Nice and handy to park on the wrong side of town or when you leave your cruiser near the trails . Haven't seen one of these in ages anymore . Where did you get it ?
What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I bought 2 of them years ago. Heard he was not going to sell them anymore but website shows them still…
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Did I just go to a geocities page?
I have something even more sophisticated in my rig. Was put in by the PO in Spain for insurance reasons:
A hydraulic lock that disables the clutch circuit. I was told, to engage it, you press the clutch and lock it, and the clutch stays disengaged, even when pedal is released. But I never dared using it, as I'm afraid it might leak or bind. I guess it's seized anyways.
Cheers Ralf
A hydraulic lock that disables the clutch circuit. I was told, to engage it, you press the clutch and lock it, and the clutch stays disengaged, even when pedal is released. But I never dared using it, as I'm afraid it might leak or bind. I guess it's seized anyways.
Cheers Ralf
JDM Journeys
Moderator
I've put my tcase in neutral now and then, when parked somewhere suspect, figuring a would be thief might not be savvy enough to figure out why it's not moving?
Joined a few friends for dinner. A nice cross-section of Land Cruisers.
How did someone manage to get a dual cab 79 series? I thought those wouldn't be legal until 2037.
Built from parts by the folks at Odd Iron.
grubscrew
SILVER Star
I recently did the same sort of lock on my work vehicle, this one is an auto box, but the principal is the same. Welded up a 6mm plate and got the angles right. Bolted to the transmission tunnel.
The padlock is Mul T Lock
The padlock is Mul T Lock
$140 to ship a table from one side of our little city to the other!?! Nah. I'll pick it up in the rain at the sketchy warehouse with an inconvenient trailer. Thanks.
Then I finally routed the GRMS cable for the Alamosa antenna. Old antenna cable routed through the roof panel in the rear then to a FRO mount on the rack. PO already had holes drilled for those lights. Always a PITA when I pull the rack. Yanked out my CB and filled the space with a cubby pocket while I was in there.
Doesn't fit in the garage with the antenna and do a fair amount of city living. So found a weiner cap on the Amazon for the base. Stow the antenna in the rig when necessary.
Then I finally routed the GRMS cable for the Alamosa antenna. Old antenna cable routed through the roof panel in the rear then to a FRO mount on the rack. PO already had holes drilled for those lights. Always a PITA when I pull the rack. Yanked out my CB and filled the space with a cubby pocket while I was in there.
Doesn't fit in the garage with the antenna and do a fair amount of city living. So found a weiner cap on the Amazon for the base. Stow the antenna in the rig when necessary.
whered you get the cable from? Is feeding the new cable as hard as some people make it to be.
Not hard....took a little patience with the dash......had to pull the cluster out to install new
I got it from cruiserparts.net
Hello,
I noticed your truck has a grommet for the indicator lever. I also noticed you have the pull-up hazard switch. Both are standard in the soft top 70 Series, not in hard top models.
Did it come with the grommets?
Just curious.
Juan
Hi
Yes, it did. And yes, it is a conversion to FRP.
It has a home made rollbar, resembling the original, with the original pads on it, but e.g. no handles. The wheel wells lack the plateu brackets to base the rollbare on. Actually quite a hack job. The rear door originally had the spare wheel carrier inside. An outside carrier was added. But the internal structure don't support this, so the 'expert' literally put a lump of wood inside the door to fill the gap. Of course that's not really working: The door skin has buckled quite a bit. The seats are from an LJ. The rig has no factory provisions for the rear bench. It was bolted straight trough the floor, without any bracing (Is removed now).
I have removable door tops, though, which are in nice condition; no rust. Also it has an aftermarket AC, but with original parts, nicely done.
No idea who did all this. Originally it came from Spain, then was in The Netherlands, was licensed there for a while and then sat there for 4ish years in a barn. Then it got 'restored' and sold. I got it from a guy in Duesseldorf.
When I got the truck, I had no idea of all this.
Back then, I posted some pics in the German Buschtaxi.net to introduce myself. A fellow Cruiserhead made contact, saying he might know the truck from when it sat in The Netherlands. We verified he was right. He had looked at the truck in its original state back then, before it got 'restored', considering to buy it as a project. But the PO ask too much, so he walked away. But he had photo-documented the rig before it was 'restored' and shared this to me. Well, at least I now know where it had rust before.
From the pics it can be seen that the conversion to FRP-TOP was already done at that time, probably in Spain.
Since I own it, I have been all over the truck and into each cavity with a bore cam. Yes, it has been 'restored' several times. But actually quite OK. No rust left, welds are Ok. Only the paintjob is a disaster.
Other than that, it's a nice truck with character. Mechanically I had little issues with it. Water pump replaced, power steering pump resealed, knuckle job, callipers. That's basically it.
I guess, stories like this have to be expected when going for a 35+ year old vehicle, which you haven't restored yourself. I guess, I'm lucky it worked out OK for me.
Cheers Ralf
Pic of its original state
Hello,Hi
Yes, it did. And yes, it is a conversion to FRP.
It has a home made rollbar, resembling the original, with the original pads on it, but e.g. no handles. The wheel wells lack the plateu brackets to base the rollbare on. Actually quite a hack job. The rear door originally had the spare wheel carrier inside. An outside carrier was added. But the internal structure don't support this, so the 'expert' literally put a lump of wood inside the door to fill the gap. Of course that's not really working: The door skin has buckled quite a bit. The seats are from an LJ. The rig has no factory provisions for the rear bench. It was bolted straight trough the floor, without any bracing (Is removed now).
I have removable door tops, though, which are in nice condition; no rust. Also it has an aftermarket AC, but with original parts, nicely done.
No idea who did all this. Originally it came from Spain, then was in The Netherlands, was licensed there for a while and then sat there for 4ish years in a barn. Then it got 'restored' and sold. I got it from a guy in Duesseldorf.
When I got the truck, I had no idea of all this.
Back then, I posted some pics in the German Buschtaxi.net to introduce myself. A fellow Cruiserhead made contact, saying he might know the truck from when it sat in The Netherlands. We verified he was right. He had looked at the truck in its original state back then, before it got 'restored', considering to buy it as a project. But the PO ask too much, so he walked away. But he had photo-documented the rig before it was 'restored' and shared this to me. Well, at least I now know where it had rust before.
From the pics it can be seen that the conversion to FRP-TOP was already done at that time, probably in Spain.
Since I own it, I have been all over the truck and into each cavity with a bore cam. Yes, it has been 'restored' several times. But actually quite OK. No rust left, welds are Ok. Only the paintjob is a disaster.
Other than that, it's a nice truck with character. Mechanically I had little issues with it. Water pump replaced, power steering pump resealed, knuckle job, callipers. That's basically it.
I guess, stories like this have to be expected when going for a 35+ year old vehicle, which you haven't restored yourself. I guess, I'm lucky it worked out OK for me.
Cheers Ralf
Pic of its original state
View attachment 3837770
What an interesting story.
My 73 Series also spent time in a barn or warehouse because the PO could not drive anymore.
There are POs who either "restore" or "modify" their 70 Series for sale, assuming that it increases the sale value. Not a good idea if you ask me.
It is a good thing that there is no rust.
Are the axle bearings/seals replaced? Just curious.
Juan
Had my odometer stop working and took it apart to figure out the problem. After some cleaning and little WD on the springs, it seems to be back to normal.
Hi
I did the front knuckles after 1.5 years; new seals and also bearings once I was in there. Just the normal stuff once the soup seeps out. Guess the seal went out due to clogged breathers. Haven't been into the rear axle or diffs since I own the truck. Brake job all around, but rather to be on the safe side. New radiator hoses and -after 4 years- new handbrake cable. TLC, that's it. Also painted the frame and conserved the body with cavity grease.
The PO who had it sitting in the barn was an LC enthusiast, who was in his late 70s already. (I was told only later). When I assessed the truck later, I came to the conclusion that the PO certainly restored it to sell it, but did a good and honest job to provide a reasonably restored and maintained vehicle, for what the base was. Not perfect, but in good working order. But, apparently, at some point, he ran out of passion, time or capabilities, as there are some aspects on it (e.g. the paintjob, the side steps and the fender flares), which do not match the standard of the rest of the vehicle.
I certainly knew it was a gamble to buy this rig. And yes, experts may call it overpriced (I won't tell $$
) But I don't have the facilities to restore a truck myself. I got a sound foundation that enabled me to do the rest by myself and learn on it. I got what I was looking for and I'm happy with it. I know, I was lucky, though.Cheers Ralf
Shift knob was sweat-polished and slippery, lever paint was chipping and rusting. So sanded and painted (carefully) and then put 1-1/2" 3:1 shrink tube over the whole lever (also carefully). Looks and feels great and should be durable. Topped it off with TRD leather knob, part # MS204-00004. It's the small stuff 
Loved this "inconvenient" trailer!...
Hi
I did the front knuckles after 1.5 years; new seals and also bearings once I was in there. Just the normal stuff once the soup seeps out. Guess the seal went out due to clogged breathers. Haven't been into the rear axle or diffs since I own the truck. Brake job all around, but rather to be on the safe side. New radiator hoses and -after 4 years- new handbrake cable. TLC, that's it. Also painted the frame and conserved the body with cavity grease.
The PO who had it sitting in the barn was an LC enthusiast, who was in his late 70s already. (I was told only later). When I assessed the truck later, I came to the conclusion that the PO certainly restored it to sell it, but did a good and honest job to provide a reasonably restored and maintained vehicle, for what the base was. Not perfect, but in good working order. But, apparently, at some point, he ran out of passion, time or capabilities, as there are some aspects on it (e.g. the paintjob, the side steps and the fender flares), which do not match the standard of the rest of the vehicle.
I certainly knew it was a gamble to buy this rig. And yes, experts may call it overpriced (I won't tell $$
Cheers Ralf
Great story Ralph, anyway!
