What did you do on your 70 series today? (28 Viewers)

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Got the Red Rocket 2 years ago today. Put roughly 75,000 kilometers on it since then, not the easiest to daily drive a BJ75 put totally worth it to me. Will own this for a very long time, if not forever, unless I get offered an absurd amount of money. Can't wait to see what the future brings, hasn't really left me stranded yet which is pretty impressive for a 35-year-old car that hasn't been rebuilt/restored. So thankful for this car and the people I've met on mud and in person due to it, this is a pretty great community we have here and I wouldn't be able to keep the Red Rocket running without the help of thousands of internet cruiser heads. :cheers:

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2 videos I made of my adventures this past summer traveling across the US in it with 5 of my buddies



Nice post here. I really enjoyed reading your article in Toyota Trails magazine this weekend and it was cool to see that just after seeing your post here a couple days ago.

Also- fun to see these videos to pair with the article. What an epic trip- great job documenting the adventure and it sounds like Rad-Cooler 9000 was a smart move to keep the truck on the road when the temps went up. MacGyver status unlocked!

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I appreciate everyone's reply I've gotten on this. I put new springs and bushings on two years ago and that did help dramatically with ride. I put a suspension seat in the front as well which I like. I actually like it better than what's in my tundra. Mostly what wears on me is noise squeaks and rattles My rear motor mount rubber seperated I know that needs replacing probably the front too but not sure.......... I am guessing that having the FRP top versus a steel hardtop contributes to noise and rattles due to more body twists movement of the windshield indoors front and rear not sealing as well etc.. I'm guessing the five or six cylinder diesel engines would be much smoother than the 4 cylinder in the b series. I'm also guessing that coil sprung Land cruisers would like we develop less rattles over time... That's really the sort of information and I'm curious about from someone who's ridden and driven more than one model of the 70 series from different years. When I asked was any one of them as good as a Toyota Hilux or surf I meant say a 1995 surf or Hilux not a new model.
Yota Squeak meter
Most to least
40 series
70 series
Hilux
Hilux Surf (4runner)/prado
Land Cruiser

This before bolting crap on
 
Really nice work on your rig. I'm wondering about your "sleeping platform". It appears you have plywood that you can move the seat as far forward as possible and then there is plywood that folds forward for that area. Is the flat area long enough for you to lay down fully with the rear doors closed,?

Thank you! And yes that is correct. There is an extra piece of plywood on a hinge that with the passenger seat pushed fully forward flips over to form the end of the platform. The seatback makes a nice "headboard" of sorts. It works well and I am 6'2". I made a very crude version of this setup when I first bought the truck.

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cross-posting from my own maintenance thread:

anyone have any info on this “diagnosis” box, which sits on the left hand side of my JDM HZJ73, just behind my fuel filter? Can’t seem to find any details on it, other than that it seems to be an On-Board Diagnostics box, used for troubleshooting... I’d like to find a part number if possible.

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Regarding the daily-drivability of 70 series, I think everything that can be said has already been said. Isn't that the whole point of owning a 70 series? Because it drives like from another era? Because when you get in, you feel like you're driving a massive, solid machine?
I am privileged, since I have two "new"/low-mileage rigs. So if I get a squeak, I can still chase it down. ;)
However, one little anecdote: when I was picking up my 76 in Dubai, we drove to get it in a rented Yaris (i.e. a sh*tbox). We got into the 76, my dad was driving at the time, and I asked him: why are you in third gear?!. "No, no, I'm in fifth." :geek: Pretty much sums up the driving experience of a 70 series. 🙃
 
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cross-posting from my own maintenance thread:

anyone have any info on this “diagnosis” box, which sits on the left hand side of my JDM HZJ73, just behind my fuel filter? Can’t seem to find any details on it, other than that it seems to be an On-Board Diagnostics box, used for troubleshooting... I’d like to find a part number if possible.

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It’s a part of the main wiring loom and cannot be purchased separately.
 
I Fixed the Lspv cable open for the rear brakes to work better on my Hzj73.
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I Fixed the Lspv cable open for the rear brakes to work better on my Hzj73.
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So, if I see it right, you attached the 'cable' (actually a leaver) to the fix cross member?!
Well, so you basically deleted the LSPV. It will have no effect that way whatsoever. ***Not recommended.*** It's there for a purpose... .
The lever is supposed to be attached to the axle. The LSPV is supposed to reduce brakeforce in the rear and direct it to the front when the truck sinks into the front suspension on braking. It prevents the rear brakes from locking, which would render the back uncontrollable.
Did you consider this?
 
So, if I see it right, you attached the 'cable' (actually a leaver) to the fix cross member?!
Well, so you basically deleted the LSPV. It will have no effect that way whatsoever. ***Not recommended.*** It's there for a purpose... .
The lever is supposed to be attached to the axle. The LSPV is supposed to reduce brakeforce in the rear and direct it to the front when the truck sinks into the front suspension on braking. It prevents the rear brakes from locking, which would render the back uncontrollable.
Did you consider this?
I replaced front/rear rotors and pads 2.5yrs ago, a month ago I replaced the worn front pads, the rear pads were like new. I think the 73 series has a light rear and with a lift, the axle is even higher, moving the LSPV rod lower and closing the flow to the rear calipers. If I didn’t do this, I’d imagine my rear brake pads would be *new* for the next 10yrs. I’ll keep an eye on the pad wear but braking is way better now! Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind about the rear locking up but it seems like it’s finally working like it should. If front and rear pads wear about the same and braking is improved, I think that’s a win.
 
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I replaced front and rear rotors and pads 2.5yrs ago, a month ago I replaced the worn front pads, the rear pads were like new. I think the 73 series has a light rear and with a lift, the axle is even higher, closing the flow to the rear calipers. I’ll keep an eye on the pad wear but braking feels way better! Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind about the rear locking up but it seems like it’s finally working like it should. If front and rear pads wear about the same and braking is improved, I think that’s a win.

Try a few hard stops with your normal load 'on a closed road under controlled conditions' & check that the back doesn't lock up too early. Usual procedure with a lift is to put in a longer link from the LSPV arm to the diff to correct it's action. LSPV are known to crap out though, they are rebuildable I think.

I have different brakes etc etc so have a manual proportioning valve, it was definitely worth a few test stops to get it tuned in right.

Cheers
Clint
 
Try a few hard stops with your normal load 'on a closed road under controlled conditions' & check that the back doesn't lock up too early. Usual procedure with a lift is to put in a longer link from the LSPV arm to the diff to correct it's action. LSPV are known to crap out though, they are rebuildable I think.

I have different brakes etc etc so have a manual proportioning valve, it was definitely worth a few test stops to get it tuned in right.

Cheers
Clint
Thanks for the advice, I just tested it and the rears definitely lock up under hard stops. I don’t think too early but I’ll adjust and bring it down some. The axle mount is way too low though.
 
I replaced front/rear rotors and pads 2.5yrs ago, a month ago I replaced the worn front pads, the rear pads were like new. I think the 73 series has a light rear and with a lift, the axle is even higher, moving the LSPV rod lower and closing the flow to the rear calipers. If I didn’t do this, I’d imagine my rear brake pads would be *new* for the next 10yrs. I’ll keep an eye on the pad wear but braking is way better now! Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind about the rear locking up but it seems like it’s finally working like it should. If front and rear pads wear about the same and braking is improved, I think that’s a win.

Thanks for the advice, I just tested it and the rears definitely lock up under hard stops. I don’t think too early but I’ll adjust and bring it down some. The axle mount is way too low though.

Hi
So, I understand your truck is lifted. That's the issue. The mounting point for the LSPV leaver needs to be raised respectively and the LSPV needs to be adjusted. Often that’s not considered when doing a lift. I had to learn this the hard way on my BJ73, too.
@clintnz is right. Let me tell how I did it:

I put some square tubing under the mounting pin on the axle.
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One can also extend the pivot bold thread respectively by welding a stud to it.
Clean the LSPV with some brake cleaner. Under the rubber boot is a little pin, the rod rests on: Make sure it moves. Travel is a few mm only.
Load the truck with normal load (fuel, driver, maybe permanent installations like drawers, equipment you always carry....)
Attach the leaver rod to the axle. Pre-adjust it in a way the rod only slightly touches the pin in the LSPV. You can feel it touching when slightly moving the rod. Preset the adjustment pivot bold on the axle so it still allows about 3/4 of thread to move the rod further up, 1/4 of thread to move it down. If this is not possible, you need to move the mounting point up further.
Go to a safe invironment and do hard test stops. Have an observer monitor the axles locking behavior from the side. Start on solid ground (tarmac).
At first, the rear will not break properly as the LSPV is basically off, still: Adjust the LSPV rod upwards using the adjuster bold on the axle. Go in small increments (2 turns on the nut each). You will notice the rear brake improving. The truck will sink in less on the front. Get it to the point you manage the brakes to lock on hard emergency stops. ** The front must lock before the rear ** (Observer). If the rear locks before the front does, lower the rod a bit.
Switch to loose ground / gravel and repeat. The rear brake will lock earlier now. Make sure the rear doesn't lock before the front, still. Maybe you need to lower the LSPV rod a slight bit again to achieve that on gravel.
I'm glad I could make you aware and advice. Safe travels!
Ralf
 
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