Warn 8274 winch install questions (1 Viewer)

[TEakins]

I bought a used Warn 8274 to put on my FJ40. I bought a zinc roller unit and a bumper with the mount. The winch came with a cable guide plate. Is this plate something I need? Does it go inside the bumper to feed the rollers or is it redundant?

My second question is how to lift the winch to the bumper by myself. I am 71 yrs old, had extensive back surgery in the past year and can only lift about 30 lbs right now. I have a manual chain lift, but no practical way to attach it to the finished ceiling in my garage. My floor and bottle jacks won't lift the winch high enough either. My brother-in-law the engineer suggested building a sawhorse about 7 feet high to mount the chain lift. I guess that is what I will do unless my comrades here have a better suggestion. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

[Travis Kinney]

That cable guide plate is if you are using synthetic winch line. You would use the roller assembly if you are using steel cable. To lift it I would ask a neighbor. Someone is sure to help and be grateful that they could offer a hand.

The bolt holes on that plate will probably line right up with the holes on the bumper. Paint in the but trying to hold a nut on there to bolt down but it's what I did.

 

[charliemeyer007]

+1 for ask some neighbors or friends for a hand. I once used some firewood rounds to raise up some industrial shelf supports with a section of angle iron bolted to the supports. A comealong lifted the engine/tranny/transfer out and back in. I have a very nice A frame now - still need to push the rig back away from the assembly.

For a winch, you could screw a couple of 2x4 to the wall, then screw in place a couple of 2x4 across the top of your secured uprights. Attach your chain lift to the cross units. Lift the winch, the move your rig forward so you can lower the winch in place.

That hawse looks to rough to use as is with synthetic rope as is. It needs to be glass smooth to not abrade the rope.

 

[405]

I used a couple floor jacks and a flat sheet of wood to lift my 8274 into position.

 

[aging fleet]

@TEakins, not sure where you are in the city, but I can swing by and give you a hand lifting if that would help.

 

[60 40]

Plus one for getting a hand.

I suspect you could build a sled for the winch and a ramp of appropriate angle and maneuver it up little by little but still might need a hand with final placement.

Also I have a cat that looks like yours and it likes stalking around and through my green 40 as well. But back to Tech, show us the winch!

 

[pb4ugo]

Do you have an air compressor? Would deflating the tires be helpful?

 

[TheHardWay]

This worked for me:

I did this a couple years ago - when I was your age

 

[Wasatch Jay]

@TEakins, not sure where you are in the city, but I can swing by and give you a hand lifting if that would help.

Classy. Very Classy!

What a kind and generous offer to help a fellow 'Mudder in need.

 

[pbgbottle]

That cable guide plate as you called it, is the original Warn one from years ago. It was used with the steel cable , that one would destroy a synthetic cable I would think. I still have the same one. I have switched to a roller one now (fairlead) I still use the steel cable on my winch.
Like others have said ask for a helping hand. And no you won’t need the guide plate if you have bought a new roller one.

 

[ducktapeguy]

If you have a couple of ladders and a 4x4 you can create a small gantry to lift it into position. Even a 2x4 would probably work, without a steel cable the winch isn't that heavy especially if you take the motor off first. But if you can find a friend to hold it in place for 5 minutes that's a lot easier.

 

[TEakins]

@TEakins, not sure where you are in the city, but I can swing by and give you a hand lifting if that would help.

I am beyond grateful for your offer. I am in the Hilltop. I am getting ahead of myself here a bit. I need to clean up the winch's

rust and oxidation, remount the control box on the motor, and figure out which plug goes on what post. The clamshell piece that is the right side of the winch - should I coat it in grease? Will I toast this thing if I hook it up wrong? I don't even know if it works yet.

 

[pb4ugo]

Here's a great thread. You can make it looking like new if you want. There's a lot parts available. Follow the links too.

My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....

Bought this Warn 8274 new in 1983 and have been using it pretty hard the last 24 years. Recently I decided to split the case, change the oil, and install fill and drain plugs (something I’ve been meaning to do for years). As you can see…it was in dire need of some TLC, but it was still...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[charliemeyer007]

You need to find the manual for it. Cleaning contacts and checking the wires with a VOM is important prior to hooking it up to a battery - 100's of amps can really fry stuff quickly - letting out the magic smoke is watching money burn if you are lucky otherwise it can burn down the rig or the house.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

First throw away that rusty hawse fairlead. While you're at it I would throw away the steel cable, clean up and smooth the drum, and install a synthetic winch line, which will be far safer and will also instantly take about 18-20 pounds off the winch's weight, AND make it easier on you when you have to pull cable for a recovery. Your roller fairlead will be perfect for a synthetic line; don't let anyone tell you otherwise. However, if you use the steel cable first on the roller fairlead then you'll probably need a new fairlead if you switch to synthetic line later, as the steel will abrade the rollers and abrasion is the enemy of synthetic line.

 

[TEakins]

First throw away that rusty hawse fairlead. While you're at it I would throw away the steel cable, clean up and smooth the drum, and install a synthetic winch line, which will be far safer and will also instantly take about 18-20 pounds off the winch's weight, AND make it easier on you when you have to pull cable for a recovery. Your roller fairlead will be perfect for a synthetic line; don't let anyone tell you otherwise. However, if you use the steel cable first on the roller fairlead then you'll probably need a new fairlead if you switch to synthetic line later, as the steel will abrade the rollers and abrasion is the enemy of synthetic line.

Thanks for this. Good info to know.

 

[too tall]

That cable guide plate as you called it, is the original Warn one from years ago. It was used with the steel cable , that one would destroy a synthetic cable I would think. I still have the same one. I have switched to a roller one now (fairlead)
Like others have said ask for a helping hand. And no you won’t need the guide plate if you have bought a new roller one.

Normal Hawse fairleads as the one pictured are perfectly fine for synthetic line. Not sure where you got your info but I have been running a regular steel hawse fairlead for years with synthetic line. No issues whatsoever.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

Normal Hawse fairleads as the one pictured are perfectly fine for synthetic line. Not sure where you got your info but I have been running a regular steel hawse fairlead for years with synthetic line. No issues whatsoever.

I think all he meant was that that particular trashed and rusty fairlead would destroy a synthetic line. Clean hawse fairleads are indeed fine for synthetic line, but roller fairleads are better.

 

[too tall]

I still disagree. Clean up the edge and run it. Not a fan of roller fairleads and synthetic line.

 

[rlong]

re: physical install: Prior to my back surgery I bought an air over hydraulic table (had been wresting a NV4500 and a few transfer cases. I liked that i can line up hight w/ the bed or bench and slide on and off.

After surgery.. well I got this.. it was over one-half million dollars! But came with a 2,400 sf steel building..well and the house.

Never lifting much again.. priceless (actually)