What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)

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RoverDude said:
I only saw the trans plate for 99+ on their website.
Click to expand...
Would a 99+ not fit your truck?

Kind of silly that we need to get these from Aus. @Nottajeep is trying to put together a group buy from BudBuilt for a transfer case skid:
forum.ih8mud.com

BudBuilt Skid Plate

I contacted Bud and they are willing to look at a group buy for a TC skid plate. A couple of questions: Is anyone around Hudson, NC that could get over there for measurements? How many size variations would be needed for this? Are the frame widths the same for each 70 series truck? Can we get...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I'm hoping to swing by there later in the week for them to get measurements, and hopefully get this moving foreward. I'm also taking a radiator bash plate for them to look at.
 
A little more progress

DEE43495-142F-4A46-828F-20E39F77C45D.jpeg


E7807F1D-18CD-4A53-B7D9-4CBECA58EC77.jpeg
 
svsisu said:
Would a 99+ not fit your truck?

Kind of silly that we need to get these from Aus. @Nottajeep is trying to put together a group buy from BudBuilt for a transfer case skid:
forum.ih8mud.com

BudBuilt Skid Plate

I contacted Bud and they are willing to look at a group buy for a TC skid plate. A couple of questions: Is anyone around Hudson, NC that could get over there for measurements? How many size variations would be needed for this? Are the frame widths the same for each 70 series truck? Can we get...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I'm hoping to swing by there later in the week for them to get measurements, and hopefully get this moving foreward. I'm also taking a radiator bash plate for them to look at.
Click to expand...
There are several different transmission offered in the 7x models and most of them use a different crossmember at a different location . I would start with getting one for the H55 models as these are the most common . It doesn't matter what wheelbase you are on as that should be the same for a 70.71.73.74,75 and probably even the 77 although I have little hands on experience with those
 
JDM Journeys said:
Side exit? Ooooh that looks good! Did you get any more shots? Would love to see from offside... What diameter did you go with?
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Hey-hey!

RH side dump indeed. Have a water tank mounted under the rig that lays to the LHS and tried to not change what the PO had done for my wallet weight sake. It was/is straight 3" pipe all the way back. Muffler dude just cut out a section for the muffler and had to squish where it goes over the frame rail some. Also added a hanger and all new isolator rubbers all around.

Not sure what you mean by 'shots'. Added length?

What pics you after?
 
bj70bc said:
so you bought this
i was thinking about picking this one up, it was just too far away
Click to expand...
Yes- I haven’t driven it much, it definitely had more rust that depicted in the add. Didn’t have any negotiating power, another party was willing to buy it sight unseen. Still feel like it was a good value, starting point for a nice lil 4x4 camper.
It’s nice that factory sheet metal is available

A9F78F4E-8639-4EDF-AC75-E8A28702A06D.jpeg


2A1CF8D2-14F4-458E-A14F-9F04B24BC2C1.jpeg
 
…thankfully I’ve already replaced ALL the rest of the fuel lines, and can get most of the parts

…any idea how to get the broken M6 thread bolt bits out? Just drill’em?

After this no excuse for an air leak short of a bullet hole!
 
LJRay said:
…any idea how to get the broken M6 thread bolt bits out? Just drill’em?
Click to expand...
I just drill them out and retap the threads. If you are careful, patient and somewhat lucky you can reuse the captive nut, otherwise you have to get creative on securement options once you remediate the filler hose and connections.

I would recommend if you drop the tank, take the time to replace the pickup as well. I would also do the fuel sender/float, but that can be accessed when the tank is installed.
 
LJRay said:
...I think I'll be dropping the tank to deal to this...
Click to expand...
Hi.
Did it some time ago.
Here is a joint writeup with all the details:
Thread 'remove fuel tank' remove fuel tank - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/remove-fuel-tank.1169566/

The filler neck is not connected to the fuel lines at all. It may leak, but if you experience air in your lines, it must get in elsewhere.

Dropping the fuel tank is neither required nor actually helpful to replace the filler neck.
It might be a good idea, though,: If the filler neck looks like this, the fuel pickup assembly, located on top of the tank, might look similar.
Those are notorious for rusting and those CAN be a leak in your fuel line.
Removing the tank might need some persuasion. Don't be suprised if it wouldn't move at all after having the brackets removed. It tends to glue itself to the floor.
Good Luck Ralf
 
I only had one key with this truck and it was not a good key, some sort of hand cut generic key that barely worked. It didn't even work in the passenger door, almost didn't work in the driver or ignition when it was cold. I had a locksmith measure the lock with a tool and then reverse engineer the code. Then had the dealership cut a new key from the code and it's smooth as butter now. That was the win for the day.

The loss for the day:

I was swapping out my spare tire, and the last section of the rod crank tool came off in the tube. Now I can't get it out. Funny but also really dumb. Anyone dealt with this before? So far I've tried a telescoping magnet and tape on the end of a rod but neither has enough grabbing force. The tube is at a downward slope which makes it even worse.
 
LJRay said:
…thanks @Rigster and @Felde for your info/suggestions - just ordered the pickup - now for some “quality time” in the garage…
Click to expand...
I did this around a year ago and found that the ff rubber tube was NOLA. I bought a long piece of fuel appropriate hose on Amazon of the right diameter and strategically cut it to echo the OEM bends. It has worked fine since!

If you do drop the tank to do the pickup (that's where mine was getting air from) a pair of ratchet straps is helpful to get it back in place since all your buddies will be "busy" the day you go to put it back. 😉
 
JDM Journeys said:
I did this around a year ago and found that the ff rubber tube was NOLA. I bought a long piece of fuel appropriate hose on Amazon of the right diameter and strategically cut it to echo the OEM bends. It has worked fine since!

If you do drop the tank to do the pickup (that's where mine was getting air from) a pair of ratchet straps is helpful to get it back in place since all your buddies will be "busy" the day you go to put it back. 😉
Click to expand...
Here is the section of my ramblings where I drop mine... There might be something of help?
Post in thread 'OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77' Builds - OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/olbetsy-zx-1991-hzj77.1232170/post-14923850
 
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