What did you do on your 70 series today? (21 Viewers)

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Drove it for the first time today since starting:
New OME suspension complete
Knuckle rebuild
New steering arm upper/lower bearings
New tie/relay rod ends
New sway bar bushings
New front rotors, rebuilt calipers, extended rubber brake line to calipers
New wheel studs and nuts

Still need to dial-in alignment and recenter the steering wheel. Then recheck torque all around after some local miles.

Took a long while working without heat on the concrete floor in a canvas canopy in NY in the winter!

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Built a quick sleep platform (6’ long!) 73/74 series are long enough to sleep in if you are under 6’. I will fine tune it when I get back from Death Valley.

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Aftermarkets?

Canbus fixed my high beam indicator light issue.

JTX Toyota CANBUS Module (Pair) – JTX Lighting - https://www.jtxlighting.com/product/canbus/

I have a set of the 12V version if needed. Ordered 24V and they sent 12V the first round.
they are aftermarket. The lights work both low and high beam, the indicator on the dash does not shine when I put on the high beam. I have this attached to the system. Is this the same as the CANBUS module? My system is 24v, but thank you!!

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Swapped the Autometer trans gauge that I never wired for an Auber over the weekend. Curtains match the drapes now. Pain to crack that 22mm output line! Penetrating oil/time, heat then the crows foot and a breaker bar finally did it.

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Intended to use that Autometer gauge and short sweep sensor with a Radd Cruisers drilled/tapped union. The Auber sensor is too long and would restrict flow. So, pivoted and used an OEM union (9407-20006) with an adapter. Eliminated the stock sensor/warning/dummy light.

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If anyone wants to run this union with the Autometer gauge LMK. I'll sell the get up. It's all shiny new.

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When your water temp matches your trans temp. Confusing. I'm slow and forgetful and fairly ugly so I may need to label these. I'm all Auber'd now. Boost, EGT, trans and water temps.

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Test drive to work today. Stopped to check ATF level and got a full body shot with the new Alamosa antenna. No trans leaks at the union. Get the skids and front driveline back on tonight. Good times.

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great job and nice looking rig!!! I need look into adding gauges with trans, turbo, etc in the near future. All my stuff is original when it comes to gauges, but i'm looking at doing an intercooler and trans cooler because I will be moving to warmer climates in the summer time while possibly towing a motorcycle. I am currently looking for a snorkel to fit my rig, but none seem to be for the 1KZ-TE that I can find. I guess that shouldn't matter as long as it fits my pillar..
 
they are aftermarket. The lights work both low and high beam, the indicator on the dash does not shine when I put on the high beam. I have this attached to the system. Is this the same as the CANBUS module? My system is 24v, but thank you!!

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It does. But I don't think all are created equal. Toyotas are weird. Electrical voodoo stuff I don't fully understand but I also had some other modules and one headlight was flickering and never had the hi-beam indicator. The PO installed my lights so had no idea what they were/are. The google led me to the JTX page. They describe the reverse polarity and grounding issues with Toyota lights. Boom. Ordered. Fixed.

Clipped from their site >>

These new SMART modules by JTX now do the job of our old loom which addressed negative switching and they also fix the blue hi beam dash lights and spotties – it’s an all in one solution.

To eliminate confusion we set out to make these as fool proof as possible. Simply plug these into the headlight sockets and then plug your new LED lights into these. And that’s all there is to it. No loom and no auto-elec’s needed.

These now fix all of the following …

  • Negative or Earth switching which all toyotas have
  • Reverse polarity issues
  • Blue hi-beam dash light
  • Spotties not coming on in high beam
  • Some cars have computers polling to test loads and these satisfy those computers too.
No matter what brand of LED or even HID you are trying to use, if you have a Toyota or a Suzuki then you do need these and these are all you need.

You need 1 module per light. This listing is for 2 modules. If you have 4 lights you will need a second set.
 
It does. But I don't think all are created equal. Toyotas are weird. Electrical voodoo stuff I don't fully understand but I also had some other modules and one headlight was flickering and never had the hi-beam indicator. The PO installed my lights so had no idea what they were/are. The google led me to the JTX page. They describe the reverse polarity and grounding issues with Toyota lights. Boom. Ordered. Fixed.

Clipped from their site >>

These new SMART modules by JTX now do the job of our old loom which addressed negative switching and they also fix the blue hi beam dash lights and spotties – it’s an all in one solution.

To eliminate confusion we set out to make these as fool proof as possible. Simply plug these into the headlight sockets and then plug your new LED lights into these. And that’s all there is to it. No loom and no auto-elec’s needed.

These now fix all of the following …


  • Negative or Earth switching which all toyotas have
  • Reverse polarity issues
  • Blue hi-beam dash light
  • Spotties not coming on in high beam
  • Some cars have computers polling to test loads and these satisfy those computers too.
No matter what brand of LED or even HID you are trying to use, if you have a Toyota or a Suzuki then you do need these and these are all you need.

You need 1 module per light. This listing is for 2 modules. If you have 4 lights you will need a second set.
Yeah that is great info man thanks a lot! I might even upgrade my front light look with stuff they have. Will post once fixed. Thanks again!!
 
Anyone considering the Tru-Cool LPD47391 trans cooler, go for it! It is a near-perfect fit (had to drill one hole in mounting bracket) for the KZJ78. Be sure to buy the real deal ($149) and not the $69 counterfeits from Ebay or Amazon.

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It does. But I don't think all are created equal. Toyotas are weird. Electrical voodoo stuff I don't fully understand but I also had some other modules and one headlight was flickering and never had the hi-beam indicator. The PO installed my lights so had no idea what they were/are. The google led me to the JTX page. They describe the reverse polarity and grounding issues with Toyota lights. Boom. Ordered. Fixed.

Clipped from their site >>

These new SMART modules by JTX now do the job of our old loom which addressed negative switching and they also fix the blue hi beam dash lights and spotties – it’s an all in one solution.

To eliminate confusion we set out to make these as fool proof as possible. Simply plug these into the headlight sockets and then plug your new LED lights into these. And that’s all there is to it. No loom and no auto-elec’s needed.

These now fix all of the following …


  • Negative or Earth switching which all toyotas have
  • Reverse polarity issues
  • Blue hi-beam dash light
  • Spotties not coming on in high beam
  • Some cars have computers polling to test loads and these satisfy those computers too.
No matter what brand of LED or even HID you are trying to use, if you have a Toyota or a Suzuki then you do need these and these are all you need.

You need 1 module per light. This listing is for 2 modules. If you have 4 lights you will need a second set.

…hey @Guyute, if you still have the 12v ones I’d be interested…
 
Anyone considering the Tru-Cool LPD47391 trans cooler, go for it! It is a near-perfect fit (had to drill one hole in mounting bracket) for the KZJ78. Be sure to buy the real deal ($149) and not the $69 counterfeits from Ebay or Amazon.

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Wondering how this will fit with aftermarket intercooler kits. There aren't many for this vehicle outside of DIY.
 
Anyone considering the Tru-Cool LPD47391 trans cooler, go for it! It is a near-perfect fit (had to drill one hole in mounting bracket) for the KZJ78. Be sure to buy the real deal ($149) and not the $69 counterfeits from Ebay or Amazon.

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Where did you buy yours from? Can you send a pic of where you hooked it up to the auto trans please?
 
Wondering how this will fit with aftermarket intercooler kits. There aren't many for this vehicle outside of DIY.
Don't know if this one will work on my rig, but waiting back for a response to see if the adaptor plate works at least on my 94' 1KZ-TE. I also have a winch so I have to measure the space, but the adaptor plate is my concern. I'll make it work if the plate works unless there is a better intercooler kit someplace....
 
Now I can create the illusion that I’m a serious “Overlander”. 😁
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** Photo courtesy of Odd Iron Off Road.
 
Dont we all travel over-the-land.....
Overthehill-er....?
 
Now I can create the illusion that I’m a serious “Overlander”. 😁
which is kinda funny really and just prooves the "overlanders" are all about stuff bolted on the vehicle, i mean, if your an overlander your driving from place to place letting your alternator charge batteries for the nights "influencer" posts on social media

all the solar panel really does is let you post to your social media outlets from the comfort of your driveway whilst not "overlanding" at all

:hillbilly:
 

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