SOLVED: What did I mess up? (Fuel pump rebuild, won’t start) (1 Viewer)

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Took the pump apart. Made sure the diaphragm was sealed. It had a tear on the outer portion where a screw would go. Not sure if that would cause a pressure failure, but have on Ron the way for good measure. Reseated the spring. No blockages in the pump. Still won’t start. Gas isn’t even making it up the first glass filter.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Vacuum leak at the tear. Maybe a dab of fuel proof rtv on both sides to seal it up.
Click to expand...
That is my plan for tomorrow evening. I even tried talking nice to it….and she just talked dirty back to me…and not the good dirty.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
$10 electric fuel pump on Amoron.
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Ordered an electric pump for backup and at least get it running. What do you tie the positive wire to…anything hot when the ignition is on?
 
I use the power to the coil.
Make fuel transfer units with the pump - beats holding up 5 gallon cans
Water Proof switch, fused and filtered. 5' draft 20' delivery from a spool of gas hose. The 12' cig lighter cord will plug in or clamp to the battery. Will also do diesel. Have several spare filters as water will stop them up until they dry out in the sun..

PICT0059 (1).JPG
 
igotta40 said:
It sounds to me like 1) your pump diaphragm is disconnected from the lever. 2) The leaking gasoline is another problem.
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I checked the diaphragm and it is connected to the lever. I triple checked. Not getting a gas leak anymore…but I haven’t been able to get it to run longer than a splash of gas in the carb.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
I use the power to the coil.
Make fuel transfer units with the pump - beats holding up 5 gallon cans
Water Proof switch, fused and filtered. 5' draft 20' delivery from a spool of gas hose. The 12' cig lighter cord will plug in or clamp to the battery. Will also do diesel. Have several spare filters as water will stop them up until they dry out in the sun..

View attachment 3826991
Click to expand...
I guess worst case if I can’t get the mechanical pump to work once the new diaphragm comes in I can just use a block off plate and use the electrical pump moving forward. I just think the mechanical pump looks so cool…but doesn’t matter if it looks cool if you can’t drive it.
 
sleepycruiser said:
I checked the diaphragm and it is connected to the lever. I triple checked. Not getting a gas leak anymore…but I haven’t been able to get it to run longer than a splash of gas in the carb.
Click to expand...
Are your check valves oriented correctly? Is there crap in one of the valves? Are the inlet and outlet chambers properly isolated from each other?
 
73FJ40 said:
Are your check valves oriented correctly? Is there crap in one of the valves? Are the inlet and outlet chambers properly isolated from each other?
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Yes, I made sure the valves were oriented the same. No crap in any valves. Chambers are isolated. It’s weird.
 
sleepycruiser said:
Yes, I made sure the valves were oriented the same. No crap in any valves. Chambers are isolated. It’s weird.
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Assuming "oriented the same" means the same as original? Of course, suction valve lets fuel flow to the diaphragm, discharge valve lets fuel flow from the diaphragm.

What about supply line to the pump. If you pressurize the tank at the filler neck with a vacuum hooked up to blow, does fuel flow to the pump inlet?

Another test: Use engine vacuum to suck fuel from tank, through pump, into carburetor. Block off the carb throat with stiff cardboard, crank the engine

Normal engine vacuum is more than enough to suck the fuel through the entire system if the valves are correctly oriented and the fuel path is unblocked.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
I use the power to the coil.
Make fuel transfer units with the pump - beats holding up 5 gallon cans
Water Proof switch, fused and filtered. 5' draft 20' delivery from a spool of gas hose. The 12' cig lighter cord will plug in or clamp to the battery. Will also do diesel. Have several spare filters as water will stop them up until they dry out in the sun..

View attachment 3826991
Click to expand...
What pump did you use? This is a sweet setup
 
73FJ40 said:
Assuming "oriented the same" means the same as original? Of course, suction valve lets fuel flow to the diaphragm, discharge valve lets fuel flow from the diaphragm.

What about supply line to the pump. If you pressurize the tank at the filler neck with a vacuum hooked up to blow, does fuel flow to the pump inlet?

Another test: Use engine vacuum to suck fuel from tank, through pump, into carburetor. Block off the carb throat with stiff cardboard, crank the engine

Normal engine vacuum is more than enough to suck the fuel through the entire system if the valves are correctly oriented and the fuel path is unblocked.
Click to expand...
Yes, oriented the same is as original. I took before and after pics to make sure.

Haven’t tried to pressurize (my vacuum doesn’t do that) from the tank side, but I did clear all lines, took them off and checked to make sure nothing was blocking. I’m going to do that again once the new diaphragm comes in.

Is there any possibility that the pump lever inside the engine isn’t being engaged? I did put the spring on the lever and I only see one way for it to go in. I put my finger all around the inside of the hole where the pump mounts and felt a round mechanism above the hole. I assume that is what hits the lever.
 
I got everything on fleabay or Amoron to make the transfer pumps. I actually reversed the hoses to draw from the tank on my F150 and hook the other end up to carb plugged into the cig lighter and drove home when the mechanical fuel pump failed. Took less than 5 minutes and a swiss army pocket knife to do the task.

tape, solder/connectors/shrink wrap insulation
 
sleepycruiser said:
I checked the diaphragm and it is connected to the lever. I triple checked. Not getting a gas leak anymore…but I haven’t been able to get it to run longer than a splash of gas in the carb.
Click to expand...
Personal anecdote- many years ago I rebuilt mine and afterwards had starting & running problems. I found out that monkeying around removing & reattaching the outlet pipe to the carburetor had dislodged rust bits from the inside walls of the pipe, that accumulated in the screen at the carb float bowl inlet. I think that your problem is something simple like that. Just go carefully through the system, you will find the problem.

All that being said, you could go to all the bother of putting an electric pump in and have the same problem.
 
igotta40 said:
Personal anecdote- many years ago I rebuilt mine and afterwards had starting & running problems. I found out that monkeying around removing & reattaching the outlet pipe to the carburetor had dislodged rust bits from the inside walls of the pipe, that accumulated in the screen at the carb float bowl inlet. I think that your problem is something simple like that. Just go carefully through the system, you will find the problem.

All that being said, you could go to all the bother of putting an electric pump in and have the same problem.
Click to expand...
I am going to hook up the electrical pump close to the carb and see if I can get fuel all the way through…if I can it’s gotta be the mechanical pump I think. If it doesn’t pull anything I have a line problem. Driving me bonkers at this point.
 
Hooked up the electrical pump right before the carb to see if it would run. I left everything else in line, including the mechanical pump. It runs with the electrical pump fine…but after I turn the electrical pump off it dies after about 60 seconds. So I guess that means the mechanical pump has an issue somewhere.
 
One thing I did notice is that the glass bowl filter was all the way full even with the electrical pump fine pump turned on and the 40 running. Should I top that filter bowl off and then see if the mechanical pump would work?

No weeping from the mechanical pump though while everything was running….so that should mean the diaphragm is sealed?
 
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sleepycruiser said:
One thing I did notice is that the glass bowl filter was all the way full even with the electrical pump fine pump turned on and the 40 running. Should I top that filter bowl off and then see if the mechanical pump would work?

No weeping from the mechanical pump though while everything was running….so that should mean the diaphragm is sealed?
Click to expand...
Have a pic of your pump?
 
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