you probably could cover the dynamat with bedliner, if your primary objective is a quieter interior with less exterior noise penetration, you will probably want to look at and research a combination of other products, such as closed cell foam (sidewalls), MLV, carpet underlayments (Duracushion is a rubber option to reduce water retention concerns), fiber insulation (for your roof), etc. Any/all of these would almost certainly need to be on top of any bedliner to function.

 

[CRZR45]

Head gasket job almost done. Waiting on my re built injectors and see if I did it right all new hoses. The bypass hose was split inside.. glad I put all new rubber hoses on.

 

[ae86andkp61]

I recently sent my sun-faded, chafed, abraded old seatbelts off to Safety Restore for re-webbing. I got them back and got ready to re-install. I’m excited with how well they came out.

 

[Tanner H]

I work for a suspension company so I brought a couple home to test on my KZJ. We dont offer anyhting off the shelf for this platform. Lining up compressed/extended is no problem, but since my factory shocks are blown, its a bit of trial and error when it comes to the valving.

Also installed the infamous AVM manual hub locks. Time will tell if they hold up. After installing the hub locks, I soldered in a 50 resistor at the e-hubs plug to avoid the flashing hub lock light that most people run into.

I left the 4-stud mounting design in place in case I chose to go back to e hubs, but if these are ok then I'll swap the studs out for the included through bolts provided.

 

[LDRF]

I work for a suspension company so I brought a couple home to test on my KZJ. We dont offer anyhting off the shelf for this platform. Lining up compressed/extended is no problem, but since my factory shocks are blown, its a bit of trial and error when it comes to the valving.

Also installed the infamous AVM manual hub locks. Time will tell if they hold up. After installing the hub locks, I soldered in a 50 resistor at the e-hubs plug to avoid the flashing hub lock light that most people run into.

I left the 4-stud mounting design in place in case I chose to go back to e hubs, but if these are ok then I'll swap the studs out for the included through bolts provided.



View attachment 3863791

Hopefully your field research might lead to a couple Land Cruiser 70 Series entries on your companies Application Search.

 

[Meshal]

doing the whole underneath then going through the engine.

 

[SNLC]

All that is left of a 79-series frame.

Cheers

 

[Redtexan]

Driving into work today my temp gauge start to go up to right below the red when I went above 80km/h. Never did this before. Driving around the parking lot looking for a space to park for about 5 minutes and the temp gauge was perfect. Drove back home after work and it did the same thing after warming up and had to go below 80Km/h.. Put on the heat and it was blowing hot air and did not really help with the temp gauge going up if I sped up past 80km/h.

I have a new radiator and blue fan clutch less than 10k and i've gone up to the mountains (3 plus hour trip) a couple times to hit the slopes with no issues. Overflow reservoir is at the correct level. Checked oil level and oil is clean and not milky so head gasket should be fine. Put in about a quart of distilled water (didn't have any red coolant) because rad was low (which was unusual), but again, do not have any leaks and really have not checked it since replacing it. Have 360k on engine. A couple of things come to mind:

-water pump going bad (don't know when it was replaced last...how do I know it is going bad?)
-thermostat bad (didn't change it when I changed the new radiator and fan clutch....probably should have but again, over 10k ago with no issues and it looked newish when I took it off)
-temp sensor going bad (how would I know?)

I just took my dash apart to install new background lights, but did not touch the gauges. Ended up putting the OEM ones back in because the aftermarket ones did not do what I wanted.

Just installed a snorkel and new airbox to turbo straight pipe, but that would not effect coolant temp.

Belts are fine.

Spun fan with engine off and some resistance so fan clutch good....again....less thank 10k on it.

Any help would be much appreciated!!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Just to clarify... KZJ Prado 70 right?

Where'd the coolant go is one question? Water pump generally has a weep bypass hole at the bottom where you'll see signs of water if it's failing.

I would've suggested fan clutch first if overheating at speed but it's new. Maybe you need to confirm the guage is correct first? Cheap laser temp gun will help there...

 

[Redtexan]

Just to clarify... KZJ Prado 70 right?

Where'd the coolant go is one question? Water pump generally has a weep bypass hole at the bottom where you'll see signs of water if it's failing.

I would've suggested fan clutch first if overheating at speed but it's new. Maybe you need to confirm the guage is correct first? Cheap laser temp gun will help there...

Yep 94' Prado 78 series 1KZ-TE. At idle the temps are great so I guess need to hold down the throttle to rev it up to see if that changes in park. I was also thinking a bubble in the system because I have not ran her for about 4 weeks with snorkel and tie rods being replaced. But why would a bubble come out of no where? Temps here have been cold...single digits and then this past week in the 60s. Today was windy as heck and started to snow on the drive home........

 

[OGBeno]

Stop driving it and start testing it.

1. Leak down
2. Compression
3. Look for hose leaks at all of the HVAC connections.

You don’t know what you don’t know until you know.

1KZ-TEs crack heads….

 

[ofer bruhis]

Did a little heat gun restoration on some rather rough interior plastic I grabbed from the salvage yard.

Quite far from perfect, but considering these had likely spent many years exposed to the heat, sun, and elements, and I am pleased with the results. One example below.

Before:
View attachment 3862968

Top half of part heat treated:
View attachment 3862956

Close up:
View attachment 3862957

After with a healthy coat of ArmorAll:
View attachment 3862958

Final photo accentuates the remaining scratches; looks even better in person. Still very clearly not new from the factory, but not too shabby at all for a piece of plastic that has lived a very rough life, in my opinion.

You can paint it with fine texture and it all will disappear.

 

[Guyute]

Driving into work today my temp gauge start to go up to right below the red when I went above 80km/h. Never did this before. Driving around the parking lot looking for a space to park for about 5 minutes and the temp gauge was perfect. Drove back home after work and it did the same thing after warming up and had to go below 80Km/h.. Put on the heat and it was blowing hot air and did not really help with the temp gauge going up if I sped up past 80km/h.

I have a new radiator and blue fan clutch less than 10k and i've gone up to the mountains (3 plus hour trip) a couple times to hit the slopes with no issues. Overflow reservoir is at the correct level. Checked oil level and oil is clean and not milky so head gasket should be fine. Put in about a quart of distilled water (didn't have any red coolant) because rad was low (which was unusual), but again, do not have any leaks and really have not checked it since replacing it. Have 360k on engine. A couple of things come to mind:

-water pump going bad (don't know when it was replaced last...how do I know it is going bad?)
-thermostat bad (didn't change it when I changed the new radiator and fan clutch....probably should have but again, over 10k ago with no issues and it looked newish when I took it off)
-temp sensor going bad (how would I know?)

I just took my dash apart to install new background lights, but did not touch the gauges. Ended up putting the OEM ones back in because the aftermarket ones did not do what I wanted.

Just installed a snorkel and new airbox to turbo straight pipe, but that would not effect coolant temp.

Belts are fine.

Spun fan with engine off and some resistance so fan clutch good....again....less thank 10k on it.

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Them radiators are precious and fragile little flowers handled by angry parts and delivery peoples. A new radiator doesn't mean it doesn't leak/hold pressure. Not always an obvious visible leak and sounds like you lost coolant.

 

[coldtaco]

Double check grounds in the instrument cluster. When my 2H cracked it didn’t show any signs until I drove over 55mph, but in my case the water temp didn’t really fluctuate Maci but it would overflow above 55mph.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Them radiators are precious and fragile little flowers handled by angry parts and delivery peoples. A new radiator doesn't mean it doesn't leak/hold pressure. Not always an obvious visible leak and sounds like you lost coolant.

For sure. Boiled off coolant can be hard to find.

I don't like that your gauge surged. Toyota is pretty conservative with temp gauges...temperature variation has to be pretty severe to spike an OEM gauge from what I've seen.

And yeah. 1kz heads aren't made by Humpty Dumpty (maker of the LJ head) but maybe his second cousin?

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Just curious, have you noticed fluctuations in the fuel gauge while the temp gauge is spiking?

 

[grubscrew]

18 degrees, full sun, a slight low humidity easterly , and the Mrs went out!
Chassis paint then.
Two coats of semi thinned , to tack the next two neat coats. Thick old stuff, with the pressure upped, and spray pattern altered she’s all black and looking good.
Thought I’d do the underside as it’s the recipient of all the worst of debris , and under the chassis to do topside. On inspection it all seemed great. No doubt missed the odd bit, but easily rectified . Once cured Ill flip it .

 

[Redtexan]

Just curious, have you noticed fluctuations in the fuel gauge while the temp gauge is spiking?

Nope. Stays constant. Going to check the lower rad hose temp tomorrow when I run the engine for a while. If it’s cold and top ones hot, bad thermostat would be my guess

 

[mt72]

Nope. Stays constant. Going to check the lower rad hose temp tomorrow when I run the engine for a while. If it’s cold and top ones hot, bad thermostat would be my guess

That would confirm everything!

 

[Tanner H]

Fingers crossed for you its just a t-stat stuck closed.

Since we are on the topic of thermostats...I remember someone posted the ''aussie'' thermostat for the 1kste. It was a toyota part number that they all run down there to keep things running cooler. I dont have the part number but I remember it being the ''71c'' Toyota Thermostat.