What did you do on your 70 series today? (41 Viewers)

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Finally started the interior project on the Troopy. Ripped everything out, found zero cancer rust, and only some surface oxidation in the cargo area. Sanded it all down with 220, cleaned it off, decreased it, put on Coroseal to convert it, scuffed it up with more 220, cleaned it, and then got through the first can of Master Series as it was getting dark. Unfortunately, there's Dynamat under the driver and passenger footwell, so I have to remove that to Master Series the entire floor.

Our plan is to redo the seals on the slider windows and while I'm doing that, I'll mask off the interior and respray the cargo walls since they're pretty banged up. After that's done, I'm running mass loaded vinyl throughout the flooring, wool insulation in the body panels we're not going to use for storage, and then putting in new OEM mats. It's going to make a huge difference.

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That Master Series is nice to work with, isn't it? We get great coverage with it. Are you going to do 2 coats?
 
That Master Series is nice to work with, isn't it? We get great coverage with it. Are you going to do 2 coats?

Yeah! It's been a much nicer experience compared to using POR15. I did two nice coats. Going to give it 48 hours to cure before spraying some of the interior walls with some OEM single stage paint. Then I'm putting in mass loaded vinyl down, 1/2" birch, and a new OEM mat. It already looks way better. I saw you used the MS stuff on one of your posts and decided to give it a go, so thanks!
 
Yeah! It's been a much nicer experience compared to using POR15. I did two nice coats. Going to give it 48 hours to cure before spraying some of the interior walls with some OEM single stage paint. Then I'm putting in mass loaded vinyl down, 1/2" birch, and a new OEM mat. It already looks way better. I saw you used the MS stuff on one of your posts and decided to give it a go, so thanks!
Really easy stuff to use.....WAY easier than POR15. We use the Master Series on holes we drill or exposed metal if we cut something. Pretty interesting stuff. We've done a few floor boards that had pinholes in them.....you can mix in a little bit of fiberglass cloth and it will fill them in. Neat stuff.

I would imagine with MLV on the floor with wood on top it will be SUPER quiet. Going to be a neat setup.
 
Really easy stuff to use.....WAY easier than POR15. We use the Master Series on holes we drill or exposed metal if we cut something. Pretty interesting stuff. We've done a few floor boards that had pinholes in them.....you can mix in a little bit of fiberglass cloth and it will fill them in. Neat stuff.

I would imagine with MLV on the floor with wood on top it will be SUPER quiet. Going to be a neat setup.

Luckily, the floor didn't have any pinholes, or that was going to be my plan. I ended up coating it quite thick alongside the pinchweld in the pan at the front doors in hopes any water wouldn't find its way into metal. Going to spray the various cavities with Fluid Film for some extra piece of mind and coat the stud wall area with it too. I'm glad we live in a place that averages 0% humidity!
 
Luckily, the floor didn't have any pinholes, or that was going to be my plan. I ended up coating it quite thick alongside the pinchweld in the pan at the front doors in hopes any water wouldn't find its way into metal. Going to spray the various cavities with Fluid Film for some extra piece of mind and coat the stud wall area with it too. I'm glad we live in a place that averages 0% humidity!

I think once that Master Series has bonded to the metal it will be good for the rest of eternity. The metal content is pretty crazy in that stuff. I posted it in my build thread but I seem to recall that Master Series was the original POR15......but the automotive world wanted black coatings so they changed the formula and that altered it where it wasn't quite the same. I think the guy who sells it was telling me they use it on bridge repairs. Something like that.
 
I think once that Master Series has bonded to the metal it will be good for the rest of eternity. The metal content is pretty crazy in that stuff. I posted it in my build thread but I seem to recall that Master Series was the original POR15......but the automotive world wanted black coatings so they changed the formula and that altered it where it wasn't quite the same. I think the guy who sells it was telling me they use it on bridge repairs. Something like that.
Yeah, it's true about the POR15/MS line. My friend works with massive mills and they coat them in it when they come to their shop. He said putting it in a car's pan would be overkill, but smart.
 
I tried to drive over another log... couldn't hack it

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did they fit without any issues? I still need to source something like that.
They fit perfectly in terms of the mounting to the frame using existing threaded points. Took less than 20mins to install.
However, I have the OME leaf springs with OME greaseable shackles and I am concerned about shackle nut/bolt end clearance under suspension compression & elongation of the leaf pack (when the shackle comes forward) There appears to be about 1-1.25" of clear travel before it might contact, but I have no frame of reference for how much the front shackle will rotate forward under axle travel.
I guess I'll know when it happens, !!KUUNG!! (in the 'after pic, you can kind of see how they line up..)

These were the only rated recovery point option I could find for the FJ75 in my search. Fully certified by the OZ equivalent of DOT @ 5000KG each (!), they rightly require the use of an equalizing bridle {Recovery Tow Points PAIR - Toyota 75 Series Landcruiser - https://www.the4wdshed.com/recovery-tow-points-pair-toyota-75-series-landcruiser-roadsafe4wd} One other thing to know is that the attachment opening is square-edged, so they're not for the soft shackle club. Other options I found (not cert) were Thorburns & Sons (OZ) and a really cool, but still not rated :( one from Odd Iron Offroad that will fit elegantly into the front of the ARB bullbar openings. If these knock my shackles, I'll have to switch to the Odd Iron, and sell these to someone with the stock shackles ;)
 
Thanks for the feedback. I have also been thinking of the odd iron off-road one. Right now I have a unknown type of bumper and also have a arb. The arb is set up for a winch so I might be switching to it, though I think I prefer the one that is on now.
I've got them on an ARB bumper with a 12k Come Up and they work perfectly... Flexed the truck out til the axles hit the bump stops and they were good as.

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Over the past four days, I ripped everything out of the back of the Troopy so I could coat the floor of the tub and footwell with Master Series. While I was in there, I took the doors and walls apart and resprayed them with a single-stage Toyota OEM 033 paint. It's not pro by any means but looks way better. The interior on this one was beaten up!

I covered all the flooring from the firewall back to the rear doors with mass loaded vinyl (3/8" PRO) which is 1.25 lb per sq foot and put the OEM mats back in. Last step was filling the stud walls with Havelock wool insulation from the bottom to under the windows before putting the plastic cards back on.

The 12HT is not a quiet engine but man, what a difference this has made in the truck. The MLV worked way better than the Dynamat that was in it (gotdamn that stuff is a nightmare to remove!). The last step is to cut MLV and spray adhesive it to the wheel wells and of course, 1/2" birch ply under the vinyl mat and 80/20 cabinets...

The rear cargo mat and wheel arch covers are from: LAND CRUISER 75 SERIES TROOPIE VINYL KIT - https://trufitauto.com.au/product/land-cruiser-75-series-troopie-vinyl-kit

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Thanks for the feedback. I have also been thinking of the odd iron off-road one. Right now I have a unknown type of bumper and also have a arb. The arb is set up for a winch so I might be switching to it, though I think I prefer the one that is on now.
As you mentioned above, Odd Iron’s recovery points are designed to work with an ARB brushbar as well as a highlift jack.
** The photo was courtesy of the Grand Poobah himself (Woody) 😊
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Time for some new rear brake pads, & while my discs weren't all that worn, replacements were extremely cheap at Repco so did those too.

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The new discs were mostly to see if I could improve the handbrake, previously one side especially had an out of round handbrake drum which made fine adjustment impossible. The handbrake does now work a bit better, still not the greatest though.

Cheers
Clint
 
As you mentioned above, Odd Iron’s recovery points are designed to work with an ARB brushbar as well as a highlift jack.
** The photo was courtesy of the Grand Poobah himself (Woody) 😊
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Those things look Soooooo Beefy. Well if I go bending up the ones I have, I'll be replacing them with Sir Woody's elegant, and domestic creation!
 

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