I know my limitations but much respect for welders and welders in making.
Welding practice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GerhardUngerer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
I will keep posting progress so that you guys can either cheer me along or laugh at my stupid mistakes.Looks like you're just a few weeks ahead of where I am. I have some body work to do on my 80:
I also want to weld in the seat brackets for rear seats, so I have the option of running with them.
Rust Repair - What would you do with this?
Some background first of all. So my 80 is in pretty good nick overall, and the frame is rust free. The body has some issues though, with some attempts at a repair by the previous owner. Whoever owned this rig before liked to do some water crossings it seems. However they didn't take the time to...forum.ih8mud.com
After spending a long time looking at models and thinking about it, I just picked up a MIG welder and plasma cutter. I'm also seriously considering getting a pulsed TIG machine so I can learn both types. I'm interested to see how you go, I just need to pick up gas and wire for mine, and I'll be starting to practice too.
smritte
SILVER Star
I'll +1 with the guys who spot weld the patch in with a mig. I use my welding magnets to hold the patch straight. I don't do patch panels regularly but have done my share over the years.
I normally buy the thinner cut off wheels and only buy ceramic flap disk sanders now.
I normally buy the thinner cut off wheels and only buy ceramic flap disk sanders now.
- Thread starter
- #24
Which cut-off wheels do you use? They seem to come in all price ranges.
smritte
SILVER Star
Ugh.
Don't remember. I just point when I'm at the abrasive store. I think its either .040 or .045.
The thinner ones wear quickly, are more subjective to breakage if you don't hold it straight but, cut faster and thinner lines. I generally use my plasma. If I only need a couple of cuts and they only need to be somewhat straight, I just grab my cut off wheel.
smritte
SILVER Star
Forgot to add.
They passed some kind of law here (calif). It changed what they could use for cutoff wheels. The ones I buy are rated for stainless. When this happened, the wheels had issues cutting. They almost didn't even throw sparks. Talking to the guys at the store, they recommended I buy ones rated for stainless. Theses cut as good as the ones before the change.
They passed some kind of law here (calif). It changed what they could use for cutoff wheels. The ones I buy are rated for stainless. When this happened, the wheels had issues cutting. They almost didn't even throw sparks. Talking to the guys at the store, they recommended I buy ones rated for stainless. Theses cut as good as the ones before the change.
- Thread starter
- #27
Update - I made the patch panel along the body line, welded it up (inside and out) and tacked it to the door. I bought a 0.040 cut-off blade that I was going to use to perform the cut-and-butt technique mentioned earlier. I didn't drill the corners like I should have.
The welding was fine. The fitting was fine. Oh my goodness, the cutting was AWFUL. I ended up having to just cut it all out and remake the patch. The new patch is larger, which is Ok for practice, but would not be ideal on the vehicle.
<sigh>. Keeping on practicing. Any advice of the dang cut-off wheel? I am thinking 4 1/2 wheel is a bit too big for this job?
Making the new patch was no big deal. I probably should use clecos and overlay the old piece while it is made. Then just cut the whole and massage the patch to fit.
Top stitch-welded and sanded. Looks pretty good?
Decent amount of penetration.
The welding was fine. The fitting was fine. Oh my goodness, the cutting was AWFUL. I ended up having to just cut it all out and remake the patch. The new patch is larger, which is Ok for practice, but would not be ideal on the vehicle.
<sigh>. Keeping on practicing. Any advice of the dang cut-off wheel? I am thinking 4 1/2 wheel is a bit too big for this job?
Making the new patch was no big deal. I probably should use clecos and overlay the old piece while it is made. Then just cut the whole and massage the patch to fit.
Top stitch-welded and sanded. Looks pretty good?
Decent amount of penetration.
Roark Supply
forum.ih8mud.com
If you catch the black Friday sale the prices are unbeatable, I stock up then.
In the middle of my thread I did a lot of sheet metal work, took a lot of practice but I got it done old school millermatic 250 and .023 wire
Keep at it your doing good !!
I don't have any trouble with the thin .040" 4 1/2" cutting wheels on my Metabo angle grinder. If I need to get in a tight spot, I'll use a die grinder with a cut off wheel or even an air saw with a fine tooth blade. I have used my corded jig saw with a fine metal blade as well.
Try different methods and use whatever works best for you.
The back side of the weld seam will look like another bead when it is completely fused.
As mentioned, there shouldn't be the black soot. Lack of shielding gas for whatever reason. A breeze, wrong flow setting, wrong nozzle.
Like Broski said. You're doing pretty good.
Try different methods and use whatever works best for you.
The back side of the weld seam will look like another bead when it is completely fused.
As mentioned, there shouldn't be the black soot. Lack of shielding gas for whatever reason. A breeze, wrong flow setting, wrong nozzle.
Like Broski said. You're doing pretty good.
Looks like it needs to be hotter or stay on the trigger a bit longer.
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes, gas was running at about 20 CFH
Is your polarity correct?
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks. There is a breeze. I had AC installed in my garage and it is blowing pretty good. Maybe will turn it down.
- Thread starter
- #35
Yes. I probably need to turn the AC fan down. Or maybe check to see if I am running low on gas.
- Thread starter
- #36
So I should stay on the trigger longer? I was blowing holes earlier and backed off a bit.
Well I guess not if you were blowing holes through. I can just judge by the pic as best as I can. It just looks a bit cold to me anyway. If it was me on my machine I would either change the settings or a little bit more on time. In your case you said it burned a hole so I guess I'd play with the settings.
You're very motivated and trying hard so I have no doubt that you'll find your ideal setting/technique.
You're very motivated and trying hard so I have no doubt that you'll find your ideal setting/technique.
Another thing to keep in mind is keep your stickout consistent. They make spot welding nozzles that might help. I have one but never tried it. Maybe I should. 
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
I was a cert’d welder in all positions for my job & scratch-arc TIG was my preferred machine at work, but we cheated & MIG’d SS on live heat exchangers, just gross patches as sulfuric acid vapor ran thru them.
I hear and understand where some guys like no-gap patches, but when you flap wheel it smooth, you just took back all your weld, so it’s not my way of learning or desired result. You do you, but I don’t like that method myself.
Making new SS spoolpieces (random hunk of pipe generally flanged on all ends) the process was to TIG the root pass & stick fill the buildup material & we’d bevel back to 45° the weld joint pieces to get a 90° with a slight gap at the root.
Just my $.02.
Also - Pferd brand disc. They aren’t the cheapest, but they don’t blow apart unless you screw up.
And yes - I’m betting $6 the fan blew the shield gas off.
That looks like what we’d get on windy days outside. Why welders build hooches, it’s wind or rain we’re fighting - not because we melt in a little rain
I hear and understand where some guys like no-gap patches, but when you flap wheel it smooth, you just took back all your weld, so it’s not my way of learning or desired result. You do you, but I don’t like that method myself.
Making new SS spoolpieces (random hunk of pipe generally flanged on all ends) the process was to TIG the root pass & stick fill the buildup material & we’d bevel back to 45° the weld joint pieces to get a 90° with a slight gap at the root.
Just my $.02.
Also - Pferd brand disc. They aren’t the cheapest, but they don’t blow apart unless you screw up.
And yes - I’m betting $6 the fan blew the shield gas off.
That looks like what we’d get on windy days outside. Why welders build hooches, it’s wind or rain we’re fighting - not because we melt in a little rain
- Thread starter
- #40
I dont understand. Are you saying that I need to overlap? Or that I need to bridge the gap?
