jblueridge
SILVER Star
I don’t know if that stuff is a new age upgrade, but it looks like an optical replacement for old school points. That bolt adjusts the timing I’ll bet.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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I'm working my way through the quirkiness of my new-to-me FZJ75 GCC pickup. Figured out why it cold started like crap: there was a short vaccum line not even connected on one side. And the idle seemed to have been set super duper low. Seems to be working better now.
Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.
Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.
The “lifting” process is normally quite easy. (Doesn’t normally require any of that Knights Of The Round Table stuff.)
look underneath and take a picture (s). try pulling back and then sliding to the right. I think that is the wrong knob. that's if you have a split case transfercase
No luck in any direction. The manual says to lift as well.
Are these the pictures you're looking for?
Hmm doesn't look like a split case transfer. Sorry can't help you. Try looking at the linkages and figure out where the lifting motion would come into play. Have someone up in the cab play with the selector lever, while trying to figure out how it should move.
Is that a 1999+ transfer case? I’m a bit fuzzy on 70-series t-case differences throughout the years.
The truck is a '97, so seems unlikely it would have a different tcase.
FZJ75’s do **not** have split cases. They have 80 series style cases. HF family cases.
Anything over roughly 200hp gets the 80 case.
In this case, it’s an HF1A part time xfer.
That clears up a point of confusion I've had for a while, having seen photos of FZJ7x's transfer cases I always thought they looked like 80-series cases but wasn't sure.
Finished up a regear, and added a TJM pro locker to the front. But instead of taking the easy and expensive route, I bought an 8.2” locker on clearance from just differentials, welded, drilled, and counter bored it so it works in my 8” HP 
. Works perfect as was far cheaper than anything else! And now I know the only carrier difference is 10 bolt vs 12 bolt ring!
. Works perfect as was far cheaper than anything else! And now I know the only carrier difference is 10 bolt vs 12 bolt ring!
^^ With enough skillz…. 
Changed a wheel bearing that was getting rather crunchy. The job was far, far easier the second time - I credit this to knowing how to do it, and because I'd been in that side 6 months before, everything was quite easy to break loose.
...and more rust work. My MIG welder is currently unavailable to me, so I succumbed once more and paid a guy to do it. Hopefully this doesn't become habit!
I have no doubt I'll need to get into the left rear before too long. If anyone has done the edge of the wheel arches before, would welcome any advice for a novice panelbeater!
...and more rust work. My MIG welder is currently unavailable to me, so I succumbed once more and paid a guy to do it. Hopefully this doesn't become habit!
I have no doubt I'll need to get into the left rear before too long. If anyone has done the edge of the wheel arches before, would welcome any advice for a novice panelbeater!
When the price is low enough my ideas really start to flow/become desperate^^ With enough skillz….
Hello,
I am late to the party.
Normally, you just depress the clutch pedal, shift to H4 then pull gently. A click tells you that you are in N. Keep the pull and move the lever, gently. Another click confirms you are in L4.
It is safe to say that the PO seldom, if ever, drove in 4WD. The PO did not clean the drive train either.
If the lever is hard to move, then the links need lubrication. Your photos show dirt on them. Brush it away, apply some WD-40 and let it penetrate for a while. Then try again.
Once the lever shifts properly, apply more lubricant on the links.
Hope this helps.
Juan
Last edited:
Started installing new stuff
Why the new doors?
OEM or the new chinese aftermarket ones ?
2fpower
SILVER Star
I am even later to the party... on my VZ pile of bolts, I had to just pull down as hard as possible to pop it in low. Pushed out easy... I was told to not be shy!
OEM- along with mostly new internals
