Weird starting problem need help (1 Viewer)

[CruiserDave]

Ok the other day I removed the battery and battery tray to adjust my steering box. When I returned everything back to normal and went to start it this problem occurs. Turn key to acc powers up everything hear clicking. Turn key all the way to start it KILLS ALL POWER until I remove negative terminal and reset battery. I thought ok fusible link went so I ordered a new one (2 actually). Replaced link same problem. Now I'm not sure where to go next? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ok the other day I removed the battery and battery tray to adjust my steering box. When I returned everything back to normal and went to start it this problem occurs. Turn key to acc powers up everything hear clicking. Turn key all the way to start it KILLS ALL POWER until I remove negative terminal and reset battery. I thought ok fusible link went so I ordered a new one (2 actually). Replaced link same problem. Now I'm not sure where to go next? Any help would be appreciated.

Did you reconnect your ground cables to the fender and the block?

In the process, did you break the battery cables internally at the terminal?

Did you clean the inside and out of the battery post and battery terminal so there is a good clean connection?

Did you tighten the battery clamp PROPERLY?

Do you have shytty battery clamps that have the two bolts on top that clamp the cable into the lead part? If so, get new clamps (mil-spec)

Include a picture of the are so we can criticize everything you live for.

 

[CruiserDave]

I'll take pictures and a short video here in a second. But it's the factory terminals, grounds are all connected and posts are clean.

 

[CruiserDave]

Pictures

 

[BILT4ME]

Pictures

View attachment 3377168

View attachment 3377169

View attachment 3377170

There are TWO sets of connections on that positive cable. Make sure you disassemble BOTH of them, clean them so they are shiny ( including the ring terminals) then put them all back together. Do NOT use dielectric grease on anything during assembly.

That post should be shiny and the inside of that brass clamp should also be shiny. Use a wire based battery post cleaner to get all the crud cleaned out.

Check the connections on the Fusible Links inside that little square box to make sure they are not broken or loose.

Then check continuity with a multimeter.


Oh yeah... Check the voltage on the battery across the two posts. it needs to be 12.5V or HIGHER. 12.5 is the MINIMUM.

 

[CruiserDave]

 

[BILT4ME]

That looks like a low battery to me.

I don't know how long you had the battery out, how much it wass handled, or where you sat it while it was out. These can all affect voltage.

Check the voltage across the posts and report back. Can you jump start it?

 

[CruiserDave]

UPDATE:
OK cleaned the terminals and rings. Disconnected everything and reassembled. Then jump started with wife's car. It now runs fine. Took it for a drive and started a few times when I got home. I'm going to replace negative terminal connector and battery. Its old but not that old and has been on a charger everytime I've had it out of the vehicle.

I want to thank everyone for the tips.

 

[Kernal]

Would be interesting to see what the battery voltage is after it's sat overnight. When you take the old battery in for replacement have them check the voltage (unless you have your own multimeter?).

From the one photo, IMHO, the negative cable doesn't look bad enough to need replacement. FWIW

 

[Shoredreamer]

Check the voltage at the battery when you attempt to crank it over. Bet the battery is tired and when you go to crank it, it kills the battery fully. Same thing happened to me. You can put the battery on a shore charger to keep it on a lifeline or get it tested/buy a new batt.

 

[CruiserDave]

The problem with the negative side is its pinched all the way and can still be moved some. I need new pos and neg anyway since I'll be connecting the winch and lights back up and never liked the way I had it wired before.