No start - weird electrical problem (1 Viewer)

[canman]

A few weeks back I tried to start my 97 LX. Has dual batteries and both were dead after the vehicle had been sitting for a few weeks. Tried charging them and still nothing. So, tried jump starting it. Still no start (just clicking). Should mention at this point, I had sufficient power to operate lights, radio, etc. After trying to jump start it, I threw on the battery charger on my aux battery. While it was plugged in, I stupidly tried to start it. Heard a “pop” and lost all electrical power. No power for lights, windows, radio, etc.
So, winched it back into my garage yesterday. Checked the fusible links, and they were fine. Checked all fuses with a meter and they’re all fine. Isolated the batteries and let them charge overnight on two separate chargers. Hook both batteries back up this morning, and notice wipers working, gauge idiot lights, etc working (key was in acc. position). Thinking, well that’s great and proceed to start the engine. Turn key to start position, hear the same pop noise as before and all dash lights etc go out. No power anywhere. any thoughts?

 

[canman]

Should mention that I just disconnected both batteries and re-connecteded them. Power came back, and again when I turn key to the start position, I hear the pop noise and lose all power. Tried that again, and the pop sounds more like a click. Sounds like it is coming from the starter.

 

[canman]

Had a quick look at the EWD. I’m thinking I’ll replace the fusible links. I did order a spare and have it on hand. Only issue is that during my dual battery install, I modded the FLs and soldered them into a butt connector at one end. Still have the little plastic box with the studs/nuts.

 

[CharlieS]

Maybe simplify the setup to single battery for troubleshooting purposes? I'd try to get it as close as possible to the factory fusible link configuration.

Once you get it starting and steady state, you can reintroduce the dual battery setup and any complications that it may introduce.

 

[canman]

Replaced the FLs and soldered on a ring terminal so I can easily remove it. Same thing. Turn key to start position and everting goes dead. Thinking there is a dead short in the starter and maybe the ECU is sensing that and shutting everything down. A few pics.

FLs before when the ends were soldered into the butt connector.

 

[canman]

After.

 

[Rifleman]

Any chance you still have the factory/port installed alarm system still installed and hooked up?

 

[canman]

Yes. It’s untouched.

 

[Rifleman]

That alarm my be the source of you're problem

 

[canman]

Ok. Thanks. Anyway to bypass the anti-theft ECU?

 

[LongDuck]

I would certainly run down that line on the alarm system, but also look closely at your grounds from the battery and more importantly at your positive lead to the Starter. If there's corrosion in any of these, or the terminals are corroded, it could also cause electrical to work, but not start. Recall that a circuit is a path out and back, so your ground needs to be as stout as your power.

 

[canman]

Tried to reset the Anti-theft ECU. This link said leave the key in the “ON/ACC” position for 30 mins. Didn’t work.

How to Deactivate Toyota Immobilizer? | Rx Mechanic

For some Toyota lovers and owners, one thing they may want to know is how to deactivate Toyota immobilizer

rxmechanic.com

 

[canman]

This vid mentioned jumping terminals 4 & 13 on your OBD2 port and leaving it line that fir at least 30 mins. Had to pull apart my lower dash to get at the OBD2 port as I have it connected to my Autel scan gauge. Once I pulled off the OBD2 port from the Autel connector I noticed there was no pin in the #13 position. So, that was a non-starter.

 

[canman]

Now I’m trying to “drain” one battery because according to this vid, most cars can have all their ECUs reset using this method. Will let it drain for 30 mins, then do the same on the aux battery.

 

[canman]

I do remember back in the day when I was more active on the tech forum, there was a trick using a paper clip to “reset” something using the OB2/diagnostic port in the engine compartment shuch was next to the wiper motor. I haven’t searched mud yet, but google searches don’t come up with anything.

 

[BILT4ME]

I do remember back in the day when I was more active on the tech forum, there was a trick using a paper clip to “reset” something using the OB2/diagnostic port in the engine compartment shuch was next to the wiper motor. I haven’t searched mud yet, but google searches don’t come up with anything.

Yes, you have an OBD2 port on the passenger side below the wiper motor. It most likely has a cover plug on it, then it's full of dielectric grease.

I'd rip out that alarm by the roots. They cause so many issues.

 

[canman]

Not sure if we’re talking same thing. It has the “factory” anti-theft system which is operated by a stand alone ECU. Looking at the EWD, not sure if it can be removed as it is wired into so many things.

 

[BILT4ME]

Not sure if we’re talking same thing. It has the “factory” anti-theft system which is operated by a stand alone ECU. Looking at the EWD, not sure if it can be removed as it is wired into so many things.

If it resides under the driver's seat, yes.

It plugs into the main harness. You remove the plugs on both sides and then plug the two halves of the truck harness into each other.

I ripped mine out after it stranded me at a restaurant.

 

[canman]

If it resides under the driver's seat, yes.

It plugs into the main harness. You remove the plugs on both sides and then plug the two halves of the truck harness into each other.

I ripped mine out after it stranded me at a restaurant.

Ok. Thanks. Will need to look into that.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ok. Thanks. Will need to look into that.

There are about six sets of plugs.

Pull the driver's seat, start at the alarm and work your way down the harness until it's all done.