During the Summer months I would see one of these flying up and down the Rhine near Mainz. I assumed one could could purchase a ride although I never found the airport where the flight originated.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (10 Viewers)
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jblueridge
SILVER Star
I’ve only seen the one on display at the Air and Space Museum outside Wash DC.
Must have been a while ago.
This one is a former Lufthansa aircraft, which was on display at Duesseldorf Airport for many years, before it was eventually restored to airworthiness.
Other than this there is a commercial company JU-AIR Oldtimerflüge - https://www.ju-air.ch/ in Switzerland, which has the biggest fleet of airworthy JU52s worldwide.
They used to travel the airports in Europe (in Germany like Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Dresden, Berlin) and offered scenic flights and joined airshow.
They suffered however a fatal loss of an aircraft in August 2018, in which all 20 crew and passengers were killed. This caused all flying JUs to be grounded for investigation. All aircrafts had to undergo substantial maintenance checks. As a result, all of them required more or less intense restorations, which are time consuming due to lack of expert craftsmen and funds (e.g one of the Swizz aircrafts needed all new wings to be manufactured (restoring the old ones would have been even more expensive), and this one needs a new floor (for which these events are actually raising funds)). They are expected to be back in the air in 2023.
Very cool. We lived in Haltern in the early 1990s. I never knew that museum was there.
In the electrical section at Lowes with the conduit there is some material called uni-strut that you can purchase in 2 different thickness and in 10 ft sections. I have 2 pieces of that cut to the length of the rack. 2X Holes drilled through the top in the back, and 2 in the front that also go through the factory metal body panel that goes over your head where the dome light is. 1/2 nuts and bolts with fender washers and heavy thick rubber washers and copious amounts of silicone RTV the full length of the Unistrut to bond/bed it to the top and spread out the load so no vibrations/squeaks etc..(If you don't bed it in RTV it will make noise as the top slaps up on it when you hit bumps). When you bed it you barely tighten it down so you don't squeeze out all the RTV, let it sit overnight and then tighten it down. The roof rack is secured to the uni-strut by standard conduit clamps that are made to work with uni-strut. The Uni-strut also significantly reinforces the rack and spreads the load accross the entire length of the roof. If you intend to have limb risers you need to use the thicker uni strut.............2 years now no leaks, no breaks, no problems. I also really don't care what the paint on the top of my top looks like, some people do.
Found a rare wooden bridge down this dirt road to check out. It protested a wee bit having 2 Land Cruisers on it at one time. 
BJ73 got a needed bath today and a go around with the grease gun............On the front knuckles there are 2Xpipe thread fill plugs that you can remove and put a grease gun in and fill the front knuckles with grease to keep the birfeild joints etc. lubed. 2 years ago when I did the lockers I was in the front end and noticed there was plenty of good clean grease and all was well. Today was the first time pulling those plugs to put in/fill them up with good new grease. Do you fill these things until the grease squirts back out? I put about 100 pumps of the gun on both ends and it never started to squirt out. 1.5 tubes of grease between the 2 ends. Greased up the front drive shaft slider that is a bit loose and should probably be replaced, but it still works and doesn't make noise so on it runs..Noticed it only took about 8 pumps before the grease started coming out the front center near the U joint. I"m guessing the seal there is deteriorated....Keep using it till it makes noise wobbling in 4wd I guess, then get a new shaft/slider.....Sure nothing is too critical, just trying to keep things running along well as possible.
I have always heard to fill them about 2/3 full which would take about 1.5 tubes per side. Of course that's from dry. Just poke a zip tie in there and see if it's about 2/3rd or 3/4 full and call it a day. You don't want to over grease the drive shaft sliders. If the seal it too tight it can cause binding. I don't think it's a big deal that some grease slipped by the seal. At least it's better than binding the shaft. My rule of thumb is 2 or 3 pumps only.
I was on my round with the grease gun on Tuesday...
My rear shaft shows grease on the sliding piece, so I always grease it only lightly (2 pumps) to prevent binding. Just like WarDamnEagel suggested..
But my front shaft doesn't show much grease on the slider. It's rather dry. I always give it like 3 pumps, but never saw it coming out anywhere. But I don't dare to put more.
How can I know I have sufficient grease in it / where is the borderline to overgreasing it?
Wouldn't such a sealed hole actually make sense, i.e. popping the seal and allow excess grease to be pushed out in case the sliding piece hits it?
Regarding knuckles:
I also only knew the suggestion WarDamnEagel cited. 2/3 full, measure with a zip tie. I also look at the knuckle balls: As long there is grease coming to them like more than half way up, I call it OK. I guess, once the level will be low, the upper part of the knuckle ball won't show any greasing any more. Time for action then.
I however wonder on the wheel bearings. How to check on and grease those? Pulling the hubs all apart to get into it is quite a job.
(There is just one type of stupid questions: The ones not ask..)
My rear shaft shows grease on the sliding piece, so I always grease it only lightly (2 pumps) to prevent binding. Just like WarDamnEagel suggested..
But my front shaft doesn't show much grease on the slider. It's rather dry. I always give it like 3 pumps, but never saw it coming out anywhere. But I don't dare to put more.
How can I know I have sufficient grease in it / where is the borderline to overgreasing it?
That's new to me. I always thought the shaft tube would be sealed, which would be one of the reasons why putting too much grease would bind the shaft as the sliding piece would hit the grease like in a hydraulic cylinder. I never saw a shaft with the ujoins out, though.
Wouldn't such a sealed hole actually make sense, i.e. popping the seal and allow excess grease to be pushed out in case the sliding piece hits it?
Regarding knuckles:
I also only knew the suggestion WarDamnEagel cited. 2/3 full, measure with a zip tie. I also look at the knuckle balls: As long there is grease coming to them like more than half way up, I call it OK. I guess, once the level will be low, the upper part of the knuckle ball won't show any greasing any more. Time for action then.
I however wonder on the wheel bearings. How to check on and grease those? Pulling the hubs all apart to get into it is quite a job.
(There is just one type of stupid questions: The ones not ask..)
Testing the upgrades to the J70, in wet sand, it came with a rear elocker, but for improvement I added a front eaton type so I replaced the switch (RR), with the one from J80 that includes FR, it looks better I think, day and night .....
There was a short circuit in the wiring. Now i must dismantle entire dashboard to locate where wire burn)
2fpower
SILVER Star
@Tractorist78 That looks like an 80 series. If it is, watch the wires at the corners by the footwell, at the b pillar going up, and the wires going out to the power antenna.
That’s a KZJ78 dash, they’re like that from ‘93-‘95.
This is Prado 78 with 1kz. I roughly determined the place of the short circuit, it is somewhere in the central part of the dashboard.
Also, i want to remove the alarm system.
Took the Cruiser out a bit. Just around the corner...
Höhenhaus Castle.
Höhenhaus Castle.
I think this style of dash was only available in Japan (jdm). I've seen post 93' kzj7# for sale in europe and they had the older style dash.
Went for a drive
Got some new rubber for the the DH bike and Troopy.
ARB rear bumper.
Bought an ARB front bumper also but didn’t realize it had to be cut to fit. The ARB fit my sons Troopy w/o mods and his Dobinsons bumper fit the Prado w/ no major issues.
Bought an ARB front bumper also but didn’t realize it had to be cut to fit. The ARB fit my sons Troopy w/o mods and his Dobinsons bumper fit the Prado w/ no major issues.
