I also made the mistake of buying the braided lines kit from Man A Fre lol
Here’s the part number for the lines I used - theyre the frame to axle lines on a
# 96940-33005
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Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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I also made the mistake of buying the braided lines kit from Man A Fre lol
Here’s the part number for the lines I used - theyre the frame to axle lines on a
# 96940-33005
- Thread starter
- #302
Awesome. I was betting that somebody had figured this out. Thanks!
From this thread: 80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rear-axle-with-front-axle-tundra-brake-mod.1170432/
"I retained the stock FJ62 brake line and used stock front FJ60 frame to axle soft brake lines (part # 96940-33005; 2 needed) to connect the hard axle brake line to calipers."
That's the exact thread that I read when I did my swap - thanks godwin!
- Thread starter
- #305
@yotadude520 @Godwin I love this forum. You guys rule.
- Thread starter
- #306
Well, I took a closer look at my exhaust situation today, then spent the rest of the day fabbing & welding. The whole thing was about ready to fall off. Not perfect - I’m still missing two exhaust mounting points - but it works. My welds are definitely farmer quality.
This piece had cracked. Made some junk and welded it together.
Closed up some holes in the test pipe I made last year using tube and some spare flanges from a bad catalytic converter. I’m still unsure about things, so the cat remains on the shelf while I keep testing haha.
Went from this
To this
By doing this
I also noticed leakage where the pipe enters the muffler so I sealed that up.
My welds are such garbage. I need to get some gas so I can stop running flux core … and then practice. Hey, it’s exhaust, it’s gonna work. The truck is quieter than it’s ever been so that’s great.
I still need to get the bellhousing hanger, the hanger before the cat area, and a new bushing where the muffler hangs. The latter is separated, but working by gravity. Good enough to get down the road for now, but one day I should rebuild the whole exhaust.
This piece had cracked. Made some junk and welded it together.
Closed up some holes in the test pipe I made last year using tube and some spare flanges from a bad catalytic converter. I’m still unsure about things, so the cat remains on the shelf while I keep testing haha.
Went from this
To this
By doing this
I also noticed leakage where the pipe enters the muffler so I sealed that up.
My welds are such garbage. I need to get some gas so I can stop running flux core … and then practice. Hey, it’s exhaust, it’s gonna work. The truck is quieter than it’s ever been so that’s great.
I still need to get the bellhousing hanger, the hanger before the cat area, and a new bushing where the muffler hangs. The latter is separated, but working by gravity. Good enough to get down the road for now, but one day I should rebuild the whole exhaust.
- Thread starter
- #307
I also spotted this Bandeirante on my way home. Such weird trucks.
My rear most exhaust hanger has been broken for years. The universal strap broke, it had holes in it, so I tied it together with some wire from a coat hanger. It squeaks when I shut my door. It’s just normal at this point now. Good work on yours!
- Thread starter
- #309
Don’t worry, I got a lot of other noises I ignore. I haven’t forgotten my trashy roots.
How long did it take to get this done? I sent him one months ago and haven't heard anything.
- Thread starter
- #311
The distributor? 20 months of contact via email, Mud message, and voicemails for a response telling me to send my distributor. I sent it a few days later. I think it was around 4 months after that when I got a PayPal invoice for the work. The box with my freshly built and recurved dizzy showed up two weeks later.
No judgement- just being honest and factual.
- Thread starter
- #312
Still have an odd intermittent ticking sound along with a whirring noise, so the exhaust stuff didn’t solve that. Both are relatively quiet and you have to strain to hear them - as always my hyper focus and anxiety is at play here. The ticking noise sounds like a rock stuck in the tire - but it’s not. It sort of comes and goes and is arhythmic when it is happening. Mostly happening at higher rpms, say above 1800. Seems to happen more often on decel, though it happens while accelerating occasionally - and half the time it doesn’t happen at all. The whirring noise mainly happens at lower and middle rpm (1200-1800) on acceleration. Ticking feels like the passenger side, maybe in the rear, and the sound is coming in through open windows, not from within the cab. The whirring noise seems to be even between my left and right ears, coming from the open windows, and more up front and down low. I went to school (amongst other schools) for audio engineering and have spent 20 years mixing a couple records a year as a side thing - I have good ears.
What could have gone wrong? For the diff work I basically did most of a knuckle job in the front. Back is a little more foolproof: slide the axles out, then slide them back in and put the c-clips on. I checked torque with a torque wrench on everything related to the gears themselves (without moving the bolts) before install. The only bolt that moves was the fixing bolt for the center pin in the rear - that has to come out to remove & replace the c-clips. Remember I did swap the pinion flanges, so my best guess is that I got the preload wrong. Both front and rear are at about 120ft-lb, the FSM minimum. Preload in the rear is dead on in the middle for the FSM spec range of reusing the crush sleeve - that’s including turning the wheels and tires with the back jacked up and I’m not sure if that’s how they measure. The front is registering almost no preload, and I’m a little nervous to go tighter on the pinion nut. I don’t want to crush the sleeve any more than it originally was. Neither pinion has any play in any direction.
Currently no driveshaft in the front, it’s at a shop getting rebuilt. I did notice that the transfer case front output flange has a VERY small amount of play directly in and out. The flange nut was torqued to spec and staked when I rebuilt it in April. Still staked. Maybe that’s the noise? I also noticed that in hacking my truck up and down the past few weeks, my extra long sway bar links with ball joints in them get really maxed out at the joint. Another possibility.
Or maybe it still is the exhaust because I didn’t get all the hangers dialed in.
What could have gone wrong? For the diff work I basically did most of a knuckle job in the front. Back is a little more foolproof: slide the axles out, then slide them back in and put the c-clips on. I checked torque with a torque wrench on everything related to the gears themselves (without moving the bolts) before install. The only bolt that moves was the fixing bolt for the center pin in the rear - that has to come out to remove & replace the c-clips. Remember I did swap the pinion flanges, so my best guess is that I got the preload wrong. Both front and rear are at about 120ft-lb, the FSM minimum. Preload in the rear is dead on in the middle for the FSM spec range of reusing the crush sleeve - that’s including turning the wheels and tires with the back jacked up and I’m not sure if that’s how they measure. The front is registering almost no preload, and I’m a little nervous to go tighter on the pinion nut. I don’t want to crush the sleeve any more than it originally was. Neither pinion has any play in any direction.
Currently no driveshaft in the front, it’s at a shop getting rebuilt. I did notice that the transfer case front output flange has a VERY small amount of play directly in and out. The flange nut was torqued to spec and staked when I rebuilt it in April. Still staked. Maybe that’s the noise? I also noticed that in hacking my truck up and down the past few weeks, my extra long sway bar links with ball joints in them get really maxed out at the joint. Another possibility.
Or maybe it still is the exhaust because I didn’t get all the hangers dialed in.
I'm getting ready to pull the exhaust off of my 60 from the headers back. It's in good shape if you want it, you're more than welcome to have it for free. I can bring it up with me when I go back to Denver the first weekend of October.
- Thread starter
- #314
I’m 100% into that!
Sweet! It's all yours.
It was cut from the EGR back and I think the cat is gutted but it should fix your above problem lol
- Thread starter
- #316
Yesterday I led the inaugural 60s Only Run with my local TLCA chapter, Rising Sun. Three 60s, a 62, and an 80 driven by the club’s Event Coordinator who was no doubt there to keep an eye on us hooligans.
The trail was easy-medium out-and-back and only took about 90 minutes each way. We had a nice lunch at the top by an alpine lake and bullshitted for a couple hours. On the way down two of us peeled off to camp and left the other ones to drive home - all of them had done this trail many times so they were good heading down themselves.
The new Kenda tires did fantastic Aires down to 18 front/22 rear. This trail is a lot of loose rock, so there was some sliding around, but the guy following me said I didn’t spin tires once. When the situation called for it, the 9.5 width fit between rocks nicely.
Got my front driveshaft rebuilt earlier this week and that solved the clunking issue in 4WD I’ve been experiencing for months. The ball in the double cardan was blown out. It was nice being able to run in 4 for the first time this year.
This week I also found my exhaust was hanging on by the manifold and a rubber hanger that was split in half - the latter only holding the exhaust by gravity and not a single bolt. Spent some time putting booger welds on things. I also boogered over the top of previous boogers to seal up some leaks. I need to eventually redo the entire exhaust and use all of the hangers. It held up on the trail so that’s a win.
I also drained and filled the rear diff fluid before we came on this trip. The usual soft fuzz on the magnets, but not a lot and no chunks! Looks like when I torqued the pinion nut on the flange I did ok! Hopefully the front is ok too.
Oh - another weird issue I caught this week: I kept hearing what I thought was a rock in the tire. Checked, no rock. The sound was intermittent and most on decel. My partner Karen rode with me and determined it was coming from the front. I’m not sure how the eureka moment came to me, but … one of the spark plug wires wasn’t fully seated on the dizzy cap when I installed the Jim C dizzy last weekend. I was hearing intermittent arcing!
So the truck is doing pretty well right now. I can ignore it for a while and dig into the motor rebuild finally. More on that soon,
The trail was easy-medium out-and-back and only took about 90 minutes each way. We had a nice lunch at the top by an alpine lake and bullshitted for a couple hours. On the way down two of us peeled off to camp and left the other ones to drive home - all of them had done this trail many times so they were good heading down themselves.
The new Kenda tires did fantastic Aires down to 18 front/22 rear. This trail is a lot of loose rock, so there was some sliding around, but the guy following me said I didn’t spin tires once. When the situation called for it, the 9.5 width fit between rocks nicely.
Got my front driveshaft rebuilt earlier this week and that solved the clunking issue in 4WD I’ve been experiencing for months. The ball in the double cardan was blown out. It was nice being able to run in 4 for the first time this year.
This week I also found my exhaust was hanging on by the manifold and a rubber hanger that was split in half - the latter only holding the exhaust by gravity and not a single bolt. Spent some time putting booger welds on things. I also boogered over the top of previous boogers to seal up some leaks. I need to eventually redo the entire exhaust and use all of the hangers. It held up on the trail so that’s a win.
I also drained and filled the rear diff fluid before we came on this trip. The usual soft fuzz on the magnets, but not a lot and no chunks! Looks like when I torqued the pinion nut on the flange I did ok! Hopefully the front is ok too.
Oh - another weird issue I caught this week: I kept hearing what I thought was a rock in the tire. Checked, no rock. The sound was intermittent and most on decel. My partner Karen rode with me and determined it was coming from the front. I’m not sure how the eureka moment came to me, but … one of the spark plug wires wasn’t fully seated on the dizzy cap when I installed the Jim C dizzy last weekend. I was hearing intermittent arcing!
So the truck is doing pretty well right now. I can ignore it for a while and dig into the motor rebuild finally. More on that soon,
- Thread starter
- #317
Got some rain for the first time in weeks last night. Came out to the truck and found a nice puddle on the driver side floor. It’s coming from the area behind the fuse panel door.
In the last photo you can see a water drop making it’s way down the side of the dash frame. I can’t for the life of me see where it’s getting in above that. Lower corner of the windshield maybe?
In the last photo you can see a water drop making it’s way down the side of the dash frame. I can’t for the life of me see where it’s getting in above that. Lower corner of the windshield maybe?
FJBen
SILVER Star
I’m not up up to speed on the 60 series, but the 70 is notorious for leaking at the windows seal around the bottle corners.
- Thread starter
- #319
That’s what I’m thinking. It comes in at the bottom corner, along the inside of the body work, and then hits that attachment bracket for the dash that you see above and to the left of the water drop in my last photo.
It’s a replacement windshield and gasket that we’re on the truck when I bought it. Hasn’t leaked like this before. Bummer.
- Thread starter
- #320
I wonder if the small crack in the windshield provides a place for water to intrude. I used the auto parts store rock chip filler all along the entire crack, but obviously I couldn’t get to the very edge of it against the weatherstripping or anything underneath. I did check the top of the windshield and weather strip and that all looks good.
