Was deal thread, now TJM locker install thread
- Thread starter ih8everything
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Sounds like an installer that is completely clueless and out of there sphere of knowledge and experience zone to me. Just for starters: How could they ask you to pay for an install when they have not even tested the functionality? (Seriously WTF?) Definitely sounds like a wiring and air leak test issue. The worst part is that any installer who has the nerve to ask you to pay for an incorrect install is going to be difficult to find a resolution with. They are clearly not very experienced or professional. So what now? They want you to take it home and trouble shoot it, tell them how to fix it and then pay them to fix there effing s***e work?
@shanester Looking closer at the pictures pretty sure your solenoids are backwards I doubt the relief valve should face the compressor where you can't actually use it.
Please PM me your address and your choice of beer (Seriously)
Everything is now working as it should!
To the shops defense, I'm the one who did all the wiring to save some money. What I don't like is that they gave the car back and it was completely dysfunctional, and they didn't warn me when I left and that my bill was almost double what I was quoted.
I'm a happy camper now. The lockers engage with about one tire rotation and the compressor kicks off the way it should when it's pressurized.
Huge thanks to @savirc
I posted about the solenoid direction earlier- looking at your manifold it appears that you do have them plumbed correctly-or at least how TJM USA confirmed with me.
After you switch the locker on, if your compressor keeps running either the solenoid is backwards, or you have an airleak at the fittings somewhere-
You said the compressor shuts off on the front locker and it also releases air when you shut the locker off, assume you have that solenoid installed correctly, and appearance is installed similarly for the rear. Make sure the wiring is the same.
So, use some soapy water on all the fittings to check for leaks on the rear locker, and inspect the front locker line for kink or solenoid for blockage on the fittings.
As I recommended before- contact TJM To get some guidance. TJM USA is in San Diego: that's where you live right? Drive over there dude.
After you switch the locker on, if your compressor keeps running either the solenoid is backwards, or you have an airleak at the fittings somewhere-
You said the compressor shuts off on the front locker and it also releases air when you shut the locker off, assume you have that solenoid installed correctly, and appearance is installed similarly for the rear. Make sure the wiring is the same.
So, use some soapy water on all the fittings to check for leaks on the rear locker, and inspect the front locker line for kink or solenoid for blockage on the fittings.
As I recommended before- contact TJM To get some guidance. TJM USA is in San Diego: that's where you live right? Drive over there dude.
I would remove the pressure switch and t in a air pressure gauge. The switch should shut the compressor off when the off pressure is reached. Have someone flip the engagement switches back and forth and see if the solenoids are releasing air. The nut on the top comes off and u can take them apart. A little lube such as air tool oil may help them work better. If not u may end to get some decent solenoids. They aren't expensive. The solenoid I use cost about 30 bucks.
Too large a file, it worked and it is quick.
@CMAK- Looks great!
Checking the orientation of the soleniod monted to your compressor manifold which indicates the small pressure relief button is facing toward the manifold. Wondering if that set up is working for you?
This setup is working fine, it can also be oriented 90 degree and parallel to the manifold. Neither positions are contacted by the hood liner. The gold filter on the top of the solenoid blows free air until you turn on the solenoid then the air is directed out the black elbow and the locker piston.
Wednesday, I take the hundy into the shop to get the locker installed. I cannot wait to find some terrain where the front locker is needed. I also feel that the stouter diff will allow me a bit more leeway with the skinny pedal.
Parts is Parts ! It's dragging out a bit because this little thing or that little thing needs to come in........
Be sure to have a collection of the shims handy. The instructions say fit it with tin spacers and then order the right ones..........that is what we did. I figure what's a few days when it's gonna be in there for 100,000 miles, so do it right.
How many times will I get this look, once I hope.
Out with the old
Bonus replacement steering rack bushing (over the rack one)
Shot of the diff side axle
Be sure to have a collection of the shims handy. The instructions say fit it with tin spacers and then order the right ones..........that is what we did. I figure what's a few days when it's gonna be in there for 100,000 miles, so do it right.
How many times will I get this look, once I hope.
Out with the old
Bonus replacement steering rack bushing (over the rack one)
Shot of the diff side axle
Test drive was a success. I was able to engage the front diff in snowy dirt area nearby and feel/spin two tires a bit. Cool! 
I drove on clean pavement in 4 low and found it was really a challenge to turn into the driveway locked up.
Note, that I first installed the air fittings in reverse. This photo shows the correct orientation for the tjm solenoid fitting. Key points, there is a little button on the air out side and the electrical wires come out the same side. If you do it wrong it will not release the air with the power off.
Also I had enough rubber hose to run it up along the diff breather hose all the way to the solenoid with just a tiny length of the poly hose needed. I felt this was more heat resistant and durable approach.
I drove on clean pavement in 4 low and found it was really a challenge to turn into the driveway locked up. Note, that I first installed the air fittings in reverse. This photo shows the correct orientation for the tjm solenoid fitting. Key points, there is a little button on the air out side and the electrical wires come out the same side. If you do it wrong it will not release the air with the power off.
Also I had enough rubber hose to run it up along the diff breather hose all the way to the solenoid with just a tiny length of the poly hose needed. I felt this was more heat resistant and durable approach.
Applaud you for taking on the set up of the 3rd and install. I'm paying a pro to do that, it's one thing I do not have the developed skill or tools for.
Thanks for posting the solenoid orientation. I talked to TJM USA and they told me opposite of that, and I felt that was not correct, so contacted the home office in Australia and the said as you installed pressure release button facing out.
My install is scheduled a couple of weeks from now. I installed the compressor and plumbed my air hose back to the diff and tied it off. I thought of rubber hose as an insulator but used 1/4" split corrugated wire loom over the nylon air hose to protect it. Prob not necessary but made me feel better. Line routing followed the rear a/c lines from engine compartment then down the PS frame rail away from exhaust to brake lines and diff.
Thanks for posting the solenoid orientation. I talked to TJM USA and they told me opposite of that, and I felt that was not correct, so contacted the home office in Australia and the said as you installed pressure release button facing out.
My install is scheduled a couple of weeks from now. I installed the compressor and plumbed my air hose back to the diff and tied it off. I thought of rubber hose as an insulator but used 1/4" split corrugated wire loom over the nylon air hose to protect it. Prob not necessary but made me feel better. Line routing followed the rear a/c lines from engine compartment then down the PS frame rail away from exhaust to brake lines and diff.
You give me too much credit, I was able to take photos of the diff on my mech's bench that day. They did a nice job.
Also I read number one air locker fail is due to melted hose.....we both addressed that.
