I've been looking at SBP for new belts for my truck as well. Glad to hear you had a good experience. Given your comments on the dark brown, I may go lighter with mine.
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
I ordered a bunch of free samples last week. The lighter brown - to me anyway - didn’t look right. They do have a color that almost perfectly matches the headliner, so that’s a good option.
- Thread starter
- #263
Pre-SAS tune up today:
Oil change + BG MOA
Oil filter
Fuel filter
Air filter
Spark plugs
Front brake pads
Replace u-joint at rear diff
Bent the transmission mount more and installed the front driveshaft
Matilda’s as ready as she’s gonna get mechanically. Brakes, clutch, cooling, timing, fuel delivery, suspension, steering, electrical, lighting, and front seat belts are all good to go. Maybe I’ll do the valves if I get time, but they sound good. Maybe I’ll pop a tack weld on the one tiny exhaust leak spot.
The final push will be the dual battery system. Everything is on hand, it’s just a matter of fabbing up a couple of brackets and running lots of cable & wire.
4.11 diffs and the rebuilt motor will hopefully be in by the Steamboat Color Cruise in late September.
Oil change + BG MOA
Oil filter
Fuel filter
Air filter
Spark plugs
Front brake pads
Replace u-joint at rear diff
Bent the transmission mount more and installed the front driveshaft
Matilda’s as ready as she’s gonna get mechanically. Brakes, clutch, cooling, timing, fuel delivery, suspension, steering, electrical, lighting, and front seat belts are all good to go. Maybe I’ll do the valves if I get time, but they sound good. Maybe I’ll pop a tack weld on the one tiny exhaust leak spot.
The final push will be the dual battery system. Everything is on hand, it’s just a matter of fabbing up a couple of brackets and running lots of cable & wire.
4.11 diffs and the rebuilt motor will hopefully be in by the Steamboat Color Cruise in late September.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #265
Yesterday’s work: dual batteries. Karen came to the shop and helped a lot. I had to deal with some distractions that took me away for about four hours, so we ended up going until 11:30PM. My kids’ mom dropped the ball on a couple things so I had to play chauffeur - the upshot is that I got to spend some time with my kids on a day that I normally wouldn’t. I’m always up for that. Heck, my 16 year old even wanted to work (for money), so he got my backyard cleaned up pretty well. All in all a nice day, a little more relaxing. The critical stuff for SAS is done, save for checking suspension torque and checking fluids in the diffs and transmission/transfer. That’s easy though.
I ran into a couple snags.
1. I had Battery Cables USA custom make all the 2/0 cabling. The long positive and ground cables between the batteries are too long. I figured too long was better than too short, but when you’re dealing with cabling that doesn’t want to bend and you have to find somewhere for the extra to live, too long is just as bad. The cables run behind the lower valence, between the valence and lower rank of the radiator.
2. I put a 300A maxi fuse just off either battery in either end of the long positive cable for catastrophic dead short protection. Even though that cable has nylon expandable sleeping and a hard plastic split loom, I don’t want to take any chances. Well, one of the Blue Sea maxi fuse holders had a stud with goobered threads. Got the nut on and stuck. Removed it while holding the stud with channel locks, which goobered up more threads (the stud was spinning and I was out of options). I didn’t have the proper die so I hand filed the threads, put the nut on, and it’s stuck again. For the time being I used the hood stud to directly connect the two cables being fused. Most people I talked to about dual batteries don’t even bother fusing the long main positive cable so I’ll roll like this temporarily until I get another fuse holder.
3. Got an Amazon special dual voltmeter, the kind you drill a round hole for and spin a big plastic nut onto the back. I cut it open, cut a hole in the face of a factory switch blank, and stuffed the guts of the voltmeter into switch blank. I did this with a single voltmeter a while back and it looks factory-ish. Well, this double voltmeter gets a fused feed straight off the second battery, and a key-switched feed from the starter battery. Silly me thinking that it would stay off until the ignition was switched on - it turns on if it senses a voltage from EITHER battery, meaning even when I shut the vehicle down, the voltmeter display is permanently on. This morning I found a thread here on Mud about modifying a similar Amazon unit so it’s key switched (search “MICTUNING” in the Power Systems forum). I’ll try that tonight.
4. The doozy was learning that the Blue Sea ML-ACR, the voltage sensing solenoid that’s the heart of the system, only senses voltage from one side. I had the cables made up such that I’m connecting the start battery to the wrong side. The ACR is just constantly sensing the Aux battery side, which of course isn’t connected to the alternator (until the solenoid closes). So it’s never connecting the batteries. Trouble is I had all the small cables made to exact lengths and there’s no way for me to simply switch them around because one of them won’t reach. D’oh! There’s a lesson in reading the instructions first! I’m going to have to scramble to find somebody local or a shop that can make me a 2/0 cable today or tomorrow, because I don’t have the supplies on hand for that. Worst case I have a leftover section of 1/0 kicking around from a past project (can’t even remember what) that I’m going to have to use temporarily.
5. The remote switch for the ACR - basically a dash-mounted switch that forces the solenoid open or closed - doesn’t seem to be working despite triple checking the connections. Still scratching my head on that.
6. Coolant overflow bottle definitely doesn’t fit between the aux battery and the new air intake. There’s no way. I stuck it behind the starter battery and it seems ok. The lid contacts the hood liner when it’s closed, so I’ll trim the bracket and drop it down about 1/2”. FWIW the bracket is from Stainless Trays. Nicely made piece but needed a little mod to make it fit with the factory battery hood down, and now with the height. The hose to the radiator is kind of looped around above the alternator which makes me nervous, but it doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Maybe down the road I’ll reroute it.
6. USB charger & voltmeter in the back, mounted into the cargo panel is also always-on like the front voltmeter. It has a fuses lead straight from the Aux battery. I need to buy one of the voltmeters with an on/off switch.
*** I’m open to any and all guidance on this stuff. I know my way around electricity and electronics, but the application of dual battery systems is brand new to me.
I ran into a couple snags.
1. I had Battery Cables USA custom make all the 2/0 cabling. The long positive and ground cables between the batteries are too long. I figured too long was better than too short, but when you’re dealing with cabling that doesn’t want to bend and you have to find somewhere for the extra to live, too long is just as bad. The cables run behind the lower valence, between the valence and lower rank of the radiator.
2. I put a 300A maxi fuse just off either battery in either end of the long positive cable for catastrophic dead short protection. Even though that cable has nylon expandable sleeping and a hard plastic split loom, I don’t want to take any chances. Well, one of the Blue Sea maxi fuse holders had a stud with goobered threads. Got the nut on and stuck. Removed it while holding the stud with channel locks, which goobered up more threads (the stud was spinning and I was out of options). I didn’t have the proper die so I hand filed the threads, put the nut on, and it’s stuck again. For the time being I used the hood stud to directly connect the two cables being fused. Most people I talked to about dual batteries don’t even bother fusing the long main positive cable so I’ll roll like this temporarily until I get another fuse holder.
3. Got an Amazon special dual voltmeter, the kind you drill a round hole for and spin a big plastic nut onto the back. I cut it open, cut a hole in the face of a factory switch blank, and stuffed the guts of the voltmeter into switch blank. I did this with a single voltmeter a while back and it looks factory-ish. Well, this double voltmeter gets a fused feed straight off the second battery, and a key-switched feed from the starter battery. Silly me thinking that it would stay off until the ignition was switched on - it turns on if it senses a voltage from EITHER battery, meaning even when I shut the vehicle down, the voltmeter display is permanently on. This morning I found a thread here on Mud about modifying a similar Amazon unit so it’s key switched (search “MICTUNING” in the Power Systems forum). I’ll try that tonight.
4. The doozy was learning that the Blue Sea ML-ACR, the voltage sensing solenoid that’s the heart of the system, only senses voltage from one side. I had the cables made up such that I’m connecting the start battery to the wrong side. The ACR is just constantly sensing the Aux battery side, which of course isn’t connected to the alternator (until the solenoid closes). So it’s never connecting the batteries. Trouble is I had all the small cables made to exact lengths and there’s no way for me to simply switch them around because one of them won’t reach. D’oh! There’s a lesson in reading the instructions first! I’m going to have to scramble to find somebody local or a shop that can make me a 2/0 cable today or tomorrow, because I don’t have the supplies on hand for that. Worst case I have a leftover section of 1/0 kicking around from a past project (can’t even remember what) that I’m going to have to use temporarily.
5. The remote switch for the ACR - basically a dash-mounted switch that forces the solenoid open or closed - doesn’t seem to be working despite triple checking the connections. Still scratching my head on that.
6. Coolant overflow bottle definitely doesn’t fit between the aux battery and the new air intake. There’s no way. I stuck it behind the starter battery and it seems ok. The lid contacts the hood liner when it’s closed, so I’ll trim the bracket and drop it down about 1/2”. FWIW the bracket is from Stainless Trays. Nicely made piece but needed a little mod to make it fit with the factory battery hood down, and now with the height. The hose to the radiator is kind of looped around above the alternator which makes me nervous, but it doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Maybe down the road I’ll reroute it.
6. USB charger & voltmeter in the back, mounted into the cargo panel is also always-on like the front voltmeter. It has a fuses lead straight from the Aux battery. I need to buy one of the voltmeters with an on/off switch.
*** I’m open to any and all guidance on this stuff. I know my way around electricity and electronics, but the application of dual battery systems is brand new to me.
- Thread starter
- #266
By the way, the big rubber firewall pass-through grommet below the clutch master cylinder hates me. There’s now so much crap running through there 
1x big stock harness
1x small stock harness
1x O2 sensor wire for A/F gauge
1x choke cable
3x small harness (ML-ACR switch bundle, aux battery voltage wire, upper radiator hose temp sensor)
1x big stock harness
1x small stock harness
1x O2 sensor wire for A/F gauge
1x choke cable
3x small harness (ML-ACR switch bundle, aux battery voltage wire, upper radiator hose temp sensor)
- Thread starter
- #267
Got the ML-ACR and cabin switch functional last night. I had forgotten to provide the ML-ACR with a ground. Duh, what an easy oversight. Sorted out a bunch of small tweaks and final clean up items. Bundled and zip tied wires.
The two unresolved issues are the dual voltmeter not turning off (and appearing to be wildly inaccurate, thanks Amazon!) and the cargo area USB charger/voltmeter not turning off. The cargo area problem is easy - I have a USB/voltmeter in my stash that has an on/off button. Dual voltmeter I have a few ideas on. Either remove the diode like the thread I mentioned in my post above or run the connection from the starter battery - the one that is key switched and goes to the voltemeter - through a relay coil, and use the switch side of the relay to break the ground connection to the dual voltmeter. The problem there is that the the meter for the starter battery will then read lower - there’s a voltage drop through the coil of the relay since it has resistance. I did see that the dual voltmeter has two trimpots in the PC board, so maybe those are gauge adjustments. I could compensate for the voltage drop - make the meter read the same as a multimeter reading pre-coil - and also adjust for how inaccurate both meters are. In any case, the system is very close.
Forgive me, for I have sinned. Cut a hole in the dash for the ML-ACR remote switch. There were a couple drilled holes there from an old aftermarket cruise control system anyway. If that part of the dash was intact I probably would have mounted the switch elsewhere. Below the switch you can see the dual-stage FJ40 light switch I use for the Aux lights on the front of the truck. Pull once for two lights, pull again for all four.
At the end of the day, a remote battery switch is the way to go. Just shut down the feed from the house battery when not in use. That might be phase two.
The two unresolved issues are the dual voltmeter not turning off (and appearing to be wildly inaccurate, thanks Amazon!) and the cargo area USB charger/voltmeter not turning off. The cargo area problem is easy - I have a USB/voltmeter in my stash that has an on/off button. Dual voltmeter I have a few ideas on. Either remove the diode like the thread I mentioned in my post above or run the connection from the starter battery - the one that is key switched and goes to the voltemeter - through a relay coil, and use the switch side of the relay to break the ground connection to the dual voltmeter. The problem there is that the the meter for the starter battery will then read lower - there’s a voltage drop through the coil of the relay since it has resistance. I did see that the dual voltmeter has two trimpots in the PC board, so maybe those are gauge adjustments. I could compensate for the voltage drop - make the meter read the same as a multimeter reading pre-coil - and also adjust for how inaccurate both meters are. In any case, the system is very close.
Forgive me, for I have sinned. Cut a hole in the dash for the ML-ACR remote switch. There were a couple drilled holes there from an old aftermarket cruise control system anyway. If that part of the dash was intact I probably would have mounted the switch elsewhere. Below the switch you can see the dual-stage FJ40 light switch I use for the Aux lights on the front of the truck. Pull once for two lights, pull again for all four.
At the end of the day, a remote battery switch is the way to go. Just shut down the feed from the house battery when not in use. That might be phase two.
- Thread starter
- #268
Alright, we’re complete and I’m calling this one done. Swapped the cargo area charger for one with an on/off button and was able to modify the dual voltmeter so it only turns on with input voltage on one of the inputs, not either.
I added my write up on the modification process to this thread. Really it’s as simple as removing one diode. The trimpots are indeed calibration adjustments so I got that squared away too.
All that’s left is check torque on the suspension and check fluid levels underneath the truck. Almost ready.
I added my write up on the modification process to this thread. Really it’s as simple as removing one diode. The trimpots are indeed calibration adjustments so I got that squared away too.
All that’s left is check torque on the suspension and check fluid levels underneath the truck. Almost ready.
- Thread starter
- #269
Back from Solid Axle Summit. Too much to post about that, so I'll get to it later.
A few issues arose either on the trip or when we returned. Nothing catastrophic that required road- or trail-side repairs, but things that need to be addressed.
1. Front drive shaft double cardan had a ton of play. This was the source of the front end noise in 4WD after I wrenched the transmission mount "ear" out of the way. I did check that a week or two prior to leaving on the trip and it felt fine. I had Jesse from Classic Cruisers lay under the truck with me at the top of Corkscrew Pass and have a look. He grabbed the driveshaft and gave it a shake and the double cardan was moving around close to 1/2". Looking at the EPC, Toyota never offered individual parts for that - the entire double cardan was listed as an assembly. Additionally the u-joints in there are not the standard Toyota ones, they're smaller. The only recourse here is to take it to a local shop and have them modify it to accept some kind of aftermarket u-joints, and even then, would they be able to find any solution for the ball in the middle? I don't know. The long game here is a drive shaft with a single u-joint on either end, and that requires notching the crossmember, something I don't have time for right now. In the meantime, I picked up a good used early front driveshaft from Classic Cruisers on my way home. Thanks Brandon and Jesse for that.
2. Prior to leaving I noticed my K02s had worn quite a bit without me noticing - I spotted it a couple days before leaving. They also have cracks around the sidewalls. It's almost like the tires turned a corner and started aging more rapidly than before. I have about 4mm of tread life left all the way around. After getting home, I noticed they're starting to crack on the tread between the lugs as well. The tires went from being fine to borderline dangerous in a hurry. I have an appointment tomorrow to get new tires installed ... more on that tomorrow, it'll be fun. For what it's worth the PO bought the tires in 2016 or 2018, put about 500 miles on them, and then had to park the truck in his climate-controlled garage due to engine issues. The truck (and tires) remained there until I bought Matilda in 2022. Age may be a factor here. Either way, they need to go.
3. Starting yesterday I have a dull low pitched grumble from the rear end under acceleration/load, and - strangely - when shutting the motor off. @HemiAlex suggested a loose rear pinion nut. Haven't pulled the rear driveshaft to check, but a quick peak underneath shows no leaks (not that the two necessarily go together, but you know, I figured a 3-second look was in order). I did replace that rear u-joint before the trip so hopefully that isn't the issue - that would indicate operator error. The fact that the noise happens when stopped and shutting the motor down makes me think it's just a weird vibration somewhere. I did remove the rear cargo panels when I did the dual battery system so that I could patch in the rear accessory electrical stuff into the second battery. When I put the panels back I didn't put in all the fasteners since I was in a hurry. Maybe it's just the panel vibrating against the body work behind it. I need to find time to dig into this, but all my time has been spent getting caught up at my day job and with Cruiser Trash Parts.
4. I have a belt noise. That was present before the trip and is worse now. It's loudest on start up, but is always there. I think it's coming from the Saginaw steering pump, but again I haven't dug into it. I need to get the stethoscope out ... hopefully it's not the air pump. It really sounds like a bearing noise to me. If it is the Sag, at least that's far less expensive than tracking down a NOS Toyota pump - that will make the Sag modification worthwhile. $80 and a trip to Autozone, as well as an hour of work, and the problem will be solved.
A few issues arose either on the trip or when we returned. Nothing catastrophic that required road- or trail-side repairs, but things that need to be addressed.
1. Front drive shaft double cardan had a ton of play. This was the source of the front end noise in 4WD after I wrenched the transmission mount "ear" out of the way. I did check that a week or two prior to leaving on the trip and it felt fine. I had Jesse from Classic Cruisers lay under the truck with me at the top of Corkscrew Pass and have a look. He grabbed the driveshaft and gave it a shake and the double cardan was moving around close to 1/2". Looking at the EPC, Toyota never offered individual parts for that - the entire double cardan was listed as an assembly. Additionally the u-joints in there are not the standard Toyota ones, they're smaller. The only recourse here is to take it to a local shop and have them modify it to accept some kind of aftermarket u-joints, and even then, would they be able to find any solution for the ball in the middle? I don't know. The long game here is a drive shaft with a single u-joint on either end, and that requires notching the crossmember, something I don't have time for right now. In the meantime, I picked up a good used early front driveshaft from Classic Cruisers on my way home. Thanks Brandon and Jesse for that.
2. Prior to leaving I noticed my K02s had worn quite a bit without me noticing - I spotted it a couple days before leaving. They also have cracks around the sidewalls. It's almost like the tires turned a corner and started aging more rapidly than before. I have about 4mm of tread life left all the way around. After getting home, I noticed they're starting to crack on the tread between the lugs as well. The tires went from being fine to borderline dangerous in a hurry. I have an appointment tomorrow to get new tires installed ... more on that tomorrow, it'll be fun. For what it's worth the PO bought the tires in 2016 or 2018, put about 500 miles on them, and then had to park the truck in his climate-controlled garage due to engine issues. The truck (and tires) remained there until I bought Matilda in 2022. Age may be a factor here. Either way, they need to go.
3. Starting yesterday I have a dull low pitched grumble from the rear end under acceleration/load, and - strangely - when shutting the motor off. @HemiAlex suggested a loose rear pinion nut. Haven't pulled the rear driveshaft to check, but a quick peak underneath shows no leaks (not that the two necessarily go together, but you know, I figured a 3-second look was in order). I did replace that rear u-joint before the trip so hopefully that isn't the issue - that would indicate operator error. The fact that the noise happens when stopped and shutting the motor down makes me think it's just a weird vibration somewhere. I did remove the rear cargo panels when I did the dual battery system so that I could patch in the rear accessory electrical stuff into the second battery. When I put the panels back I didn't put in all the fasteners since I was in a hurry. Maybe it's just the panel vibrating against the body work behind it. I need to find time to dig into this, but all my time has been spent getting caught up at my day job and with Cruiser Trash Parts.
4. I have a belt noise. That was present before the trip and is worse now. It's loudest on start up, but is always there. I think it's coming from the Saginaw steering pump, but again I haven't dug into it. I need to get the stethoscope out ... hopefully it's not the air pump. It really sounds like a bearing noise to me. If it is the Sag, at least that's far less expensive than tracking down a NOS Toyota pump - that will make the Sag modification worthwhile. $80 and a trip to Autozone, as well as an hour of work, and the problem will be solved.
Regarding tires, there is a date code on all tires that reads XXYY with XX being the week and YY being the year of production so 0624 would be manufactured in the 6th week of 2024. Personally, I don't run tires on any of my vehicles that are over 5 years old which usually isn't a problem as I wear them out faster than the 5 year window.
- Thread starter
- #271
Problem solved tomorrow!
- Thread starter
- #272
New shoes
Kenda Klever RT
33 x 9.5 x 15
All hail the One True Pizza Cutter!
Courtesy of Coloradoland Tire (also called Kansasland Tire). The owner @Flatlanderfj40 is a cruiser guy I met at SAS. Great service, great shop.
In other news I discovered this last night…
Which I think was causing the exhaust to contact the frame, giving me the grumbling noise. I decided it wasn’t diff related anyway - it happens when I start and shut down the motor. The hanger on the bellhousing is long gone, as is the hanger behind the muffler. The whole thing needs redone frankly. A problem for future Jim.
A couple Glamour Shotz from [@plainscruiser] on Instagram. He was shooting at SAS. Look at those dogsh1t K02s!
Tuco (The Good, The Bad, The Ugly … not Breaking Bad). Sliding windows coming in handy again and again.
1980s vibes (as the kids say). That’s the 1981 Canadian-spec BJ60 steering wheel for the one-year non-power-steering option. Same as the late 40 Series, but in matching brown.
Kenda Klever RT
33 x 9.5 x 15
All hail the One True Pizza Cutter!
Courtesy of Coloradoland Tire (also called Kansasland Tire). The owner @Flatlanderfj40 is a cruiser guy I met at SAS. Great service, great shop.
In other news I discovered this last night…
Which I think was causing the exhaust to contact the frame, giving me the grumbling noise. I decided it wasn’t diff related anyway - it happens when I start and shut down the motor. The hanger on the bellhousing is long gone, as is the hanger behind the muffler. The whole thing needs redone frankly. A problem for future Jim.
A couple Glamour Shotz from [@plainscruiser] on Instagram. He was shooting at SAS. Look at those dogsh1t K02s!
Tuco (The Good, The Bad, The Ugly … not Breaking Bad). Sliding windows coming in handy again and again.
1980s vibes (as the kids say). That’s the 1981 Canadian-spec BJ60 steering wheel for the one-year non-power-steering option. Same as the late 40 Series, but in matching brown.
I want those tires now. Thanks @CruiserTrash
- Thread starter
- #274
I had to emergency stop today because some bozo ran a stop sign. Jury is still out on wet, winter, or trail driving, but they sure stop good. 10/10 recommend.
- Thread starter
- #275
Today I installed a 4.11 third member out of a 62 into the rear axle of my truck. The front one will probably go in next weekend, and I won’t have a need for 4WD before that. Thanks to @3_puppies for these.
The work wasn’t too difficult. Reinstalling the spider gears, center block, and pin is a little fussy and requires three hands, but it only took 5 minutes. Lifting the third members was the hardest part because they’re pretty hefty. The difference is smallish, but significant. Definitely easier to leave a stop sign - it requires far less clutch action - and second gear pulls up city hills a little better. Worth it.
The most nerve wracking part was swapping my pinion flange over so it could mate to the driveshaft. Pinion preload, the crush sleeve, and gear mesh seems like a dark art to me. I got some consultation from Higgy’s in Arizona and from @CenTXFJ60 and felt comfortable enough to do it. It’s all feel. pull the pinion out as far as it goes, turn the pinion nut on, and feel the top of the crush sleeve. A little tightening past that, then stake it.
I have a slow drip from the lower studs on the diff cover. I might pull the nuts, put a thin smear of FIPG behind them, and retorque. For now a piece of cardboard is doing the job.
The work wasn’t too difficult. Reinstalling the spider gears, center block, and pin is a little fussy and requires three hands, but it only took 5 minutes. Lifting the third members was the hardest part because they’re pretty hefty. The difference is smallish, but significant. Definitely easier to leave a stop sign - it requires far less clutch action - and second gear pulls up city hills a little better. Worth it.
The most nerve wracking part was swapping my pinion flange over so it could mate to the driveshaft. Pinion preload, the crush sleeve, and gear mesh seems like a dark art to me. I got some consultation from Higgy’s in Arizona and from @CenTXFJ60 and felt comfortable enough to do it. It’s all feel. pull the pinion out as far as it goes, turn the pinion nut on, and feel the top of the crush sleeve. A little tightening past that, then stake it.
I have a slow drip from the lower studs on the diff cover. I might pull the nuts, put a thin smear of FIPG behind them, and retorque. For now a piece of cardboard is doing the job.
- Thread starter
- #276
Yeah … gonna have to fix this tomorrow morning. I have a spare gasket and some different sealers to try. I’ll probably lose 1/2 quart overnight at this rate. Photo was taken about 5 minutes after parking. All three bottom studs are leaking.
FSM says cork gasket, dry, 10ftlb. I did the cork gasket, a very thin smear of black FIPG on each side, and 14lb. Honestly I should have stopped at 8ftlb when the cork started squeezing out. I have another cork gasket on hand so maybe tomorrow I should install that one dry … every time I go against the FSM this sort of thing happens. I should know better.
FSM says cork gasket, dry, 10ftlb. I did the cork gasket, a very thin smear of black FIPG on each side, and 14lb. Honestly I should have stopped at 8ftlb when the cork started squeezing out. I have another cork gasket on hand so maybe tomorrow I should install that one dry … every time I go against the FSM this sort of thing happens. I should know better.
We have all been there. The low torque value is counter intuitive so it’s easy to add that extra torque thinking one is doing the right thing. I’d try loosening it up and allow the oil to soak in a bit more, then re torque to factory specifications.
- Thread starter
- #278
Replaced the gasket with a fresh one. No RTV/FIPG. Tightened the bolts by feel and made sure the cork wasn’t squeezing out. No drips!
(Bottom of diff housing is wet from yesterdays oil, no new leaking though)
So the problem is this: too much torque will squeeze the cork and egg the stud holes. Too much torque will also squeeze the cork toward the inside and outside of the sealing surface. Well, the egg shaped hole got squeezed to the inside, allow a path for the oil to travel out, but not the stud, and then leak past the nut. Follow the FSM folks.
(Bottom of diff housing is wet from yesterdays oil, no new leaking though)
So the problem is this: too much torque will squeeze the cork and egg the stud holes. Too much torque will also squeeze the cork toward the inside and outside of the sealing surface. Well, the egg shaped hole got squeezed to the inside, allow a path for the oil to travel out, but not the stud, and then leak past the nut. Follow the FSM folks.
I did the same thing first time I had a diff cover replacement: Black RTV and Cork Gasket and too tight = leak. The RTV soaks into the cork, and as you found out, makes it 'squishy'. The studs that thread into the gear housing do require a little thread sealant, though.
I've since found out that if you want to use a sealant on a cork gasket, you need a non absorbent shellac-type adhesive, like Gasgacinch.
I've since found out that if you want to use a sealant on a cork gasket, you need a non absorbent shellac-type adhesive, like Gasgacinch.
- Thread starter
- #280
I didn’t seal the threads and so far so good. Those are easy nuts to pop off one at a time if need be, though. I didn’t realize a sealant could be absorptive or not - thanks for the tip!
