Watch me rebuild my entire fuel system

[bmorefj40]

OK, thanks...I'll look and see if that's still on the carb...I'll let ya know, prolly be tomorrow, but I may have time to this evening. We gotta get you runnin'...lol

Thanks! Appreciate it. This is probably one of the slower carb rebuild threads out there, but think I'm encountering all possible issues, so this should be a good reference for someone else down the road.

On a high note, decided to crack open the later carb just to peek at the condition. The bowl is definitely in better condition. But what I was surprised to find is a halfway rebuilt carb. Seems like someone opened it up at some point, but gave up half way through and tossed all the parts back in loose. No float or jets, but the rest was there. also, most of the fasteners (on the airhorn at least) were new, so I can give up trying to dip some of mine. Also, power piston was in much better shape. After comparing to mine, now I can see my original was not suitable. The other nice thing was a shiny new Pump Inlet Ball and G-clip. Only real disappointment was no jets, (main or slow).

So, looks like the only things I really need to find now is
1. Pump Connecting Link
2. One Main Jet
3. Inlet Screen- do I need one and if so, where can I source one?
4. Compression Nuts for the inlet/outlet? anyone know if these are a special size or can I source this from the autoparts/home improvement store?
5. Need to double check the condition of my float after it dries. Most of the rust came off, but still could be questionable. Does OEM vs aftermarket matter for this application?

All in all, nothing above is a show stopper, so once I get the bowl dipped, I can start reassembly!!!

 

[bmorefj40]

Comparison of power pistons.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Power piston, float, needle & seat can all be swapped from 78 to 87.

Things that don't swap: boosters, AP pushrod & spring, AP rocker arm, ICS...

 

[fj401978]

It has the #1 (pump arm) on it, but #2 is missing (pump connecting link). The pump arm is shaped different than what is in the diagram, guess that's what Jim was talking about. Sorry I couldn't help ya...good luck, I'm sure someone has to have one, as many of these carbs have been switched for Webers.

 

[bmorefj40]

It has the #1 (pump arm) on it, but #2 is missing (pump connecting link). The pump arm is shaped different than what is in the diagram, guess that's what Jim was talking about. Sorry I couldn't help ya...good luck, I'm sure someone has to have one, as many of these carbs have been switched for Webers.

Thanks for looking. I put up a WTB in the classifieds. I could probably get the jet from almost anyone, but the pump connecting link is going to take some time to track down, but since that is the last part to be assembled, I'm not too worried about finding it this minute. Hope to start reassembling today!

 

[bmorefj40]

Time for some updates.

After posting up in the WTB, I was contacted by a fellow mudder just a few miles north of me. Said he had some carbs laying around and I could pick through them to find the missing parts I needed. Took a quick drive over to meet him last Friday and I have to say I met an amazing dude. He restores FJ40s and has a plethora of parts and vehicles I've never seen before. To say he has a nice pile of spare parts is an understatement. Having been through 17 cruisers in his life, he has some really nice unobtanium. The organization system was also pretty wild. Looks like a pile of junk to the untrained eye, but he can find any part in less than 2 minutes. Fast forward through spending the better part of the morning digging through his shed, another shed, seeing his current projects, and drooling over his 3FE converted FJ40, I had some carb parts in my hand as well as whole bunch of stuff I wasn't planning on finding but will help me immensely as I convert my truck.

So, the more I get into this project, the bigger it is becoming. Switching over to linkage from the cable Weber is going to be a project. Looks like I need a new pedal, all kinds of linkage, more linkage, and just a little bit more linkage. Luckily, Joe was able to hook me up with pretty much everything from pedal to carb with the exception of a few bolts. Big score! But since I have a 9/72 body, I'll have to cut an oval shaped hole in the firewall, which I don't mind doing, but need to confirm the location of the hole. Has anyone done this mod and have a rough idea of how they located the hole?

In addition to linkage parts, I was also able to get the pump connecting link, a few spare jets, 2F air filter, some horn buttons, taillight lens, etc... (I did a little shopping while I was there).

I'll post up pics when I get to the rebuild. Right now, I'm soaking the parts I got and hope to get back to this and have a fully reassembled carb this Friday.

 

[Pin_Head]

Sounds like you really scored.

have a natty boh!

 

[fj401978]

Awesome...I'd love to find a place like that near me, it's like a play ground for adult 'kids'



Skip

 

[bmorefj40]

Ready to get back to reassembly today. Just want to double check some numbers with guys before I button everything up, especially since I cobbled parts together from various years. I want to make sure that these parts will all play together nicely.

Primary
Stamped number on carb body ring- 31
Main Jet- 144, came with a 136, but reading suggests the 144 would be better choice
Slow Jet- 75
Venturi- stamped with a number 2 on top (double ring)

Secondary
Stamped number on carb body ring- 35
Main Jet- I have 171 and a 230, which would be better
Slow Jet- 75
Venturi- stamped with a 1 on top (double ring)

Also, FSM suggests a float level of 7.1mm measured from carb body flange when hanging(without gasket), but I've seen some posts where people have used numbers as low as 4mm. Does anybody have a confirmed height that will have the fuel resting in the middle of the bubble?

 

[bmorefj40]

Ugghhh. I think i'm ready to throw in the towel on this one. Been trying throughout the day whenever I had a few minutes to get the linkages correct, but I think this might be too 'bastardized' to work properly. So, I started out with using the carb body from the 80-87, since mine was rusted beyond salvation. That swap was pretty straight forward. The reassembly of the carb also went together without too much fuss, but the linkages are driving me crazy.

1. I was missing the plate with the ball joint on it that connects to the linkage for the gas pedal and the linkage for the pump connecting arm. So, I swapped in one from one of the other carbs I had. Not a big deal and was able to connect the pump arm again. But this change also forced me to swap out the throttle positioner connecting link and fast idle connecting link. Looks like it should work, but having someone reassure me would be great.

2.My original choke shaft was very bent and so I had to swap out the choke shaft from another carb. the clocking of the end plate on the linkage end was close, but still a few degrees off. To compensate for this, I used the choke breaker from the other carb and it linkage. Seems to work through the range of motion and some vac on the breaker will pull the choke back open. So, I think that is ok.

3. The other issue that this caused was that the previous choke breaker had two linkage points instead of one (one for the choke breaker and the other linkage went to the throttle positioner. The new(er) choke breaker only has one point of engagement, so that forces me to also use the older choke breaker as well to connect straight to the throttle positioner. Therefore, I have 2 vac devices, one to actuate the choke breaker, and the other to actuate the throttle positioner, would that work?

I'm not afraid Frankenstein this carb together, but I want to make sure that I can still use this set up reliably. Or have I gone too far off the beaten path and its now time waive the white flag, buy a trollhole carb that will work with my existing cable linkage, and call it a day?

Pics to follow

 

[bmorefj40]

 

[Pin_Head]

The linkage is different for different years, so mixing and matching them is going to cause problems. Try the links from the 77 first and it it doesn't fit, you may have to customize it by bending it to make it fit. Use the pictures on SOR to show how the original linkage fits.

http://www.sor.com/cat042d.sor

 

[bmorefj40]

eureka! Well, I think taking a step away for a little bit and coming back to it helped me. plus staring at the link that pinhead posted made me realize a few things. I was able to get another choke shaft from one of the carbs loaned to me for the jets. (I'll owe him some beers for poaching that part) That solved the linkage issues for the choke breaker and throttle positioner. Next, I realized that I was missing parts from the original linkage which is why I turned to getting parts from the other carb. But it was just one part in particular, the hammer shaped piece. I tried getting it from the other carb but it wouldn't fit (too big of a bushing on it), so then I swapped over the whole assembly which got me into a bigger mess. I went back to the original configuration and borrowed yet another piece from the loaned carb. this was about an 1/8" too small, but some washers next to it took up the slack and I think I finally have a reassembled carb! just need to put the retaining clips on and then check tolerances of the openings of the primary and secondary and set base adjustments per FSM.

Next up pedal linkage. I started soaking parts in some Metal Rescue (from Home Depot). Its a little pricey ($25/gal), but it works amazingly well on the few parts that I've soaked so far and much easier to work with.

 

[bmorefj40]

Missing piece that caused my whole day headache. Note to self- next time I rebuild a carb, make sure it comes from a running engine!

 

[bmorefj40]

Almost ready for an install day(s). Just need to round up a few random nuts and bolts. Looks like I'll be able to do the fuel system one day and the carb install on another day since I still have figure out the whole linkage system from scratch.

 

[bmorefj40]

Well, nothing like waiting a year for some free time, but finally got around to it. This was much more involved than I thought it would ever be, So, far, I have 24 hours of wrenching into this and I haven't even gotten to the carb and pedal linkage yet. I'll post pics later today, but thought I would detail what I had to go through.

Issue #1. Remove old seats to access fuel tank. Sounds simple, but the PO thought it would be a good idea to weld aftermarket seat rails to stock brackets, and then weld the stock brackets to the seat posts and mounts. Carefully using a grinding wheel, I was able to cut out one seat at a time, then grind off all the old bracket to salvage the seat posts and mounts that connect to the body. Then I was able to rip out all the old carpet and give the body a good scrubbing, since it hasn't been done in the 10 years that I've owned it.

Issue #2. Remove old tank- easy. But then I had to replace all the rubber lines along the way to the fuel pump and install a return line that didn't exist, plus install the evap system with all the required hoses. Also, needed to modify the retaining straps since they were too short. (guess the originals were mod'ed for the poly tank and I had to make a bracket to lengthen them)

Issue #3. Old seats are now toast, so I replaced with new bestop trailmax II front seats to match the rear bench I put in previously. Had to fabricate new mounts to attach to the original seat brackets. This wasn't too bad, just a lot of trial and error to get everything to play nice and not interfere with new stock tank and my sub box under the driver seat. Then the obligatory, "while I'm in there", to prep and paint all the old brackets, replace some hardware, and redo the wiring for all the accessories like the cd player, amp, speakers, lights, etc...

Issue #4. And this where I'm stuck now, my old fuel pump outlet a barbed end that doesn't seem to swap over to the new one. It has what I believe to be a M13 x 1.5 fitting and I can't locally find a compression nut to match it. I rigged it for now just to see if the truck would run and there are no other leaks in the system, but I won't take it on the road with that set-up. Anyone have a few that they can spare? I need the same to match fittings on the Aisan carb when I swap that out as well.

 

[bmorefj40]

Ahhh, all cleaned up and new comfy seats....

 

[bmorefj40]

I really have to stop with the 'might as well' mentality. I feel like I'm six bolts away from saying 'the heck with it, going to do a frame off'.

Added four 3pt seat belts and cleaned up some more wiring. Then touched up the paint on the back half of the roll cage.

Just need to source those compression nuts and enjoy this rig for the summer...

 

[FJ40Jim]

Fuel pump outlet is not barbed until the 79-newer crimped-together pump comes out.

The M13x1.5 nut is used on all Cruiser fuel line fittings, as well as the air injection rail. Toyota still sells them new for a couple bucks.

 

[bmorefj40]

Thanks all. dealership by my house couldn't find them. Called another one about an hour away and they were able to source the compression nuts almost instantly. Picked up some 5/16" brake line and brass olives at napa and hand bent a temp fuel line. I'll need to make up some new ones when I swap over the aisan carb. So, far no leaks in the lines and the shakedown run went well.

Then I went to fill the tank for the first time. I filled it slowly and it auto shutoff. After about 10 minutes, I had a puddle of gas in top of the tank- same issue I had with the poly tank. It's a brand new oem tank and new gasket, should it leak like that? The bolts holding sender are pretty tight, I don't want to torque them down any more since they are tiny and I'm afraid of snapping them off. Should I have used some sort of sealant when I installed the sender?

Also, it's great to have a working fuel gauge again! I highly recommend it if you haven't tried it yet. Kids were also happy to be back in the cruiser when I picked them up from school. They made me promise no more work on the truck until the winter.