Watch me rebuild my entire fuel system (1 Viewer)

[fj401978]

The kits to rebuild these carbs are fairly cheap- http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/cart.php, http://www.fjparts.com/77-78-land-cruiser-fj40-55-carburetor-carb-kit-p-459.html, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02447_1276398_2068&pt=02447&ppt=C0359

The 21100-61024 carb actually came on a '77-'80, but will work on your '75 2F.

 

[bmorefj40]

I read that there are different brands of rebuild kits (keyster, filko, etc) Are they all the same or is there a better name to look for?

 

[edwjmcgrath]

I can't speak to the differences between brands, but the one I bought did not have the secondary diaphragm. I had to buy that separately, so watch out for that.

 

[bmorefj40]

Ok, good advice. I'll keep an eye out for a 'full' rebuild kit.
So, I just spent some quality time with the FSM and watching PinHead's videos. Definitely something I could tackle. After completing a front disc and power steering conversion, I have confidence to rebuild a carb, but since I don't know of the operating condition prior to me, I'm a little concerned about all the linkages being correct. One of my arms looks bent and I have no idea how it is supposed to go(Can it just be bend back into shape without too much harm?). Therefore, sending this out to the pros might be better solution.
However, I'm intrigued at the challenge of doing it myself. I might get a rebuild kit and a gallon of carb dip and give it a shot just for fun. I have a "working" weber on it now, so I can still drive it in the meantime. If it doesn't go well, I'll box it up and send it out. Will post up pictures of my concerns and see if anyone can see anything that looks too bad to fix on my own.

 

[bmorefj40]

Hmmm, rusty

Is this arm supposed to contact here?

What's this for? I don't see it in my fsm

Yup, that fell out when I move the other arms. Is this too far gone?

 

[bertsulli]

It will look a lot better after you dip the parts. Just remember not to dip anything made of plastic, rubber or the solenoid.

You can get a good pic of the linkages here: http://www.sor.com/cat042d.sor by clicking on the Carburetor Identifier tab. Looks to me like that's a 77-78 Federal.

Another thing you'll need to be aware of because you have a 2F is the fuel return line. It's hard to tell from your pics, but it looks like both of those carbs have a fuel return line port.

I used the keyster kit when I rebuilt my 9/72 carb. Very happy with it.

You'll want to pick up a FSM for 77-78 when you rebuild that carb. Most of them are available for download in the FAQs.

 

[bmorefj40]

Well, instead of just staring at these carbs in front of me, I decided to jump right in and tear one apart to see just how tough it would be to get apart and see how complicated it would be to put back together. I chose to do the 21100-61024 since that would most likely be the one I would use, plus it was in way worse shape and may help someone else later on if they are trying to figure out if they're carb is salvageable. If I can save this one, which looks like it came out of the bottom of a lake, then anything is possible. Overall, it was easier than I thought to take apart (we'll see how reassembly goes...)

Here's a list of my concerns. If anyone knows that some of these would be a deal breaker for a rebuild, please chime in.
1. Pump Connecting Link Missing- That was step 1 in the FSM, so I didn't get off to a good start. Both carbs were missing this part
2. Float had a metal bracket around it that I didn't see in the FSM and it was heavily rusted and looks pretty bad (don't know if I could reassemble without this).
3.Power Piston was almost unrecognizable compared to the FSM
4.Choke valve Plate screws broke off. both of the heads pretty much fell off as soon as I touched them with the tip of the screw driver
5. Pump inlet ball and clip were non-existent. However, that area was heavily covered in debris and rust so the ball may still be done there. After I dip it, I may find it hiding down there. I found what looked to be the remains of the clip. It looked like a "c" instead of a "G"
6. AAP- didn't have one. Is that necessary for a non-smog 75 2F? Also, that means I didn't have the aap check ball either
7.Secondary Diaphragm was toast, so I would need that for a rebuild.
8. An extra sensor near the base was there. I don't know what it does or if I need it going forward
9.Jets are shot and I can't tell what size is in there. Had a really hard time getting one out and it got mangled, so I would need to order new ones
10. RUST- its everywhere inside this thing. Even with my organization system that adds some extra time to the teardown, I really had a tough time with almost each and every screw. Probably took me two hours to take it apart and label everything. I think if I didn't have to fight so much with it, would have been way under an hour.

Pics to follow

 

[bmorefj40]

Step 1- get the work area set up

Not looking to good in there

Must have come off a 2f in a submarine

Almost there

What is that bracket and is it necessary?

 

[bmorefj40]

Pump inlet ball missing might still be in carb

random sensor not in my fsm

This is after I got most of the crud knocked out

Fully torn apart and ready for dipping if this thing is salvageable. All small parts labeled and taped down so they don't roll away.

 

[fj401978]

Dude, now THAT is 'organization'! Yes sir, there sure is a lot of rust in there, whew! You can get a new float, I got one for mine...GP Sorensen part # 779-8031. Good job on taking that sucker apart...and good luck on the rebuild!

Skip

 

[Pin_Head]

Did you get that carb out of the Inner Harbor? It looks like it has been sleeping with the blue crabs.
It will be interesting to see how it cleans up.

Natty Boh

 

[FJ40Jim]

Quick notes:
61024 is federal, low altitude 1978 2F.
61142 is 85-87 USA FJ60.

Neither one is a bolt-in on a F engine. F aircleaner won't seal on top, fuel line entry is different, 61024 has fuel return, 61142 has different choke cable end...

FWIW, a 70-72 cable throttle F carb is an easy install.

 

[bmorefj40]

@pin-head. It def looks like it sat submerged in water or rained on for long periods of time.

@FJ40Jim. Thanks for the notes. The block in my truck looks like it came from 75, so It should be a 2f. either of these should still work, right? My stock air cleaner is long gone in favor of an autozone special. And I need to source a 2f one. I currently have a weber so my choke cable is just hanging in the engine bay- not sure if it's any good. Plus the weber uses a cable and the aisan uses a linkage for throttle, correct? I may have to sort that out too before making the switch.

This project is getting bigger and bigger. This looks like a two part series. Fuel from tank to pump and then pump through carb

 

[bmorefj40]

So, is it ok to assume that the AAP is not necessary?

 

[bmorefj40]

where are you guys buying your rebuild kits that come with the secondary diaphragm and the power piston? also, any recommendations on where to get new jets?

 

[bmorefj40]

Some goodies got delivered over the last few days. Thanks mudders for the quick shipping.

Carb parts currently getting dipped a few at a time. This could take a while. The prescribed 20 minute sessions didn't do a whole lot.

 

[bertsulli]

call up Kurt and Cruiser Outfitters. That's where I got my keyster kit. The kit should come with jets. I'm not sure about the power piston though. Looks like he sells secondary diaphrams as well.

http://cruiseroutfitters.com/engineparts.html

 

[bmorefj40]

I ended up ordering the Keyster and the Hygrade kit, since I needed the diaphragm from the one and the jets from the other. As long as I can salvage my fuel float and find a linkage for cheap, I should be done with the bulk of parts ordering other than some misc fittings and clamps.

 

[Pin_Head]

I have some spare parts for that model that I would be willing to trade for Utz potato chips or peach buns.

 

[bmorefj40]

That's a deal!