What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Cruiser already had the suspension seat bases so I fabbed up some brackets to bolt the seats to them . There are some treads here on Mud about adding suspension seat base in your non suspension seat cruiser
Hello,
Steam cleaning is one option.
I use a brush soaked in a mix of water-soluble engine degreaser and water. I let it soak and then remove it with a water-wet brush. As mentioned above, I stay away from electric/electronic components.
It is slow, sometimes time-consuming, but the result is worth it.
A piece of cloth soaked in WD-40 or a similar solvent works well to clean engine bay electrics/electronics. A WD-40 spray on the alternator, every now and then, keeps it clean, but that is just me.
Juan
Sounds like a tranquil Sunday evening summer-and-beer job. Will treat it that way once winter gives way.
Cheers Ralf
Ok... tomorrow's job is to fit the sump.... but I'm not 100% on the set up of the sealant on the sump based on the FSM:
The bit I'm unsure on is the B line in the top figure; is that running all along the inside of the sump (I can see the A line follows the grooves), but it would be good to suss out the B line.
Thanks!
The bit I'm unsure on is the B line in the top figure; is that running all along the inside of the sump (I can see the A line follows the grooves), but it would be good to suss out the B line.
Thanks!
As you identified, typical A and B are section cuts through the oil pan. They are attempting to illustrate that between bolts, the sealant is applied down the center in the dimple; while at the bolts, the sealant should be applied inward relative to the bolt.
When you have the entire ribbon of sealant applied to the flange on the oil pan, it should create barrier (seal) so no oil leaks out along the flange or weeps out through the bolt holes.
I do not know if it is correct to do, but I take an added step before installation.
After I have applied the ribbon of sealant as defined in the FSM, I apply short runs of sealant on the outward side of the bolts. My objective is to provide sealant around every bolt hole. This should be over kill relative to function with an increase to the amount of sealant that is pushed out as the bolts are tightened.
I do the same. At worst, you are wasting a bit of sealant, but for the peace of mind, I do not mind.
In most cases, by the time you need the sealant again, you are buying a new tube anyways because the old stuff got too hard and dried out.
When sealing with silicone RTV it is best to 1. Let is setup for quite a while before you tighten snug and then a while longer before you torque down. 2. Don't use so much RTV that chunks of RTV get squeezed into the engine to break off and clog important oil and water pathways.
Thanks guys - I might do it tomorrow rather than this evening, as I'm not 100% with it today.
Although it’s highly unlikely that we’ll ever see either the V8 or the 2.8 diesel, it’s fun to watch the YouTube guys discuss them. 
FJBen
SILVER Star
Washed her.
Did a clean of all the bolts, rinsed and wiped everything down with metho and then did the sealant bead. Fitted up with the nuts and bolts finger tight.
Now waiting the hour or so before I torque it all down (as the instructions said) and we're a step closer to getting it in. Hoping for next weekend... This weekend is tied up with a Sydney trip to look at another car to replace the Commodore ute with (2010, so too young to offer to the Canadians!).
Sprung a small lower seam leak in the 77's aluminum radiator. Probably because that old "Aluminum Radiators" thread came back up on the forum. Ha. Thanks! Had it tested and the intercooler cleaned out while waiting on parts for my 1HZ rebuild several months ago. So I pulled it over the weekend for the same shop to look into. Sucks. It's a PITA to pull with the intercooler up in my way and need to get more miles on that new engine. Want to do a couple oil changes before a trip in May.
Bummed. So while it was draining that pristine Toyota red I took some small wins on the interior. Swapped out a burnt bulb, capped the electric mirror control (went to manual mirrors awhile ago) and plugged some wiper/turn stock holes with BH3D grommets. Top probably won't come off the 77... but just in case.
Bummed. So while it was draining that pristine Toyota red I took some small wins on the interior. Swapped out a burnt bulb, capped the electric mirror control (went to manual mirrors awhile ago) and plugged some wiper/turn stock holes with BH3D grommets. Top probably won't come off the 77... but just in case.
Took off the stalk assembly. Now where to get a new one? Hmmm. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Partsourq or Amayama is where I got mine this is an expensive one... grrr
I was afraid of the cost. What did you pay? Did you re0lace everything in the photo I posted?
JDM Journeys
Moderator
That is totally why! I was just about to sing the praises of my alum rad too. But maybe now is not the time? Sucks dude...
You're in a good 1HZ groove right now. Praise away!
Mine came with the rig so not totally sure of it's origin. Looks pretty identical to the Ebay ones I see posted there tho. It's held up for the 6+ years I've had it and seems repairable.
I don't have the P/N handy, but these were available through US dealers the last time I checked. I did not think the price was too bad, and was planning on picking one up for the inevitable. Check/search @coldtaco thread, he has the PN listed some where.
For which model?
