Axle building day!
What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Parts inventory this morning. Seem to just be missing the kitchen sink.
PS upgrade parts for the 77 plus a few odds and ends. Think I'm ready to rock.
PS upgrade parts for the 77 plus a few odds and ends. Think I'm ready to rock.
Pimp. Did you get the later gear box with the upgraded sector shaft?
You know it! Thanks to you and SNLC for your previous research/posts on the matter. Mostly RHD 79 series stuff. Made more sense than a 'rebuild' to me. But then I nickel/dimed myself with all new everything else in the area and now I'm in deep-deep.
Nice, Brian. It’s the way to go. Won’t have to worry about shît for the remainder of your life. Literally.
Well , I washed and cleaned 4 months of dust off the 70. 
All clean and shiny , so I drove it in to my favourite coffee shop and had a hot tea. The snow is all gone and our local highways contractor has washed all the shytty snow removal poisons off the roads, so they are safe for the BJ to be on them again.
All clean and shiny , so I drove it in to my favourite coffee shop and had a hot tea. The snow is all gone and our local highways contractor has washed all the shytty snow removal poisons off the roads, so they are safe for the BJ to be on them again.
-assessed and caressed the 70 over a
-found 3 separate rub interference snafoos on the air to water intercooler setup i installed
-adjusted 555 tie rod ends, 1 was good, 1 needed turning in a few turns
-added a bluesea 1750 amp glow-in-the-dark winch shutoff switch, replacing my dodgy 400amp chinashiit unit
-sleeved, wire loomed, heat shrunk and secured my hot winch leed (24 volt likes to weld things!)
-replaced hot side battery post clamp
-cleaned all the mud out of my engine bay
-re mounted my overflow tank securely with new multi duty brackets for winch shutoff and relays,
-charged both batteries to full
- EDIT- sprayed everyfaulkingthing with anti corrosion goo
-had another
-found 3 separate rub interference snafoos on the air to water intercooler setup i installed
-adjusted 555 tie rod ends, 1 was good, 1 needed turning in a few turns
-added a bluesea 1750 amp glow-in-the-dark winch shutoff switch, replacing my dodgy 400amp chinashiit unit
-sleeved, wire loomed, heat shrunk and secured my hot winch leed (24 volt likes to weld things!)
-replaced hot side battery post clamp
-cleaned all the mud out of my engine bay
-re mounted my overflow tank securely with new multi duty brackets for winch shutoff and relays,
-charged both batteries to full
- EDIT- sprayed everyfaulkingthing with anti corrosion goo
-had another
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yup roads are ready, trails are readyWell , I washed and cleaned 4 months of dust off the 70.
Lower rad hose was cold after running and upper hot. Temps stayed normal though, however there was bubbling coming from the over flow and smoke. After cooled, took off rad cap and rad low again. No signs of leaks. Oil is still normal looking. I bought a chemical kit to test the rad fluid to see if there is leak by. Engines rungs great and I don’t know where the fluid is going or why it is not taking from the overflow and check line, it’s clear to allow flow. Got an OEM 82c stat from Japan. Sucks bc this is my primary vehicle and I’m moving in a couple months to Florida with orders so I got to figure something out. Will post results from rad test to see if head or gasket is bad.
thats pretty much what happens when the headgasket is bad, it pushes the fluid to the overflow from pressure of combustion over pressuring the coolant system, where it overflows, and then you're low on coolant, happens enough youll be low enough on coolant and overheat.....
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Drove an hour to Fastenal to collect Datsun 260Z gearbox for MGB project.
Made a visit to the pre-eminent Toyota differential builder in the US to pickup some 70 series differentials with Eatons.
The famous Zuk.
www.gearinstalls.com
Ken is the man. The guru. No one does them better. I’m lucky he is only 5hrs from me.
The famous Zuk.
www.gearinstalls.com
Ken is the man. The guru. No one does them better. I’m lucky he is only 5hrs from me.
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Yeah I kind of figured that much. I have some work cut out for me because I haven't replaced a head in over 30 years. I need to find all the gaskets and correct setup, but should probably tear it all down first before I start ordering things. Part of me wants to now just pull the engine and trans and put in something I can get stuff at the local parts store that would allow me to drive across country without worry, but have not researched the best conversation engine and trans for my 78 Series.
Finally troopy is moving by its own power. Picked up from @orangefj45. The crew there is fantastic. Towed it to my shop (we actually build very high end joysticks for the military drones) and spent the day today modifying the prototype grill that @kelly saad so it will fit with the intercooler. I’ll change the front screen to the small hexagons like my 80. I still need to adjust the hood and then take it all apart and install the new fenders that are being painted. Bumpers curtesy of Luke 4x4labs.
Today I worked on the Cruiser driver door a bit. I've got several issues to deal with:
I started by pulling the side window glass, followed by the beltline moldings. I have new plastic clips, so I wasn't handling stuff like a gorilla, but also figured I didn't need total kid gloves because if the clips break with standard removal, they are probably old/brittle and should be replaced anyway.
You may have noticed the yellow strip; I started sanding where the crack is to see what is going on below the paint/filler.
Yup, the crack looks to be down to the metal.
Going deeper; quite a bit of filler feathered really far out to blend this in.
Hard to tell what is going on in the back side of the crack inside the door, but there is some sort of build up on the back, but not something that bridges/bonds both sides of the crack as I'm able to flex each side of the crack independently of each other.
I think the root of the problem is damage that was never repaired to the sheet metal on the smaller side of the hole for the beltline trim clip; the small return on the edge of the inner door skin that is angled towards the inside of the door. It looks like it got bent and cracked, which lead to the bigger crack that propagated on the visible part of the inner door skin.
The bend is highlighted by the yellow line. I believe this part is supposed to be flat/straight. Can anyone confirm? If not I will check by referencing the passenger door. The green arrow points toward the crack. With this part broken, vibration goes to work on the crack on the far side of the trim clip hole.
- Sticky/hard-to-crank side window
- Crack in the paint/metal?
- Wobbly beltline moldings
- Missing vapor barrier
- Dubious door card
- Completely worn-out old door card trim fasteners that have been reused way too many times
- It would be nice to add sound deadening
I started by pulling the side window glass, followed by the beltline moldings. I have new plastic clips, so I wasn't handling stuff like a gorilla, but also figured I didn't need total kid gloves because if the clips break with standard removal, they are probably old/brittle and should be replaced anyway.
You may have noticed the yellow strip; I started sanding where the crack is to see what is going on below the paint/filler.
Yup, the crack looks to be down to the metal.
Going deeper; quite a bit of filler feathered really far out to blend this in.
Hard to tell what is going on in the back side of the crack inside the door, but there is some sort of build up on the back, but not something that bridges/bonds both sides of the crack as I'm able to flex each side of the crack independently of each other.
I think the root of the problem is damage that was never repaired to the sheet metal on the smaller side of the hole for the beltline trim clip; the small return on the edge of the inner door skin that is angled towards the inside of the door. It looks like it got bent and cracked, which lead to the bigger crack that propagated on the visible part of the inner door skin.
The bend is highlighted by the yellow line. I believe this part is supposed to be flat/straight. Can anyone confirm? If not I will check by referencing the passenger door. The green arrow points toward the crack. With this part broken, vibration goes to work on the crack on the far side of the trim clip hole.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Following about that grill…still pondering the best way to intercool my bj74. This looks like a cool setup, would like to see more pictures.
