jblueridge
SILVER Star
Yes. Listen to Ralf.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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That's exactly what I did Felde, i lifted the lspv rod with a block the same amount as the lift, works great.
Thanks guys, I adjusted it down with a longer bolt and dialed it in better (brakes are nice and even, rear isn’t locking hard). I will look into placing it back on the axle later since I cut the rod. I can weld it back, no time today.
Despite the supply chain issues I was able to source some new sneakers for the ole pickup. As it turns out my tire store is also the tire store of choice for Andy and Barney. 
I might need to get a set for my ute this summer too.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Finished the frankenstein welding/patch job on the inner fender or wheel well.
Used brush and mini foam roller to apply epoxy primer. Primed the entire upper side.
Used brush and mini foam roller to apply epoxy primer. Primed the entire upper side.
Managed to get the floor painted. Next step sound deadening. Kilmat 50mil with Noico red on top.
First coat of Master Series AG111
After the second coat. The weld patches look pretty good.
First coat of Master Series AG111
After the second coat. The weld patches look pretty good.
I should have made a build thread for the Troopy but oh well! I always hate when the rubber piece between the upper and lower fender gets painted over. The coolest thing about the 70 series is those lines at the nose of the car and their alignments with the door/body, in my opinion. So after two years of hating the way my painted over trim looked, I spent a few hours replacing it.
For those that would like to do the same, the easiest way is to remove the inner fender wheel well bolts, leaving the body mount attachment alone (unless you want to make it even easier to access), then get like 4-6 socket extenders and back the bolts off that pinch the trim piece no more than three turns.
That's enough to remove the old piece and insert the new one without unthreading the whole bolt. Trust me, those are a PAIN to re-insert into the clip. The passenger side took longer since the battery tray is mounted to it but all in it only took 2.5 hours and a full bowl of weed.
For those that would like to do the same, the easiest way is to remove the inner fender wheel well bolts, leaving the body mount attachment alone (unless you want to make it even easier to access), then get like 4-6 socket extenders and back the bolts off that pinch the trim piece no more than three turns.
That's enough to remove the old piece and insert the new one without unthreading the whole bolt. Trust me, those are a PAIN to re-insert into the clip. The passenger side took longer since the battery tray is mounted to it but all in it only took 2.5 hours and a full bowl of weed.
I'm going to assume Sativa,,,, cause of it took 2.5 hrs on Indica that would only equate to a 10 minute job
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Got the inner wheel well panel painted. I used Krylon matte gray as topcoat. Paint got dinged when I reinstalled the panel.
Anyone recognize the connectors in the first pic? I guess one is for headlight washer pump.
Used POR15 on some rusty brackets. That stuff does work on rusty stuff.
Anyone recognize the connectors in the first pic? I guess one is for headlight washer pump.
Used POR15 on some rusty brackets. That stuff does work on rusty stuff.
I confirm the source of my excess engine vibration today. Rubber mount on back of transmission to crossmember is separated. This would also explain the occasional fan blade colliding with fan shroud during body twisting at windrock. I bought a pair of inexpensive fluid filled motor mounts to try to replace the rubber on this one but they are 2 in too thick.......... Does anyone know of a place that has one of these in US stock? Kind of want to do The relic run next week but don't want to do it with a separated mount and there's not enough time to get one from partsouq
Random thought ... With your transmission mount visibly torn through and your fan blades occasionally colliding with your shroud, have you verified the integrity/condition of your motor mounts?
It looks like SOR has the mounts in stock
I'm going to look at Spector in a few minutes, but I may continue on with a fab/mod to the more modern fluid filled mounts If I have the material on hand to do it without cutting up any of the original. If I do and it is dramatically better I will post.
You are right about the front mounts and I have thought about that. Last spring I had a really hard bottoming out on a rock in uwharrie. It smashed/bent a weak skidplate upward against the tcase. Lot of increased vibration after which I got used to before removing and replacing the skidplate that was contacting the bottom of the Tcase which reduced the noise after I became accustomed to it so didn't sense it being so worse than before. At windrock I had some unusual noises from the drivetrain twisting around..............The engine mounts may have/are tweaked a bit as well, but I have no doubt that they have not had the same force/shock to them as my rear mount. I'll check them as well.......................I've driven a diesel hilux with a broken motor mount from a wreck and a Jetta TDI with a broken motor mount and they were both worse because they had metal on metal on the engine block. We'll see. Perhaps I can get the rear done and If I still have issues I'll just bypass the big rock ledge on the front side of Daniel trail on the relic run.
XJ13 is a miracle strain! Little heady but man, you can work like a crack elf.
Catching up on this thread, re: the drivability of a 70 series. Man, I will say this, my 75 is way more quiet/comfortable/predictable than my HDJ80 on 35" ever was.
Key details:
-Scheel-Mann seats (dowh $$$$ but worth it)
-3/8" mass loaded vinyl from the firewall to the barn doors.
-Replaced ALL window rubber
-FIlled stud wall with Havelock wool insulation
-Bell-shaped pinch weld trim around the door openings.
-Replaced the s*** OE Toyota sliding windows with Explore Glazing gullwings and sliders
-The new OME leafs are really nice.
-and the biggest improvement - the R2.8
I drive this thing on 10+ hour days, straight through, only stopping for fuel all the time. I'd much rather be on a leaf-sprung 70 than a coil 80 any day. If I want to go faster and be more comfy, the GX470 is a great road tripper too. Just gets s*** fuel economy.
Just my 2 cents.
Key details:
-Scheel-Mann seats (dowh $$$$ but worth it)
-3/8" mass loaded vinyl from the firewall to the barn doors.
-Replaced ALL window rubber
-FIlled stud wall with Havelock wool insulation
-Bell-shaped pinch weld trim around the door openings.
-Replaced the s*** OE Toyota sliding windows with Explore Glazing gullwings and sliders
-The new OME leafs are really nice.
-and the biggest improvement - the R2.8
I drive this thing on 10+ hour days, straight through, only stopping for fuel all the time. I'd much rather be on a leaf-sprung 70 than a coil 80 any day. If I want to go faster and be more comfy, the GX470 is a great road tripper too. Just gets s*** fuel economy.
Just my 2 cents.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Catching up on this thread, re: the drivability of a 70 series. Man, I will say this, my 75 is way more quiet/comfortable/predictable than my HDJ80 on 35" ever was.
Key details:
-Scheel-Mann seats (dowh $$$$ but worth it)
-3/8" mass loaded vinyl from the firewall to the barn doors.
-Replaced ALL window rubber
-FIlled stud wall with Havelock wool insulation
-Bell-shaped pinch weld trim around the door openings.
-Replaced the s*** OE Toyota sliding windows with Explore Glazing gullwings and sliders
-The new OME leafs are really nice.
-and the biggest improvement - the R2.8
I drive this thing on 10+ hour days, straight through, only stopping for fuel all the time. I'd much rather be on a leaf-sprung 70 than a coil 80 any day. If I want to go faster and be more comfy, the GX470 is a great road tripper too. Just gets s*** fuel economy.
Just my 2 cents.
Enjoy that 70 series
avoid this on those fancy Scheel-Mann
pretty much haha
I think replacing my rear motor mount is going to help dramatically. I did choose noisy tires which is on me, but they're smooth if theres no mud stuck to the rims. I really believe that a steel top 70 series would be quieter more solid than my FRP top. If I can make the relic run maybe someone can give me a ride down the road in a steel top 7x.Catching up on this thread, re: the drivability of a 70 series. Man, I will say this, my 75 is way more quiet/comfortable/predictable than my HDJ80 on 35" ever was.
Key details:
-Scheel-Mann seats (dowh $$$$ but worth it)
-3/8" mass loaded vinyl from the firewall to the barn doors.
-Replaced ALL window rubber
-FIlled stud wall with Havelock wool insulation
-Bell-shaped pinch weld trim around the door openings.
-Replaced the s*** OE Toyota sliding windows with Explore Glazing gullwings and sliders
-The new OME leafs are really nice.
-and the biggest improvement - the R2.8
I drive this thing on 10+ hour days, straight through, only stopping for fuel all the time. I'd much rather be on a leaf-sprung 70 than a coil 80 any day. If I want to go faster and be more comfy, the GX470 is a great road tripper too. Just gets s*** fuel economy.
Just my 2 cents.
I should order some new door weather stripping.
On your post what does this mean?: "Bell-shaped pinch weld trim around the door opening"
