What did you do on your 70 series today? (11 Viewers)

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Drove to Salt Lake and back, made sure to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and the Museum of course. Good to see @cruiseroutfit and @cruiserdan!

Put the Vintage Air setup to the test on the way out and back, over 100 for hours on both ways. I've been chasing a leak for awhile that I finally think I solved, no fault of the components, just my bad crimp job on the lines. Would recommend to anyone without AC (or heat I guess) as a full replacement option, especially if your existing parts aren't in great shape as its the whole core and everything (connects to vents not an under dash one just to be clear).

AC was super cold but really need to invest in better tint and some more insulation! Instead dealt with fuel boiling a TON, crazy tank pressure when fully sealed it, charcoal canister left the building at some point (ty Dan for finding the diagrams!), need to get that figured out. Not totally sure other than getting the venting fixed? Maybe need to add some heat shields, as when I left the cap loose it ran MUCH better but was losing fuel at an alarming rate. I dont plan to drive in that heat too often but still, anyone else figured this out?

Other than that, truck ran beautifully. Oh and full believer in the Scheelman hype now, 24+ hours driving in past week and so comfortable, seriously impressed.

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I drove through there in August once on a cross country trip in a 71 Chevy truck that had big exhaust running parallel the metal fuel line next to the frame. Every time I'd pull off the highway at an exit and the wind wasn't blowing buy the fuel in the line would boil and the engine mounted pump wouldn't supply the carb. It would stumble and die. Recrank after 30 seconds to cool and it would run another 20 seconds or so and die again. After refueling and 15 min of shut down for everything to cool I could make it back to the interstate and get up to speed with the wind blowing to cool things. High altitude+high heat =vapor lock. That truck was gravity fed with the tank behind the seat. That night in the hotel parking lot I put a universal electric pump to push the liquid fuel to the carb. Problem solved.
 
Applied a coat of Master Series Silver to rear diff and some other places.
Topped it with some POR-15 that has been laying around too long.

Is there such a thing as a 2" paint roller cover that won't dissolve or fall apart from urethane coatings?
4 inch is too wide for stuff like this.View attachment 3661476
View attachment 3661477
About 7 years ago I bought a $35 electric HVLP spray gun on Amazon to replace an old buzzing pump style "power painter" love it. It sprays paint almost as smooth as a normal HVLP gun. That's what I use for what you are doing. You can thin with naptha aka "camp fuel" if you need to thin.
 
I've got air spray guns but POR-15 sticks best to skin and has toxic fumes so I don't like to spray it.

You can thin with naptha aka "camp fuel" if you need to thin.
Thin POR15 with it?
 
Applied a coat of Master Series Silver to rear diff and some other places.
Topped it with some POR-15 that has been laying around too long.

Is there such a thing as a 2" paint roller cover that won't dissolve or fall apart from urethane coatings?
4 inch is too wide for stuff like this.View attachment 3661476
View attachment 3661477
Looking under the skirts there I see your low clearance ubolt system on the spring packs. Is that custom? I like it. :cheers:
 
Looking under the skirts there I see your low clearance ubolt system on the spring packs. Is that custom? I like it. :cheers:


Been a while but you need a different plate for one side of the 70 series rear vs the 60 so don't just order the 60 kit.
They do hang up a lot less than the stock set up.
 
I got the flips a while back.
4 things fewer to scrape over obstacles.
 
u bolt flip kits are the way
love mine
shoulda been like that from stock
 
Damn mice ……. ☹️
Pulled the glovebox out this morning (looking for a plug on the wiring harness) and was not pleasantly surprised. There were leaves, small sticks, what looked like pieces of torn fabric and even a birds feather.
Their “handy work” completely covered the bottom of a shop vac.
Moral of the story ….. Even in an enclosed garage, critters also like Land Cruisers. 😁
 
Drove to Salt Lake and back, made sure to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and the Museum of course. Good to see @cruiseroutfit and @cruiserdan!

Put the Vintage Air setup to the test on the way out and back, over 100 for hours on both ways. I've been chasing a leak for awhile that I finally think I solved, no fault of the components, just my bad crimp job on the lines. Would recommend to anyone without AC (or heat I guess) as a full replacement option, especially if your existing parts aren't in great shape as its the whole core and everything (connects to vents not an under dash one just to be clear).

AC was super cold but really need to invest in better tint and some more insulation! Instead dealt with fuel boiling a TON, crazy tank pressure when fully sealed it, charcoal canister left the building at some point (ty Dan for finding the diagrams!), need to get that figured out. Not totally sure other than getting the venting fixed? Maybe need to add some heat shields, as when I left the cap loose it ran MUCH better but was losing fuel at an alarming rate. I dont plan to drive in that heat too often but still, anyone else figured this out?

Other than that, truck ran beautifully. Oh and full believer in the Scheelman hype now, 24+ hours driving in past week and so comfortable, seriously impressed.

View attachment 3659559View attachment 3659560View attachment 3659561View attachment 3659562

It was fun bumping into you up the canyon :cool:
 
Damn mice ……. ☹️
Pulled the glovebox out this morning (looking for a plug on the wiring harness) and was not pleasantly surprised. There were leaves, small sticks, what looked like pieces of torn fabric and even a birds feather.
Their “handy work” completely covered the bottom of a shop vac.
Moral of the story ….. Even in an enclosed garage, critters also like Land Cruisers. 😁
A buddy of mine from Texas told me the only way to keep mice out of the ranch truck was to throw mothballs on the interior and open the hood so it's exposed to the elements(not shelter). Our older tundra is a bit chewed up from them.
 
I've got air spray guns but POR-15 sticks best to skin and has toxic fumes so I don't like to spray it.


Thin POR15 with it?
I just read POR15 is "rubberized"... I may be mistaken in suggesting you thin with Naptha. Most petroleum based products can be thinned with Naptha. Water based cannot. I don't know about a "rubberized" product. In the past I undercoated with "solvent based asphalt roof cement" thinned with naptha or mineral spirts sprayed from a garden sprayer. Apologies if I'm wrong on a "rubberized" product such as POR15.
 
Got my bumper and winch installed.

Need some longer wires for the winch and an offset fairlead to finish it off. Otherwise it's looking great.

Parked it next to the 2nd 250 I've found in the wild. The guy got in and drove away and he didn't take too much notice of the 70.

PXL_20240612_215115883.jpg
 
Got my bumper and winch installed.

Need some longer wires for the winch and an offset fairlead to finish it off. Otherwise it's looking great.

Parked it next to the 2nd 250 I've found in the wild. The guy got in and drove away and he didn't take too much notice of the 70.

View attachment 3663996
didnt even look eh....what a doosh
just when a guy needs an 'I identify as a prado' sticker
 
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didnt even look eh....what a doosh
just when a guy needs an 'I identify as a prado' sticker
Well... it WAS parked at the mall. 🤣

The owner probably had no clue that both those vehicles were land cruisers and made by Toyota. They likely bought it because of the hype of a new returning Toyota SUV and "it looked neat" :cheers:
 
When people get mad and speed past your diesel 70 Series and y’all end up at the same red light together.
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Long story.

I heard some side noise from the engine, just to make sure I measured the oil pressure which was within spec. Next, the compression pressures, which were also in the specs.

When I put the spark plugs back in place, cylinder no 4 four plug thread fails. I knew that thread wasn't as good as it should be so I kinda been waiting this happen. Damn. Well, this was great opportunity change bad valve stem seals!
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I fixed the thread with this Recoil kit, which includes pilot nose tap. First I was planning to do drilling and tapping on milling machine but this pilot nose type tap worked great.
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I also grind valves with grinding paste. Not a big job when I already have to take valve springs off. Cylinder head itself was so straight that I didn't machine it. Some minor marks but I don't thinkg those will cause problem.

When I was assembling a camshaft to the cylinder head, one of camshaft bearing cap thread failed. Damn x2. Solution was again Helicoil type thread insert. This was pretty interesting because torque is only 20 Nm. This engine has been opened before, I have my suspicions and who has done that, doesn't own torque wrench.
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After cleaning and cleaning, we was finally putting the head back. When torquing head bolts to final torque, I felt that one is going to strip. Damn x3. Time to open a beer and left garage. Can you imagine that I didn't remember take any pictures at this stage. 🤣

Afterwards I remember noticing that one thread wasn't as thight as others when I cleaned those. But I didn't react to that.
 
I have never seen a pilot nose tap before… thanks for showing that.

How did you determine that the head was straight/flat?
 

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