How do you like them?
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How do you like them?
Cool truck! Mine's almost the same colour, and started in similar condition.
Looks nice! I have parts and plans, just need some time to build it.Cool truck! Mine's almost the same colour, and started in similar condition.
View attachment 3656229
Very nice! I will be doing the same when I install my new suspension. How did you deal with the exhaust on the right side when you installed your sliders?Moved the axle forward an inch today. Now there’s tons of room for fun activities like reinstalling my mudflaps. View attachment 3656678
Great, thanks for the pic!
Great, thanks for the pic!
I did something similar. After a couple years or so your exhaust will get louder and smoke smell in the truck because that flex pipe has rusted. I've replaced mine twice now.
The sliders on my passenger side were fitted with arched support outriggers to accommodate for the resonator and muffler, however I do need to enlarge the arches to allow for the exhaust system to be supported by the rubber hangers without touching the slider outriggers.Great, thanks for the pic!
Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?I did something similar. After a couple years or so your exhaust will get louder and smoke smell in the truck because that flex pipe has rusted. I've replaced mine twice now.
Do you really mean 'inside', or 'on the inner side'.Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?
Yes, inner side.Do you really mean 'inside', or 'on the inner side'.
Really inside is imho rather not possible: How would you enter into the frame rail without cutting into it and weaken its structural integrity? How would you get any tubing into the frame rail? It has brackets stuff welded in, also the cross members stick in it ...
I have a BJ73. I thought about doing that, but the pipe would interfere with the wire and plug going into the tranny I think(for backup light). I could have done away with that and it would be OK just no automatic backup lights. or perhaps cut the big plastic plug and come up with a low profile connection using individual wire conectors and then maybe a curved piece of 1/2" soft copper tube as a heat shield and to hold the wire up/out of the way/off the exhaust. Having fuel lines in close proximity to the exhaust can be problematic especially if they are rubber and your vehicle is gasoline fueled. Gasoline vehicle without in tank fuel pump and fuel lines too close to hot exhaust is the recipe for vapor lock. Perhaps you could wrap the exhaust with some insulating header wrap at that point and it would probably be OK. ...............I lucked into about 6 x6' pieces of flex so I just used it because I had it.....................I have very strong, but low profile rock sliders I made that are welded to the frame with bracing at angles for triangulization effect. When it comes time to do major rust repair I'm going to predrill some 2" X 3/16" bar stock at uniform interval then cut and weld it to my bracing so the bolt holes are exposed with 4 holes in each brace. I will then cut them with a sawzall with 2 holes either side of the cut. later to reinstall I will bolt back on by sistering another plate against those I cut. ..Another option to pursue is to make your passenger side slider a 2 piece slider with only the front part bolt on for exhaust fitment.........If good function looks good in your eyes then it will look good to you and those who know. If you have sliders and all just for looks and not function then it doesn't matter if they are strong(welded to the frame), weak bolt on, or oversize (to be strong)bolt on.Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?
They would need to be functional for my purposes. It looks like I could route the exhaust to the inside of the frame rails if I converted my vacuum shift transfer case to manual. But then I would need to deal with the downpipe from the exhaust header, I guess have one custom-made? Just curious if anyone has done that themselvesI have a BJ73. I thought about doing that, but the pipe would interfere with the wire and plug going into the tranny I think(for backup light). I could have done away with that and it would be OK just no automatic backup lights. or perhaps cut the big plastic plug and come up with a low profile connection using individual wire conectors and then maybe a curved piece of 1/2" soft copper tube as a heat shield and to hold the wire up/out of the way/off the exhaust. Having fuel lines in close proximity to the exhaust can be problematic especially if they are rubber and your vehicle is gasoline fueled. Gasoline vehicle without in tank fuel pump and fuel lines too close to hot exhaust is the recipe for vapor lock. Perhaps you could wrap the exhaust with some insulating header wrap at that point and it would probably be OK. ...............I lucked into about 6 x6' pieces of flex so I just used it because I had it.....................I have very strong, but low profile rock sliders I made that are welded to the frame with bracing at angles for triangulization effect. When it comes time to do major rust repair I'm going to predrill some 2" X 3/16" bar stock at uniform interval then cut and weld it to my bracing so the bolt holes are exposed with 4 holes in each brace. I will then cut them with a sawzall with 2 holes either side of the cut. later to reinstall I will bolt back on by sistering another plate against those I cut. ..Another option to pursue is to make your passenger side slider a 2 piece slider with only the front part bolt on for exhaust fitment.........If good function looks good in your eyes then it will look good to you and those who know. If you have sliders and all just for looks and not function then it doesn't matter if they are strong(welded to the frame), weak bolt on, or oversize (to be strong)bolt on.
Heat will be building up around your trans and tcase and probably transfer in to the cab more . I have done it in the past with 7x models that where offroad only . There isn’t much space thereThey would need to be functional for my purposes. It looks like I could route the exhaust to the inside of the frame rails if I converted my vacuum shift transfer case to manual. But then I would need to deal with the downpipe from the exhaust header, I guess have one custom-made? Just curious if anyone has done that themselves
Makes sense. Thanks for your input. Looks like it'll be some sot of 'pass through ' slider mountHeat will be building up around your trans and tcase and probably transfer in to the cab more . I have done it in the past with 7x models that where offroad only . There isn’t much space there