What did you do on your 70 series today? (9 Viewers)

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Any one know what this bit is….think vacuum thing .
( in engine bay below servo) . What’s it’s purpose please….?

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Any one know what this bit is….think vacuum thing .
( in engine bay below servo) . What’s it’s purpose please….?

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Vacuum reservoir for your brake booster (and clutch booster if equipped). Your vacuum pump is effective but the reservoir helps ensure that there is ample vacuum volume to meet your emergency and standard traffic braking needs.
 
Drove to Salt Lake and back, made sure to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and the Museum of course. Good to see @cruiseroutfit and @cruiserdan!

Put the Vintage Air setup to the test on the way out and back, over 100 for hours on both ways. I've been chasing a leak for awhile that I finally think I solved, no fault of the components, just my bad crimp job on the lines. Would recommend to anyone without AC (or heat I guess) as a full replacement option, especially if your existing parts aren't in great shape as its the whole core and everything (connects to vents not an under dash one just to be clear).

AC was super cold but really need to invest in better tint and some more insulation! Instead dealt with fuel boiling a TON, crazy tank pressure when fully sealed it, charcoal canister left the building at some point (ty Dan for finding the diagrams!), need to get that figured out. Not totally sure other than getting the venting fixed? Maybe need to add some heat shields, as when I left the cap loose it ran MUCH better but was losing fuel at an alarming rate. I dont plan to drive in that heat too often but still, anyone else figured this out?

Other than that, truck ran beautifully. Oh and full believer in the Scheelman hype now, 24+ hours driving in past week and so comfortable, seriously impressed.

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I've got tank pressure/boiling issues as well. It's been giving me grief to the point I only use my reserve tank now.
Think I'll start a thread with some diagrams and thoughts... see if anyone knows the obvious solution or we can arrive at one together.
 
I've got tank pressure/boiling issues as well. It's been giving me grief to the point I only use my reserve tank now.
Think I'll start a thread with some diagrams and thoughts... see if anyone knows the obvious solution or we can arrive at one together.
There is a one way valve at the end of a ventilation hose from the side of the tank with the filler. Follow it up and it should plug into a rubber grommet on a crossmember of the floor. Inspect the valve and replace if it is stuck or clogged. There should be no PRESSURE in the tank, a bit of vacuum maybe, but not pressure.

The other more permanent option since you reside in one of the more hot areas of the continent would be to install a diesel fuel cooler on the return line to the tank. Most if not all newer diesels are equipped this way. I have not done this mod myself, so not sure what all would be involved, and what cooler to use, etc but it would certainly be doable with a bit of research and planning. :cheers:
 
There is a one way valve at the end of a ventilation hose from the side of the tank with the filler. Follow it up and it should plug into a rubber grommet on a crossmember of the floor. Inspect the valve and replace if it is stuck or clogged. There should be no PRESSURE in the tank, a bit of vacuum maybe, but not pressure.

The other more permanent option since you reside in one of the more hot areas of the continent would be to install a diesel fuel cooler on the return line to the tank. Most if not all newer diesels are equipped this way. I have not done this mod myself, so not sure what all would be involved, and what cooler to use, etc but it would certainly be doable with a bit of research and planning. :cheers:
I've replaced both of those valves... one for each of my tanks. That's not the issue.
Also, I've drilled out my gas caps. I still get boiling/pressure in my main tank... especially aggravated during the hotter months.

I'm going to remove the Catalytic Convertor I had installed... and put a heat shield in. I believe that may be part of my problem.
 
I've replaced both of those valves... one for each of my tanks. That's not the issue.
Also, I've drilled out my gas caps. I still get boiling/pressure in my main tank... especially aggravated during the hotter months.

I'm going to remove the Catalytic Convertor I had installed... and put a heat shield in. I believe that may be part of my problem.
Yes, getting rid of as much heat transfer as possible is a great idea. It might just be that the venting is working, but the heat transfer is too much.

I am still wondering how you are getting pressure building up. It could just be a dual tank thing, but I would not be able to speak to that as I have only one. When you replaced the valves, did you by chance blow into the line and make sure it was clear as well? Very odd... 🤔
 
Vacuum reservoir for your brake booster (and clutch booster if equipped).
Mine has a separate can for the clutch booster.
The one in the photo is for the brake booster and has a switch in it that triggers the brake warning dash light if there is insufficient vacuum.

I added a 3rd vac reservoir to mine when I installed the vac-guzzling 80-series brake booster.
 
It could just be a dual tank thing, but I would not be able to speak to that as I have only one.
Until the thread gets going, I'll just add I'm single tank and struggling so I don't think its related to a dual tank issue.
 
Spotted this at a local dealer here a few days back in San Antonio when I was test driving a LC250. Anyone from this forum? It was sitting at the paint shop area. 70 series sightings are pretty rare in San Antonio.

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Dealer only had three and two were already sold. For me, it was a hard pass. The build quality is there that one would expect of a vehicle made in Japan but otherwise I didn't really care for it.

Just like any new Land Cruiser, it's an acquired taste. When I saw my first 80 Series in early 1990 I thought where the hell are the leaf springs. That being said, I bought one 3 years later and I will never part with it.
 
Injector removal: Any one know if or why one should remove these in a particular order, before I embark on this.

As the vehicle has an unknown past, or service record, and currently has a bit of blue smoke on idle, as well as pulling away from a delayed stop, I thought I’d do injectors first. As it’s easier to do thus and replace whilst engine is in situ.
Get that done, and if it still smokes, it’ll more likely be valves/ guides/ or even glazed bores.
I’ve done a compression test and apart from cylinder 3, the readings are surprisingly good.
Thanks
 

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