- Thread starter
- #61
I have not been able to successfully run a bead without blowing holes. How do you?
Welding practice (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter GerhardUngerer
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This is what was meant when we said prep is key, metal needs to be cleaned and raw on both sides within an inch of the weld.
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
that's the zinc getting you.
Don't forget, you can also fine adjust the heat by changing the distance from your electrode to the metal.
That being said if I am welding sheet metal I rarely try to run a bead and also prefer to stack spot welds.
- Thread starter
- #66
HA!
Ok, I just tried that weird nozzle. Only thing I can think of is that it makes sure you have consistent stickout??
Anyway, here's what I just tried on some sheet metal that's .034" thick.
The top looking right to left is the same voltage setting and I increased wire feed speed. The last one on the left just piles on top and not enough penetration.
The next picture is the bottom view showing the penetration.
The bottom left is my favorite setting. Good penetration and minimum grinding to do.
The only difference on the bottom two is wire feed speed. But I increased voltage compared to the top ones.
So my point is to get a piece of clean steel the thickness you are working with and play with the settings on your welder.
Anyway, here's what I just tried on some sheet metal that's .034" thick.
The top looking right to left is the same voltage setting and I increased wire feed speed. The last one on the left just piles on top and not enough penetration.
The next picture is the bottom view showing the penetration.
The bottom left is my favorite setting. Good penetration and minimum grinding to do.
The only difference on the bottom two is wire feed speed. But I increased voltage compared to the top ones.
So my point is to get a piece of clean steel the thickness you are working with and play with the settings on your welder.
It's hard to give a "on time" for the trigger. On my welder, when it's set the way I like it, it has a very distinct buzz and I must have muscle memory for how long I hold the trigger.
It definitely feels and sounds different at different settings. If it's popping or pushing away, it's not right.
It definitely feels and sounds different at different settings. If it's popping or pushing away, it's not right.
- Thread starter
- #69
Which one had more wire speed?
I increased it a little every time. The highest wire feed speed is the one on the left in the top pic.
And it's the one without penetration on the right in the bottom pic. The piece was just flipped over
And it's the one without penetration on the right in the bottom pic. The piece was just flipped over
It's actually .030. I'm still setup for my frame.
My lead is only 15'.
My lead is only 15'.
I didn't clean the rust or mill scale off either. 
CharlieS
GOLD Star
One thing I don't care for on some welders is the step versus continuous rheostat. It forces you to compromise.
The one I have now is too high tech for my own good, sort of going in the other direction. It will automatically adjust the settings for the material, shielding gas, wire, etc. I end up twiddling settings until it sounds right and feels right.
With your drive, I think you'll get to a point soon where you can feel, hear and see a good weld. Keep practicing!
I prefer .023 for 18 ga sheet metal but my most recent sheet metal fixes I used .030. There's a bit of art with the science.
The one I have now is too high tech for my own good, sort of going in the other direction. It will automatically adjust the settings for the material, shielding gas, wire, etc. I end up twiddling settings until it sounds right and feels right.
With your drive, I think you'll get to a point soon where you can feel, hear and see a good weld. Keep practicing!
I prefer .023 for 18 ga sheet metal but my most recent sheet metal fixes I used .030. There's a bit of art with the science.
My welder has the steps but at least there's 6 of high and low. I have a digital display that will show voltage but the wire feed speed is just a dial with numbers. It would be nice if I knew the inches per minute.
Any thoughts from you guys on pulsed TIG? I've read that a lot of people use MIG for body work on cars, but in theory pulsed TIG seems like it could have some big advantages (less heat/distortion, more control, cleaner welds)., if you set it up right. I say this as a self-confessed total novice who has no idea WTF he's doing with welding yet though, so if any of you guys have TIG experience I'd be interested in your thoughts.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
‘I’d learn all the geek stuff first beyond walking the cup. Just mastering cup walk is a perishable skill.
Also, the tungsten sharpener you use is almost more important than the machine.
My home TIG machine is just a Miller Econotig, but it’s both AC/DC, and I bought a great tungsten sharpener - YT sharpeners, you’ll see how important for arc control they really are.
1st thing I did with the sharpener was some 3” SS tube for wet exhaust on my LS3 jet boat - it’s no Miller Dynasty level, but it turned out dang decent.
I find .023 to be much easier for sheet metal
I'm getting nicer looking welds using it on metal up to 3/16 thick
I'm getting nicer looking welds using it on metal up to 3/16 thick
CharlieS
GOLD Star
TIG is awesome, and better for heat control, but MIG is super accessible and easy to pick up and be productive quickly. Ditto to comments above on tungsten. Machine setup can be a pain. And the welds sure can be pretty. I find the good ones (water cooled torch, foot pedal, AC/DC) aren't economical for how infrequently I weld in my home shop. The cheap lift start TIG that I have with my muliprocess machine is fine, but for most stuff I'd just use the MIG stinger or spool gun (mine is set up for aluminum). A buddy has a high end Miller TIG that is a joy to use, but it is a several thousand dollar rig (he welds for a living and hobby).
I chuckle when I hear the conversation with folks that do body work and production welders.
Production welding is highly skilled and they do all they can for a proper penetration, good looking weld with minimal distortion, and optimum strength, while staying within the guidelines of ASME or AWS or whatever governing body applies.
Then there are panel beaters. Whatever glues that crap together, grind it off, cover it in Bondo, slam it back together, sand it down, and coat it. Welding for proper penetration and strength has NOTHING to do with it. It's ALL about the heat distortion and whatever is the least amount to make it "functional".
I cringe when I see folks do body work and the weld quality done with it. I inspect a lot of welds for AWS equipment (no, I am NOT a CWI) but I work with fabrication shops all over the USA, and I see all levels of expertise.
I am of the opinion that a weld must be complete, sealed, and proper penetration, but that translates to a lot of heat and proper setup, which takes time.
Then I see what "passes" for most body work and it is NOTHING like I think it should be. When it is done like I think, from a welding standpoint, then the body guy cannot recover it due to warpage.
So, I end up letting it rust into nothingness, because my OCD won't allow me to do half-assed work, so I do nothing at all......
